Fan thermo switch; is this right? (cheap FIX?)

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wingsound
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#31

Post by wingsound »

The fan switch is an 18mm thread, I think it's a 1.5mm pitch. I did find ONE at NAPA that would fit, it cost about $18. I had put the entire bike back together after having it apart for a month when I went to replace the fan switch. I was able to get the old one out with a 1-1/6 socket and 12" extension- then I went the put the new one in with I think it was a 7/8" deep well socket.

After dinking around trying to get the socket over the wire leads I had soldered on; to plug in to the Honda connector I finally got the stupid thing screwed in and tight. Now to plug my leads with banana plugs into the Honda connector! Do you think I could do that one handed or get both hands in there? NO WAY!

Well it was getting late and I was getting tired from saving so much money. That night there was a post about a aftermarket replacement available from Crescent Moon Cycles, so I called the next morning and YES- she had one for $40. I can't wait for it to arrive so I can put the right part in and just plug it in. And I won't need to remove the radiator again to do so.

You shoulod know I am cheap (just ask my employees) but my GW is my hobby, baby, indulgence- so I guess you could think of the right part (read no cob job) as like buying my bike a dozen roses- there- I feel justified now!
Naked 81' GL1100
93 Aspencade
74 R90/6

Hey- that sounds like a GoldWing!
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#32

Post by ElPiloto »

Bad information was edited out of this post.
Last edited by ElPiloto on Thu May 29, 2008 10:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Roady
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#33

Post by Roady »

RB wrote:Not to high jack the thread but..a PO permanently wired the fan tot eh ignition somehow so it comes on where I turn the key on to start the bike. I'd like to put a switch in the wire so I can at least turn it off when starting the bike. What I need to know is where the fan wires hit someplace easy to get to on the frame so I can wire in a switch and place it in a handy location.

I figure I can cut in anyplace to do this..but having trouble tracing/finding the fan wires..I can see them coming out of the thermo unit but they disappear behind that metal sheet behind the radiator..when do they come out????

This is on an 80 1100
IMHO, this is not a good idea. The fan should not run at the user's choice as the user ofttimes will make the wrong choice. And it should not run all the time because...well...because it's not supposed to run all the time.

Either bite the bullet and get a new switch from Frenchie's Moonplace or do the homemade one explained above.

Again, this is In My Humble Opinion.

Discuss (tho' this has been beat-to-death previously).
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therealmark
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#34

Post by therealmark »

ElPiloto wrote:
NISSAN STANZA (1982 - 1983)
NISSAN STANZA GL (1984 - 1985)
NISSAN STANZA XE (1984 - 1985)

This switch looks exactly like the original switch with the protruding sensor.
Stoopid thermoswitch. I've got the same problem.

Anyways I just bought one of these but the thread size is a smaller diameter than the Honda one. Too bad because otherwise it's pretty much friggin' identical. Oh well, I'll try the Geo/Suzuki ones instead.

M.
'78 GL1000 and '76 Volvo station wagon with 350 chevy.
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#35

Post by Roady »

I've got the front end torn apart again. Radiator off ... need new water pump ... replace right head gasket ... she's really naked now.

The fan switch that I installed tested good on the bench. But its sensor was about 3/4 inch shorter than the original. On the bike it did not work consistently. Sometimes it switched on at about 5/8 on the gauge, other times it did not and the needle would creep up to the red zone. If I got moving the temp would come down but if I couldn't roll along I had to pull over and let it cool down.

I have ordered a new, OEM switch from Service Honda. $59 plus $9 shipping. It's coming with a bunch of other parts so that S&H charge gets distributed over all.

It's possible to get to the switch without tearing everything apart but it's a royal pain in the a$$.

I suggest that if you're in there, remove and test both the sending unit and the switch. The instructions and specs are in the Hayne's Manual (or in previous posts in this thread). If the fan switch is bad, replace it with OEM, this is not something you want to save a few bucks on. And do not forget to carefully inspect that water pump!

I'm now in there after only about 1000 miles because my water pump was bad (and has been for a long time) ... I neglected it ... put in the wrong coolant (use NON-Silicate, HondaTM brand) ... blew a head gasket ... and limped home with my tail between my legs. :oops:
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#36

Post by Whiskerfish »

Roady wrote: I'm now in there after only about 1000 miles because my water pump was bad (and has been for a long time) ... I neglected it ... put in the wrong coolant (use NON-Silicate, HondaTM brand) ... blew a head gasket ... and limped home with my tail between my legs. :oops:
Dang That is a whole lot of lessons to learn in one post!! :shock:
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#37

Post by heraldhamster »

Roady wrote:...The fan switch that I installed tested good on the bench. But its sensor was about 3/4 inch shorter than the original. On the bike it did not work consistently. Sometimes it switched on at about 5/8 on the gauge, other times it did not and the needle would creep up to the red zone. If I got moving the temp would come down but if I couldn't roll along I had to pull over and let it cool down...
so, you're saying that this:
Roady wrote:Details:
1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 993cc 61cid L3 TBI
Radiator Fan Temperature Switch.
didn't work, right?
sorta bulldogged custom 1978 GL1000 - "geekster"
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#38

Post by Cookie »

It's kind of interesting that my M5 Chinese police bike has a manual backup to the temp switch. This was really a commercial vehicle though.
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Roady
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#39

Post by Roady »

heraldhamster wrote:
so, you're saying that this:
Roady wrote:Details:
1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 993cc 61cid L3 TBI
Radiator Fan Temperature Switch.
didn't work, right?
It was "if-y".

Sometimes it did, sometimes it didn't.

That may also have had something to do with my totally shot water pump. I don't think it was working at even 50%.
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#40

Post by AZCycle73 »

Well it seems my water pump is good so I'm going to go ahead and install the "cheap" Geo temp switch and see what happens. I'll keep everyone updated on the prognosis. Of course, I'm still a few weeks or so away from even firing it up for the first time, so I hope you're patient... :lol:
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#41

Post by Roady »

Added link to Cycleman's advice in original post and moved this thread to How-To for Wings forum.
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Fan Switch

#42

Post by fish »

NAPA autoparts has a book with fan switches listed by thread size with opening and closing temps listed. Just find the old experienced counterman to help you! :roll:
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#43

Post by Kinggoat »

I did the Geo Metro fan switch swap this weekend. It seems to work pretty good. No over heating or running hot. I do believe the next project will be replacing the stator, possible. Thanks for the switch advice.
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#44

Post by kitbutterfield »

Now...I know this is probably a stupid question, but has anyone looked at fan switches from 70s Honda Civics?
I've not seen one in person & I've never tested it, but the photos I saw look nearly identical to the switch on my '76 Wing.

Please...Someone reply, before I go buy one & try it.

LOOK HERE
KB
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kitbutterfield
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#45

Post by kitbutterfield »

I think I may have answered my own post...
I looked at the other threads on this topic & found that a replacement fan switch for the '76 Honda Civic is listed...
Beck/Arnley # 201-0817 seems to be one of the options that people have recommended.

I sure hope it works.
KB
1976 GL1000 Nudewing
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