Stator plug replacment done right

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littlebeaver
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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#46

Post by littlebeaver »

Ok, what if someone put in the same gauge wires then with no plugin's? Has anyone ever operated on a rectifier? I'm thinking if someone could get in there where the yellow wires are placed, they could remove them and put in new wires and solder them in place direct. and use j b weld or epoxy to close up the wound after surgery...Is this dumb or will this work? I truly don't know as I'm no sparky..I just had a idea that's all...
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Bankerdanny
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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#47

Post by Bankerdanny »

I did this in the Fall of 2011. The instructions are excellent and it was not difficult.

unfortunately shortly after I woke it up from its Winter nap the next year the new plug melted together.

Since I am not worried about a concours bike I just soldered the wires together to eliminate the connection. No more melting issues and the connections show no signs of excess heat.
'76 CB750F, parts for about 2 CB550's, '72 MGB-GT

Past bikes: '75 CB550F, 77 GL1000, '77 CB550K, '89 Yamaha FJ1200, '02 Royal Enfield Bullet 500ES, '68 Suzuki K11, '69 Yamaha YR2, '70 Honda SL175, '69 BMW R69S.

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evilratwing
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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#48

Post by evilratwing »

Bankerdanny wrote: Since I am not worried about a concours bike I just soldered the wires together to eliminate the connection. No more melting issues and the connections show no signs of excess heat.
I've done this, as well. Solder, 2 layers of heat shrink and several turns of electrical tape. If I ever have to replace the stator, I'll just pick up the license plate and drive an 1100 under it. Problem solved.. :mrgreen:
The bike is essentially just another bike... The pilot is CRAZY.

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Whargoul - Murdered out 1978 GL1000 - Engine KaBOOM.
Cherry Cough Syrup - 2009 Suzuki M90 - 3,300 miles.
triwing
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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#49

Post by triwing »

Soldering is the best, but stator is in a pretty dry, hot, unfriendly place. Splashed oil is only cooling provided, & new stator will fry like the last, but heavier winding's on replacement's, soldering wires, is the best I can do. Replaced connector's with HEAVY BRASS ones, new locking plug's, like the original. new plug melted, silicon grease, melted as well. so I solder, heat shrink,& forget about it. Friend of mine uses connectors from radio shack, come in bar's with screw's you can break to size. Leave space between connector's for cooler connection's? Might help keep joint's cooler, so they don't melt, if you don't want to solder, & be able to take apart. Hope this is helpful. crossy.gif
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