Autumn Rebuild

[ericheath]

The Dynas that I had fail drop two cylinders. It was usually one side of the two pickups. I also had one older version Dyna 3 (black box type) fail but that was from high source voltage and it was cooked in the box. My sense wire for regulator came off and I saw the smoke leave the box. I have only read of one of the newest version Dyna have an issue.

[CYBORG]

I have had several Dyna systems over the years, and they all failed, one way or another. Some one module or the other, some with brain box failure. Mostly on long trips. I believe the module failures were heat related, as when the engine cooled down, it would run well for a while till the heat returned. Not overheating, but normal temp. I gave up on Dyna and went to a C5 system several years ago and never looked back. Much better then the Dyna. More reliable, in my opinion.

[heli_madken]

Thanks Cyborg, I think I have found my issue.

Got home tonight and the bike would not start, thought what now!!! until I put her on reserve and she fired up

Oops think she might have been running out of petrol

Ran for 30 minutes with no sign of any problems. Just goes to show if you look for a problem you will find one.

Really sorry everyone, dont be too hard on me at least I was brave enough to own up

[heli_madken]

Good ride out today, man am I chuffed everything worked silky smooth. What I thought was the half rotation clunk has completely gone so a lack of grease on all joints of the final drive was to blame for that, angry at myself for not checking sooner.

Only revved to 5000 rpm but she was singing and pulling strong, before she used to sound angry and felt flat. At 50 mph in 5th I can't feel the engine its so smooth. My other bike is a BMW R1250RT and although it develops a lot more power the GL1000 has the better engine for touring in my opinion.

Thanks everyone for the help, I still feel she runs rich at tick over so a little more work to do but otherwise wow!!

[Liam]

Great stuff. I would like to see some pictures of the finished bike.

[heli_madken]

Will do Liam, weather was closing in so had to rush home but as soon as I get a good day.

I thought I would report back on the aluminium radiator I fitted. I could not find one that had the expansion tank connection in the correct orientation so had to take a chance and buy the 1100 type - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123800922756

First impressions when it arrived weren't very good, welds are not pretty but at least they are functional. I had to do some work to make the fan fit and also the bottom brackets needed to be trimmed a little to clear the frame.

The next challenge was the fact that the overflow and the cap itself fouls the coils. This was relatively easy to solve by moving them to the other side of the mounts and moving the mounts to the other side of the frame -

20200208_174953.jpg (146.24 KiB) Viewed 182 times

The radiator itself is the same size but it has more water channels and they are bigger, I think it looks great -

20200208_175001.jpg (226.77 KiB) Viewed 182 times

At least I can be confident that it is completely clear inside, I think for the money I paid its actually good value if you are prepared to spend some time making adjustments -

20200208_175438.jpg (186.73 KiB) Viewed 182 times

[Track T 2411]

Looking good!

[heli_madken]

Weather has been pants but finally had a chance to get a reasonably long ride -

20200304_125859.jpg (184.03 KiB) Viewed 151 times

Things didnt go entirely to plan. Firstly I have at last cured my over rich problem, when I first bought the bike I knew it had carburetor issues so I did a partial rebuild and replaced all the jets using Keyster components. This made matters worse then following a members advice I reverted back to the OEM jets. All except the #35 slow fuel jets. For some reason I missed these more than once and only by chance noticed the originals where still in my parts bin.

Lesson learnt, as soon as the OEM jets where back in the richness has gone and all four plugs burn exactly the same. Only problem in my attempts at chasing the cause I have the floats set at 22.5mm so now she runs too weak, still I am an expert at taking these carbs off now so no biggy to correct this. Moral, dont use Keyster jets they will cause you no end of problems.

Now for the second problem which happened on my first ride since the rebuild, about 10 miles from home I suddenly lost the clutch, had just enough to limp home fortunately. What happens is the actuating lever 'cams-over' you can see the return spring is very tight in the picture below.

20200304_143835.jpg (118.43 KiB) Viewed 151 times

When it happened the first time I thought perhaps I had not adjusted correctly but this time I know everything was as it should be. I have replaced the friction plates and springs with OEM parts, did the usual turn adjuster screw in until feel friction, out 3/4 turn then lock nut, 5/8 lever play with main adjuster then 1/4 play with handlebar adjuster. Clutch works great until bam!, its as if the actuator is being pulled too far, cant quite figure out whats happening, any ideas?

Thanks for any help, Ken

[heli_madken]

I have a theory, perhaps the return spring is knackered and not pulling the lever back fast enough when I release the clutch which is allowing the cable nipple to move forward and catch the second step, the extra few mm cams the lever over the next time I pull the clutch in, am I seeing things or can you see the this case in my picture?

[CYBORG]

I have had the same problem with my 78. Many years ago. Followed exactly the adjustment in the manual, and have not had a problem since. The correct free play on both ends is VERY important. And the difference between a cold engine, and a warm one can make a difference