LED Compatable Flasher Relay

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AthenaJake
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#16

Post by AthenaJake »

Did purchase the Tridon Stant EP28 3 prong flasher unit. it is golden! I have heard they let the self-canceling turn signals continue working. I know it works with lower loads. Because it is working now with both front turn signals removed.
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#17

Post by shoe »

Yup I purchased one from NAPA and it just doesn't seem to work. Here is what I tried.

Flasher Front Rear Works With Resister*
---------------------------------------------------------------
Stock Incand Incand Y N/A
Stock LED Incand Y N/A
Stock Icand LED N Y
Stock LED LED N Y
EP28 Incand Incad N N/A
EP28 ED Incand N N/A
EP28 Icand LED N N/A
EP28 LED LED N N/A

* Just tired some 10 ohm 5 watt 50 cent resisters from Radio Shack.

I thought the EP28 might be bad so I exchanged it same results.
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#18

Post by dmccully »

Shoe- For the resistor, did you use 5 watt or .5 watt. I was just at Radio Shack and they only had 10 ohm/10 watt or 10 ohm/.5 watt, in the store and on line.
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#19

Post by shoe »

I used the 10 ohm 10 watt resister. I just used them for testing. After I tested and knew that would solve the problem I went ahead and purchased four resisters from http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm which are 6 ohm 50 watt resisters. I'm not sure if a 50 watt resister is necessary. But I now have everything installed and ready to go. I been on a few short trips around town and everything seems to be working fine.

The family and I will be off to a bike blessing on Sunday in Owatonna, MN being hosted by the Soul Purpose which is a chapter of the Christian Motorcyclist Association. http://www.cmausa.org/ It will be a test of the lights, my ability to disassemble and reassemble a motorcycle and sidecar setup.
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#20

Post by dmccully »

Cool, thanks, please let me know how it goes. Why did you change to the 6 ohm/50 watt?
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#21

Post by shoe »

I purchased all my bulbs (LEDs) from superbright lights and got the resistors they recommended.
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#22

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Changing from incandescents to LEDs and then adding resistors to the circuit to increase the current draw to make the flasher work is kind of like wearing shoes with lifts and then hunching down so you aren't the tallest one in the room - it works, but what's the point?

Besides, I'll bet that you spent almost as much for the resistors to make your old flasher work as you would have for a brand new flasher that wouldn't need them.

Considering that flashers don't last forever and you would probably need to replace it eventually.....
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
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#23

Post by shoe »

Actually the current draw is only while the you have the blinker on. Since I'm not at the age where I drive with my left blinker on all the time - I am still drawing a lot less current than normal. As for the resisters, I would have love to get by without them, but I tried various flasher units to try and get it to work without resisters. Everyone on this board and another board suggested the EP28 which if you look at my earlier post did not work for me. Also tried various flashers in my electronics parts bin (and the wife wonders why I don't throw things out) without success. I don't know if my 79GL is different from the later models when it comes to the flasher circuit. I know there is not a problem with the wiring bundle since I spend many a evening this past winter at the work bench ensuring the wires and insulation where good. I will admit the unknown factor is the blinker buzzer. I did play around with having it in the circuit and not. The results were the same.

Bob, using your analogy, I am only stooping down to get in the door that leads to the into the room of people - then I stand up tall and proud.
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#24

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The one on my 650 is a Tridon (it doesn't have a part number) and it will flash with just the signal indicator on the dash connected.

With the electronic ones, have you tried them with the wires reversed? It really shouldn't matter, but sometimes it can make a difference.

As for the buzzer, it should increase the load if anything.

Another thought: Have you checked your system voltage lately? Low voltage can keep a flasher from working properly. This is sometimes the first sign of problems in the charging system.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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#25

Post by shoe »

I never tried the EP28 with the wires reversed. My system voltage at the battery at ~1000 RPM is 14.3 but then I never thought to check it at the flasher. At the lights sockets it was 13.4 without the engine running same as the battery. I'd be interested to to see what happens if I reverse the wires at the flasher. LEDs are really a specialized diode and will only pass electricity one way, ie if they are hooked up wrong they won't light up. (I had to rewire my Vetter fairing too.)
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Led Turn Signal Conversion

#26

Post by Silver Bullet »

Hi Everyone! I'm new at posting. Hope this works.
I could use some suggestions on converting to LED rear turn signals on my 78. I plan on mounting some Leather Lyke hard bags and would like to mount some LED turn signals on them. After reading this thread I relize that I have to compensate for the lesser load or I'll over heat my regulator. Could I use a High Wattage 90/100 PIAA H4 Headlight buld to equalize the load? Thanks
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#27

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I wouldn't wory about reducing the load of the turn signals because it wouldn't make any more difference than not using them for extended periods.

It's when people go overboard and change all of the lights to LEDs in an attempt to increase the lifespan of the alternator that the potential for regulator problems becomes an issue.

At any rate, I don't recommend using a headlight that uses more than 55/60W unless you run heavier wires and a relay. The original wires were sized to suit the original headlight and a higher power light will make the wires run warmer and potentially damage the insulation. The increased current could also cause the switches to wear out sooner.

You would be better off adding some running lights connected as I described in the 13th post on page 1 of this thread.

BTW: If you want to improve the amount of light on the road in front of you, it can be done without a higher powered headlight. See my comments in this thread.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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#28

Post by Silver Bullet »

Thanks so much for the info on the LED turn signals and the HID kit looks swell too! Now, I forgot to mention, that I have the rear turn signals to run as running lights. They are on all the time and the original incandescent bulbs are running very bright. If my new LED turn signals are on all the time as running lights, will I need to equalize the load by adding other lights up front? Thanks
[i][color=#FFFF80][color=#FFFF00]Silver Bullet[/color][/color][/i]
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#29

Post by Sidecar Bob »

That won't be an issue, but unless you have red lenses on the rear turn signals you shouldn't have them on all of the time. It is illegal in most of the world to have any colour of lights except red on the rear of a vehicle other than amber turn signals. I don't advise you to change them to red lenses either - they are amber so that it is easier for a half asleep driver to recognize that theyare turn signals and not something else.

As well, you aren't allowed to have any light within 4' or 100mm of the turn signals when they are flashing, so if you use the signals as running lights they must turn off between the flashes, not just become dimmer.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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#30

Post by Silver Bullet »

That's interesting about the law and colour. My signals are stock amber. They're on all the time because it was the only way I could get them to work when I mended, and connected the wiring mess in the headlight left after I removed the Vetter fairing. It was pretty chopped up. However, the signals do flash on and off completely. So, it looks like I might be legal. Now, I just got some Harley front turn signals today in the mail and they have a red lens. I wonder if they'll pass inspection. They're on constantly but dim, and they do flash on and off completely. Hey, thanks for all your feedback! I wonder if the law is different in The Great White North. I think I will just install some LED bulbs in my stock rear signals. I put one in my Indian taillight it's nice and bright to light up the license plate. This way, I won't have to drill holes in my hard bags. So, I'll be running three LED bulbs in the rear total. Wish me luck. Thanks!
[i][color=#FFFF80][color=#FFFF00]Silver Bullet[/color][/color][/i]
1978 GL 1000
1982 GL500 Silver Wing Interstate
http://ngwclub.com/gallery/SilverBullet
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