Autumn Rebuild

A forum for stories, pics and updates of your resto's. Be it a barn find, Grampas hand me down or a bike being brought back to it's former glory.If you are restoring it, show us your stuff!

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Liam
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#31

Post by Liam »

I would take my chances on just buying a used motor or even a used radiator assembly.
Lots of them on ebay, or try DK Motorcycles in Stoke.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#32

Post by Liam »

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-GL1000 ... SwPbldXBzs

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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#33

Post by heli_madken »

Thanks Liam I think you are right, there are a few in the UK for sale, that particular one has a really clean looking spacer washer so hopefully the shaft is in good condition, think I might go for it price is not bad at all.

Thanks for your help, Ken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#34

Post by Liam »

Ken, Hit those guys with a low ball offer and you would get it for a bit less after a bit of haggling.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#35

Post by heli_madken »

Cheers Liam, I got lucky with this one, motor is in great condition and the fan looked better than mine so a bit of paint and its all back together -
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The next thing I wanted to look at is the final drive unit, I still havent found the source of the knocking noise I get as I take up drive as everything looks and feels ok. The splines on the propshaft and rear wheel drive are incredibly dry, rust starting to form on the propshaft splines.

They look to be in good order but my question is what type or types of grease should I be using? As I understood it the wheel drive splines should only have something like MolySlip AS60 anti scuff compound used liberally but this chap looks like he is using just a general purpose grease and slavering it on good and proper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TWTMuiacGM

Any help would be appreciated -

Dont think there was much in the way of grease used by the PO -
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#36

Post by Track T 2411 »

There are varying opinions concerning what type of grease to use on the final drive/flange splines. Here's a write-up by Mike Nixon that covers the Honda perspective. Part way through Mike does state that Honda best practice applied to all early wings, not just the 1100...
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66199
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

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'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

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'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
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Liam
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#37

Post by Liam »

The fan looks super, Ken.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#38

Post by Liam »

As for grease, you can start a discussion like what kind of oil to use. All the older guys used to say that any grease is better than no grease. Moly grease is what you use for the likes of those drive splines. Easy enough to get from the likes of halfords. It is more difficult to clean from the applied assembly than general purpose grease would be, but easier than lithium based grease like CV joint grease. I feel that the harder it is to remove, the better it does its job. Just my opinion, mind you.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#39

Post by pidjones »

>>>>I still havent found the source of the knocking noise I get as I take up drive as everything looks and feels ok.<<<<
There is a spring-loaded shock absorber in the main output from the engine. It will cause a knocking sound sometimes as it loads/unloads.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#40

Post by heli_madken »

pidjones wrote:There is a spring-loaded shock absorber in the main output from the engine. It will cause a knocking sound sometimes as it loads/unloads.
'Half rotation clunk' I think its referred to isnt it? It is possibly that, looking at the output shaft and the spring everything feels really tight and looks in good condition, are there any tell tale signs I can look for?

These arrived today, I was having trouble with flooding on No4. Last time I rebuilt the carbs I used after market float valves, this time I splashed out on genuine items, they come with everything including the screens. I am stupidly excited about getting them fitted -
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#41

Post by heli_madken »

I have finished all the painting now including the exhaust, I have decided to fit new clutch friction plates as the engine is out it makes sense, original Honda they are on order so just waiting on arrival before I start re-assembly.

I am still pondering the clunk I get on taking up drive, as well as the rear splines on the propshaft the output shaft splines where also dry as you can see in the picture. I think I am lucky as the bike did about 2000 miles since the rebuild but only in dry weather so there doesn't seem to be any damage to the splines in terms of play.

I came across this article on WingOvations http://wingovations.com/gl1000-k0-swing ... 4579471107 which applies to the K0. In effect the PO reverted to a K0 setup, he took away the seal discussed in the article and blanked off the grease nipple with a bolt, then made matters worse by not greasing anything, go figure. Oh well at least the casing was beautifully painted, dont get it, why take such care then screw up on the important stuff.

The article talks about a clunk, could the lack of grease be the cause? does the shaft move slightly forward or backwards with torque as the drive is taken up?

I have the seal on order and will fit the grease nipple, as Whiskerfish mentioned in a previous post the grease nipple doesnt do much as the splines are shielded but with the seal in place you can at least pack the area with grease.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#42

Post by Track T 2411 »

As mentioned above, the 'half - rotation clunk' is fairly common, and it's considered one of those 'quirks' that come with riding an early Wing. There isn't any particular fix for it and doesn't hurt anything. If your inspection revealed no damage or wear, I'd be inclined to say don't worry about it...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#43

Post by desertrefugee »

^^^ What he said. Mine does it. I worried about it for a year or so, and now I don’t pay any attention to it. It’s part and parcel of the design.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#44

Post by pidjones »

The PO of my '78 removed the seal, replaced the external circlips with internal type, the pumped the entire swingarm full of grease. After finally getting the grease out, I replaced the drive shaft (U-joint was shot on the old one), found a seal on ebay, and did a good moly lube on the coupling before assembly. Ruined a couple gallons of kerosene getting the grease out.
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Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#45

Post by heli_madken »

I have had a frustrating time waiting for parts to get some real progress on the engine so i have changed my attention to the carbs.

I have a confession, the last time I serviced the carbs I did not split the plenum and renew the seals. Stupid as they look shot, again the PO claimed they had been fully rebuilt and I am far too trusting -
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I am assuming that this one (No2) has been leaking, I would imagine this would make that cylinder run rich?
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I have a new plenum seal and the carb to plenum seals but surprisingly the o'rings didnt come with the 'Keyster' gasket sets I bought previously so I have had to locate a supplier I think they are 5 x 2.5mm but they are pretty squashed so its difficult to tell.
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