The Cadaver Project Thread

[Goldwingologist]

Wow I just had a major breakthrough! After several days of spraying penetrating oil and gentle persuasion with a block of wood and hammer, I finally got the pistons to budge about a half inch! The pistons actually moved! This is a big deal for me - I am excited. This is a victory even if the Patriots can't be in the Superbowl.

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I cleaned out the rust rings and started all over again. I will just keep doing what I have been doing - I got it to move once now I know I will get it to move again. I am also going forward with the wet sanding on the frame, subframe and swingarm. I am cleaning the rust and corrosion from the shocks forks and wheels. It is all coming along:

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I really like the raw metal look and I think I am going to run with it...

[Track T 2411]

[pidjones]

You need to get etching primer on the frame quick, or it will flash-rust.

[Goldwingologist]

You need to get etching primer on the frame quick, or it will flash-rust.

To prevent flash rusting I am using the old-school chopper method of boiled linseed oil with a brush-on oil-based clear coat on top. I have the materials handy and it gives me that raw metal look that I am going for. Like a cold grey cadaver.

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The prep work is not perfect for a nice paint job -just want to get on a few thin coats. Kinda like putting a little makeup on a cadaver. The more I look at it the more I like it. And the pistons keep slowly moving a little more at a time. I am feeling more and more confident that I will actually bring this thing back to life....

[Rat]

Best pic I can find on short notice of 'Bones' a barely there Wing by Rainstormrider .... I’ll look for a better pic

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Gord

[Rat]

Couple more and a link to his build thread
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=24698&start=615#p452915

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Gord

[Goldwingologist]

I had never seen Bones before you showed me that, Gord. It is a really cool bike and a great build thread. Some of the things he did are very similar to some things that I have been thinking about doing. And the way his project turned out has some similarities to the vision I have for the way my project could turn out.

But I was trying to avoid thinking that way. I had been trying to avoid planning out a completed bike when I don't even have a running engine yet. I was trying not to get too far ahead of myself, but that's impossible when I have ALL FOUR PISTONS SPINNING FREELY!!

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My brain cannot help but to get carried away!

My original plan was to split the cases and inspect, clean and refurbish every single part. I especially wanted to ensure there was no more sand in the bottom of the engine that came out when I first drained the oil. But now that it is spinning freely I just want to see if I can get this thing running.

Now I am thinking I will just follow Randakk's procedure for starting an old wing from this site and use that method of flushing out the bottom of the engine. But first I need to clean up these mating surfaces and get the heads back on with fresh gaskets and then dial in the cams with new belts.

Next is the carbs - I will need a rebuild kit. Exhaust, cooling system and a way to get spark to the spark plugs and I can find out if it runs. Then I will need fork seals, steering stem bearings and swingarm bearings to make this thing a roller. As much as I love having this in my kitchen, sooner or later it will have to make its way out. I already have fresh rubber, so then brakes and I can find out if it rides and shifts. I'm excited - this is fun!

[Goldwingologist]

The engine has fresh new head gaskets and belts. Pistons, cams and valves all dialed in. But still it sits lifeless.

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The frame is freshly oiled. Cold dead steel.

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Put them both together and it is like a match made in the mortuary.

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I like looking at it.

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[Paola Zago]

Hi Goldwingologist, I'm Paola from Italy, congratulations for the enthusiasm and passion you transmit in describing the work on this motorcycle. I saw that it had very special crash bars, could you tell me the name of who makes them? I'd really like my 1976 LTD.
Thanks in advance and, keep it up, I'm very curious to know that the work is going on

[Goldwingologist]

Wow thank you, Paola! I do not know the brand name of those crash bars. I did not realize they were special. I don't really like them and they make me sad. And they put way too much stress on the frame. I don't know if I will use them.

And I don't know if I will use the original radiator, which I thought at first would be un-salvageable. I cleaned the sand from inside with boiling distilled water. I cleaned up the outside and I tried to straighten out the fins with a fin comb.

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I'm just not that confident that this brass and copper radiator will hold water. I really want a brand new aluminum radiator welded by a robot. And I really lack confidence in the bakelite water pump. I now know that water pump will fail. I am going to have to replace the water pump, and if I do that I will definitely want to replace the radiator too. But that is $300 and I hate to spend that money on a bike that doesn't run yet. And I just blew through my budget with a carb rebuild kit, bearings, fork seals and head pipes. I still need to get spark to the spark plugs and $300 would go a long way toward making that happen.

I think I am going to keep the original water pump and radiator until: 1) the bike runs; and 2) it leaks coolant. If the bike runs and it does not leak coolant, then I will leave it alone until it does. Even though it would be easier to do now and the aluminum radiator would look better. As soon as the bike leaks coolant I will spend the money and replace both items. But if the engine does not run and it still leaks coolant anyway then I will come crying to all of you for support

[pidjones]

I am very comfortable with brass and copper radiators, and they are readily repaired with just a soldering torch, acid flux, and solder. Simply pressurize it with air to about 15 psi, lock it in, and see if it holds. If it leaks, soap solution will quickly tell where. The primary advantage to aluminum is weight.

[Paola Zago]

Thanks Goldwingologist for the answer, I don't know if they are special, but they are very beautiful, I wanted to know the name of the manufacturer because I had never seen them, and if the manufacturer is Europe, that's it.
however, good continuation of work.

[rcmatt007]

those might be Vetter crash bars

[Liam]

I would take my chances with a Brass and copper constructed radiator made in japan before I would an Aluminium unit made in China.
Just my opinion.
Even if you have doubts about your radiator, they are plentiful and inexpensive to buy used. As pidjones says they can be repaired,
this would be beyond my skillset, but there is a radiator repair shop almost everywhere that can do it.

[Paola Zago]

those might be Vetter crash bars

thanks for the indication, but if they are Vetter, they are American-made, and to receive them it would cost me a lot of shipping and customs tax. patience