Autumn Rebuild

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heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#61

Post by heli_madken »

Yeah sorry Robin, too early in the morning!
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#62

Post by robin1731 »

lolol anim-cheers1 shakehands lolol
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heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#63

Post by heli_madken »

Happy New Year Everyone,

Christmas and a the worst chest infection I have ever had has slowed me down on my rebuild but I am back to it now.

Come across a problem with my front cover leaking oil. I bought a new OEM gasket and all o-rings and assembled everything dry. I had noted that the PO had used lots of RTV which I wanted to avoid as I know the tolerance/clearance for the correct operation of the gear change mechanism is quite tight.

It took me a little while to figure out why it was leaking, it turns out that there is a small step between the crankcase halves, enough for the seal not to be able to compress enough to work.

The crankcase halves have a couple of dowels for alignment but clearly something has gone wrong, the PO used HEX head bolts as opposed to original for bolting the halves together which may have contributed to the misalignment.

So it looks like I am going to have to revert to a sealer, any opinions?

I havent put oil in the bike yet, what leaked was just some residual oil still in the crankcase. My worry is that once the engine is running I will have a similar leak from the rear cover as the step will obviously be there also, again PO had used RTV. Will I be able to get the rear cover open enough to apply sealer or will it be another engine out job to fix :(
heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#64

Post by heli_madken »

Nearly there, should be starting her up tomorrow night -
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pidjones
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#65

Post by pidjones »

Pretty work. I fear that one half of the case has been replaced. Can't see an offset being released by Honda QA.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#66

Post by heli_madken »

pidjones wrote:Pretty work. I fear that one half of the case has been replaced. Can't see an offset being released by Honda QA.
I agree, I should have thought the dowels would ensure alignment. My only doubt though is that both halves showed some bad signs of corrosion so the miss-match must of happened some time ago. I have stopped the leak at the front, just waiting to see how the gear change pans out, I have to say it wasnt an issue when the bike ran before.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#67

Post by heli_madken »

Everything back together and she started up fine but I am struggling to trace a problem.

When cold she is perfect, idles nicely and revs cleanly. But when she warms up she is awful stumbling and refusing to rev, the difference is astounding.

I managed to run her log enough to balance the carbs, ignition timing is spot on, I have double checked valve gaps, she is running a little rich but acceptable, I have used a butane torch to check for air leaks. Mechanically she sounds great until she warms up.

The reason I took the bike off the road last September was because I was starting to experience this and felt the bike was overheating. Now if anything it is worse, considering I have flushed out the cooling system, new thermostat, new temperature sender and new thermostatic fan switch I am at a loss as to what is happening. The cylinder heads are monstrously hot and yet the temperature gauge says temperature is fine.

This sounds stupid but the PO fitted oversize pistons, do you think he would be stupid enough to not get the bores machined to suit, would this be possible and could the friction generated be causing the overheating?

Any ideas? this is really frustrating as I have gone all out to get this bike sorted only to have made it worse.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#68

Post by pidjones »

Hot heads? That and the cylinders are about all that is cooled in the GL1000. I'd try maybe with an old thermostat with the center gutted (just the bail remaining). Simple things that I've seen; gaskets without holes, water pumps not actually turning, blocked water passages, plugged radiator passages.
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
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heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#69

Post by heli_madken »

Thanks, The only thing I havent replaced is the water pump, partly because it looks brand new, honda part and seems to check out. It is almost as if water isnt flowing through the heads properly, when I had it stripped down I used my compressor to blow all the passages out and none seemed blocked.

I have ordered a new pump and even gone as far as ordering the aluminum radiator here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123800922756 looks a bit of a mess but I am sure I can tidy it up, it is slightly deeper than standard, I am determined to fix this one way or another
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#70

Post by heli_madken »

Cold day here, started her up and she runs and sounds so nice when cold, but noticed for the first time coolant is leaking from the weep hole below the water pump, is this a sign that the pump has actually failed?
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Track T 2411
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#71

Post by Track T 2411 »

heli_madken wrote:Cold day here, started her up and she runs and sounds so nice when cold, but noticed for the first time coolant is leaking from the weep hole below the water pump, is this a sign that the pump has actually failed?
There are only two ways antifreeze could find its way through the weep hole; a poor seal on the housing o-ring or through the seals on the water pump shaft. Some people have experienced only sporadic coolant leaks (probably the housing o-ring), but in general, a leak at the weep hole means the water pump needs some attention.
The water pump still functions, for the most part, as it is shaft driven, but may not be as efficient. I don't recall if you've done the wiggle test, but that's where I would start...
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heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#72

Post by heli_madken »

Cheers, Its leaking good and proper when the engine is running. Everything about the pump checked out, no sign of any wiggle and it turned freely off the engine. In the PO's documentation he says it was replaced, probably about 1000 miles ago but I have found other claims not to be true.

Thanks for your help, I guess the only thing I can do is replace, I have one on order should be here in a couple of days.
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#73

Post by heli_madken »

Help, I cant stop oil leaking from the transmission cover. I am on my 4th attempt which has failed, first was a new original part Honda gasket fitted dry as per manual, second was gasket plus Loctite 5990, third was gasket plus a general purpose automotive RTV and my last attempt was a second new Honda gasket plus Threebond 1215, all have resulted in a frustrating relatively high leak of oil in the area of the lower seam of the cover.

In an earlier thread I noted that there is a step in the crankcase halves but the PO managed somehow to seal the joint. I am beginning to think I have disturbed some of the seal between the crankcase halves at the junction of the transmission cover, am I really going to have to split the crankcase to fix this? cant think of what else to do.

Also the new water pump arrived today and in all honesty I cant feel any difference between it and the existing pump, I think the outer seal the PO fitted was aftermarket and gave in due to the overheating I am not convinced this is going to fix my overheating problem.

I think this bike is fighting me at the moment so any words of encouragement would be appreciated
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#74

Post by CYBORG »

A gasket is only as good as the surfaces That they seal. I would make sure they are flat. And torque the bolts correctly.
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heli_madken
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Re: Autumn Rebuild

#75

Post by heli_madken »

Thanks Cyborg, The surfaces where spotless but I think I have got that problem now, just used more sealer than previous seems to have stopped thankfully.

As for the rough running problem, I spotted by chance that I had an arcing problem at the coils which are Dynatek, when I have investigated I am a bit puzzled as to what the PO did when he made the leads up.

Surely the core should have been exposed and folded back inside the clip or am I wrong the leads are silicone based?
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