Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

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builder
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#16

Post by builder »

Old Fogey wrote:Check the bulb first! been there, done........................!!
yaiii.. i got it on all the time now..

LOL

:lol:

Still have to jump start it on the selenoid..
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#17

Post by Hegel »

So I have a 77 gl1000 and if I forget to put it in neutral before I shut it down, it is very difficult to put in neutral. I am not saying to remove the switch because it has its purpose ( in my case its off all the time. I havent checked the bulb yet though) but this bike is 33 years old and i'd like a failsafe. that being said, could a spst switch be installed inline and when the switch fails or in my case I forget to put it in neutral you could open (if I read the post right) the spst switch to be able to start it while holding the clutch in.

or am i just being dumb.
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#18

Post by Whiskerfish »

You clutch switch should allow you to start the bike if that is what you are after. Just pull in the clutch and the bike should crank.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
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and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#19

Post by Hegel »

it does not
2011 Triumph Rocket 3 Roadster (Totalled)
2008 Triumph Rocket 3 Standard.
1977 gl1000 cafe project for my brother
1993 xr250l 280 kit
1968 Husqvarna 250t Commando (Needs a lot of work. been sitting outside since 1971)
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#20

Post by Cookie »

Then it be broken. Start by adjusting the clutch with both adjustments and after that maybe fix the clutch switch if you want that to work.
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Hoosier Daddy
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#21

Post by Hoosier Daddy »

To check if the clutch switch is bad Check and verify continuity to ground from the Green / Red wire terminal at your clutch switch when you pull the clutch. If you do, the switch is OK.
If not, next verify the green to ground continuity, (won't matter if the handle is pulled on that one). If good there, you have a bad switch. If no continuity on that wire trace the green wire to find the open.
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#22

Post by Toehead »

You mentioned that you had trouble "burning off" the carbon.

I did as well. I had 12 volts applied directly to the switch (in 1st) for 10 minutes or so. It was pulling about 600 milliamps the whole time, but did not "burn" off and the light was still on constantly.

I then put another car battery in series with the bike battery, and applied 25+ volts to the switch while it was in 1st. This time I got a tiny spark when I hooked up the wire to the battery, and then nothing. A quick check shows that the light is now off in any gear except neutral.
2012 Golf TDI, fast and frugal oil burner
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
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'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#23

Post by Whiskerfish »

Toehead wrote:You mentioned that you had trouble "burning off" the carbon.

I did as well. I had 12 volts applied directly to the switch (in 1st) for 10 minutes or so. It was pulling about 600 milliamps the whole time, but did not "burn" off and the light was still on constantly.

I then put another car battery in series with the bike battery, and applied 25+ volts to the switch while it was in 1st. This time I got a tiny spark when I hooked up the wire to the battery, and then nothing. A quick check shows that the light is now off in any gear except neutral.

I have done that fix on a couple of bikes but it never lasted for me. Seemed like within a few days or weeks the switch was failing again. Just so you are not surprised if it comes back :( :(
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#24

Post by Toehead »

Thanks for the heads up. I'll post an update after some more riding. If it lasts a month I will be happy. It only takes a minute to do, so I don't mind redoing it.
2012 Golf TDI, fast and frugal oil burner
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
'81 GL1100 14,000 (reconditioned and sold)
'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
'76 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow (Megasquirted efi build) http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59774
JonnyC4
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#25

Post by JonnyC4 »

If the neutral light is on and my bike cranks over fine that is good right? I bypassed the clutch ground (wired them together with a twist),
but not the neutral ground and I have no spark and the only thing that is left are the coils being totally shot. Am I missing something? This is my first rebuild and I am a total newb at electrical systems as I have only ever ridden two strokes and bicycles.
- 1978 GL1000 on its way to being a blacked out original.
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Whiskerfish
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#26

Post by Whiskerfish »

Jonny

There are several possible causes for no spark. I would start a thread in the tech area and give us as much information as you can regarding what the condition of the bike is and what you have done so far and we will be glad to try and assist you.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
JonnyC4
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Re: Neutral (The Light, The Switch, And The Diode)

#27

Post by JonnyC4 »

thanks headed there now
- 1978 GL1000 on its way to being a blacked out original.
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