GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

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Maroonandwhite
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GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#1

Post by Maroonandwhite »

Hi all! I've spent my free time over the past week pouring through the all the information I could get my hands on relevant to my new-to-me 1978 GL1000: posts on this site, recommendations I received in my welcome forum thread, shop manuals, etc. I've also been disassembling it bit by bit, and now that is complete (although I haven't opened the engine up other than removing the timing and valve covers).

I've been planning my next steps along the way, and I would love to get feedback on these steps from those of you that have been through this already!

First, a little recap of the situation:
• It is a Black 1978 GL1000 with 52,000 miles on the odometer
• When I picked it up last week, it had not been cranked and ridden in approximately a year
• The engine would crank and run, but not smoothly (rough/unstable idle, backfiring, etc.)
• My goal is to turn it into something along the lines of this http://www.bikeexif.com/gl1000, but not as blacked out (think chrome, grey/black paint, brown leather).

Plans/Next steps/Questions:
• Gas tank-- will take it to a local tank coater to have it cleaned and coated
• Radiator-- will have it cleaned/boiled out locally. Will cut a Gates 21008 hose to replace the old hoses.
• Carb-- packing them up to send out to an expert for refurbishment
• Frame & center stand-- will take them to a local powdercoater. Any other items I should have powdercoated?
• Wheels-- my Comstar wheels need to be freshened up a bit. I've seen some people have powdercoated these-- is that recommended?
• Stator-- the previous owner stated that the stator was bad, and he gave me two brand new replacements. I'll install this myself.
• Timing belts, spark plugs, thermostat, air filter-- I have ordered replacements and I'll change these myself
• Engine-- if it was running (albeit poorly), should I crack it and attempt a rebuild? Or just change fluids/belts and move on? One concern, the bits under the valve covers are a deep red color, which is different from the pictures I have seen. Is this cause for concern, or just due to the fact that I have not cleaned it yet?
• Ignition-- I was planning on installing a Dyna S, but I eventually realized that had already been done. Nice surprise!
• Tires-- my local Honda dealership can get and install IRC Duratour RS-310's for around $250 total. Anyone want to talk me out of these tires?
• Brake rotors-- my plan is to send these off to Truedisk for considering having them re-ground and drilled
• Headers-- I'm going to have them ceramic coated
• Muffler-- I do not like the fish tail pipes that were installed. However, I'm still debating what to replace them with. Stock Sportster cast-offs? The Supertrap approach used on the sample bike above? I am open to suggestions here.
• Wiring-- I would like to start from scratch, re-wiring it completely using an M-Unit blue. The wiring diagrams look pretty straightforward (see examples here: https://bikebrewers.com/motogadget-m-unit-wiring/). However, I am curious if this leaves out anything important specific to the GL1000. Fan controls are one thing in particular that appear to be missing in these simple diagrams. Also, with the decreased electrical load over stock (since I am going with LED lights), I will need to re-size the regulator/rectifier to dissipate excess heat, correct?
• Lights-- I am planning on using LED headlights, brake lights, and turn signals. I'll choose these based on aesthetics once the overall look of the bike starts to come into focus.
• Switches/Gauges-- I like the look of the Motogadget switches and gauges. Any downside to this approach, other than cost? https://motogadget.com/en/
• Engine aesthetics-- I am going to polish the covers myself. I'm also planning on ordering one of the stainless steel bolt kits off eBay and replacing all the hardware with those. I'm doing a deep clean of the outside at the moment-- once that is done, should I paint? Could it be taped off and powdercoated as-is, or would that only be possible if I disassembled it completely?
• Tank & side panel painting-- I will have those done locally
• Seat-- I am debating between having the seat that came on it recovered or sourcing something completely new
• Handlebar-- I am leaning towards these: https://www.amazon.com/Renthal-Street-H ... way&sr=8-4
• Brakes-- I'm just now reading up on this system, not sure what direction to go here. There appear to be a few approaches to upgrading.
• Oil filter-- I got a spin-on adapter from Randakk
• Fuel line-- Replacing with clear Tygon
• Water pump-- It appears to be in good shape, so no plan to change it now

A few personal learnings so far:
• The $90 Harbor Freight motorcycle lift, rated for 1500 lbs, failed on me. It collapsed at the welds under WAY less than 1500 lbs. I exchanged it for the $170 aluminum one which is much, much better and worth the additional $$$ in my opinion.
• I had a heckuva time getting the steering stem bolt off. I was tempted to purchase the (expensive!) Honda adapter socket after failing with pipe wrenches, channel locks, vice grips, etc. However, the "hammer and punch" method worked perfectly-- I am happy to have that process in my arsenal now. :)
• The ring clip attaching the engine and drive shaft was as ornery as advertised, but only because I was initially trying to use cheap standard ring clip pliers. Upgrading to the $20 "premium" pliers available at O'Reilly/Harbor Freight/etc. allowed me to pluck it right out (even though they weren't really long nosed).

Thanks for any advice you can share, and thanks for indulging this long post. It was a helpful exercise to get all of that stuff that was in my head into written form!

Here are a few pics of my progress so far:
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rcmatt007
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#2

Post by rcmatt007 »

cracking case is a last case scenario. it actually is cheaper to purchase a used engine
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment viewtopic.php?f=30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" ALMOST DONE
79 project, finished, FOR SALE
'86 1200 (Beth's)(FOR SALE) with motorvation sidecar (sidecar sold) , July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's) (FOR SALE). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#3

Post by pidjones »

These engines are good for 200-300 k miles if not abused. Just maintain.
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#4

Post by CYBORG »

pidjones wrote:These engines are good for 200-300 k miles if not abused. Just maintain.
I agree My 78 has over 400K
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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5speed
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#5

Post by 5speed »

If it is the original water pump (Bakelite impeller) I would change it while you have it apart..
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#6

Post by Track T 2411 »

Looks like a pretty comprehensive plan to me. I agree with the above advice about opening up the engine, especially with only 50k miles on it. Replacing the water pump at this point is really just good insurance, although opinions vary. Same with doing the head gaskets and valve seals. Sitting for about a year isn't terribly bad, IMHO. As for the 'red' coloring on the valve train, some oils and/or additives can do that. I wouldn't be concerned unless there's a ton of sludge built up.
If you do consider doing the water pump, one thing I've found is that there's always a good bit of sludge in the bottom of the cases. I like to pull the oil pickup screen cover (on the lower left side of the engine) while I have the transmission cover off and wash out the bottom end with brake cleaner spray. I tilt the engine forward and flush everything out the front. Messy, but effective...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#7

Post by Rat »

You're going to be opening the rear cover to change the stator .... while you're in that deep check the condition of the spring/rollers on the starter clutch ....

Gord
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‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#8

Post by Maroonandwhite »

Hi everyone, thanks for all the feedback! I've spent the last couple of weeks cleaning, sorting, ordering parts, and generally planning my path forward. Here are my short term plans, with a few questions:

-- Carbs have been shipped off to be rebuilt

-- I am headed to the powder coater Wednesday. So far, I'm planning on having the main frame, removable frame section, center stand, and side stand powder coated. What else should I have done at the same time? (swing arm? final drive?)

-- The powder coater also does ceramic coating, and I plan on having them do my headers. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do muffler-wise, but I figure this will be an okay start and will give me some options moving forward.

-- I'm going to polish the cylinder head covers, timing covers, front forks, and wheels. Polish and high grit sandpaper should be here mid-week. I debated having some of those powdercoated, but I'm going for shiny wherever possible at this point.

-- I cleaned up the gas tank (there were a couple of random items in it that I'm pretty sure didn't belong in there (see pic), but there's definitely rust. I'd like to outsource the cleanup/coating of the tank, but I haven't found a good solution yet. Any recommendations in the mid-south for this type of work?

Image
Image
Image

-- I've spent a lot of time cleaning up the engine. Forty years of accumulated gunk was not pretty!

Image

-- I have replacement belts now, and I will install them this week

-- The water pump looks relatively new, with a metal impeller, so I do not plan on changing it at this point

-- I ordered a gasket kit and sealer so I can replace gaskets everytime I open something up

-- I am going to tackle the stator replacement next. The back end of the engine didn't clean up as well as the rest, so I'm going to do a little deeper clean of it when I have it off for the stator work.

-- I got one of those stainless steel hex bolt kits. I know some people do not advise using these, but I plan on installing them with anti-seize and a torque wrench, so I should be okay, right?

-- I'm working on my wiring plan, centered around an M-Unit Blue. I'm following all the M-Unit build threads on here closely-- they have been super informative so far. One thing I am really debating is the use of a Motoscope Pro or the Chronoclassic Speedo/Tach. The motoscope pro is so clean looking, but I like the UJM look of the two analog dials on these naked bikes. Any pro/cons here, or is it purely personal preference?

Thanks again for all the help!
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#9

Post by rcmatt007 »

the inverted v was connected to a chain that helped you not lose the cap.

There are a couple of ways to clean up the rust. There is the expensive de-rust stuff at auto parts store which is relatively safe. Then there is Muriatic Acid. Works great. Fumes are BAD, and it will eat a hole in your concrete.... but REALLY works
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment viewtopic.php?f=30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" ALMOST DONE
79 project, finished, FOR SALE
'86 1200 (Beth's)(FOR SALE) with motorvation sidecar (sidecar sold) , July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's) (FOR SALE). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#10

Post by flyin900 »

That yellow plastic thingy is the lost sky hook from the service department. :joker

Looks like your making lots of progress on the teardown quite quickly and some actual Honda OEM timing belts on there. Good list of items to check and replace so your well on your way.
The hex bolts are fine and look great too, as you noted use with some anti seize. Just don't let the garage monkey loose when it comes time to be tightening them up properly.
Keep the updates coming.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
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1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#11

Post by Maroonandwhite »

Made some good progress over the last 2 weeks! Here's a quick update:

-- Got my carbs back from being rebuilt. They should be ready to go! The worn buttons were replaced and everything is cleaned, so it looks better as well. However, I would still like to do some polishing-- especially the intakes. Any issue taking them off and polishing them at this point, fresh off a professional rebuild?

-- Dropped off a bunch of parts at the local reputable powder coat shop. They are powder coating the frame, center stand, side stand, swing arm, triple tree (upper and lower). They are also ceramic coating my headers.

-- Removed all the steering bearings/races from the triple tree and frame-- this site and youtube really saved me here, as some of this was really not intuitive (for a first timer). Got a replacement bearing kit to install when I get all the parts back from powder coating.

-- Spent some quality time polishing aluminum parts. It took a while to figure out the best combo of glass bead blasting, hand sanding, buffing wheels, and polishing cone, but I'm happy with the end results. My OCD kind of wanted me to keep going and get everything 100% blemish free, but I think I reached a good stopping point. This was a messy and time consuming exercise, but it was also fun and rewarding. I'm going to tackle my wheels and front forks next.

Image

Image

-- Changed my belts. Was going to put the covers back on, but I broke the only 12mm socket I have that fit my torque wrench in the process of putting the belt tensioners on, so that will have to wait until tomorrow.

-- Got a good deal on a Motoscope Pro, so decided to go that direction (versus the more traditional dials). I have that and an M-Button in-hand so far, and I'm going to order an M-Unit Blue, Breakout Box B, two switches (one three-button, and one two-button), a reg/rec and a wiring kit from Revival Cycles this week. For any of you have that completed a full M-Unit rewiring, have I left anything out? I want to add all the available sensors, but it is unclear so far which ones are completely new (i.e. air temp) and which ones of the existing sensors (water temp, oil pressure, etc.) are not compatible with the M-Unit.

-- FYI, I ordered some clevis pins from Amazon to replace the hinge pins that were missing from my faux-tank covers. They fit perfectly, they are stainless steel, and they are $13 for a pack of 4. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1J3E6Q/re ... OCb0WQ0YPZ

-- Next chores on my list are cleaning and coating the gas tank, and replacing the stator.

Thanks again for all the help and support!
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#12

Post by 5speed »

looking great.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#13

Post by Track T 2411 »

Oooo, shiny! Very tedious work... removing the intake runners shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure you don't twist them to remove them, as there's a large locating tab on each carb and a slot in the rubber that can get damaged.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Maroonandwhite
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#14

Post by Maroonandwhite »

I feel like I made some solid progress this week!

1) I picked up all my parts from the powder coater, and I’m pleased how everything turned out. The ceramic coating on the headers is a little darker/flatter than I expected, but I will probably end up wrapping those anyway.

Image

Image

2) I replaced the steering bearings and races, and installed the triple tree.

a. The lower steering race was a bear to get out. I ended up torching the end of a long flathead screwdriver, and hammering it into an “S” shape. This tool allowed me to catch just enough of the upper lip of the race to drive it out.

Image

b. The lower bearing was also difficult. I polished the steering stem and left it in the freezer overnight, but the bearing still wouldn’t go on easily. I dried to drive it down with a drift, but I was not making progress and I was afraid I would slip and damage the bearing. I did not have a pipe large enough to slide over the stem but small enough to just hit the inner ring of the bearing. I found a piece of thick PVC that would almost fit over the stem, and I split it down one side. This allowed it to flex just enough to hug the side of the stem, and I was able to pound it (HARD!) with an engineer’s hammer to get the bearing to seat on the dust seal appropriately.

Image

c. My Clymer’s manual shows the upper dust seal in-between the upper race and upper bearing. WHAT? It clearly goes on the upper side of the upper bearing, so I’m curious why the manual drawing shows it this way.

Image

Image

3) I completely disassembled my forks, with the goal of replacing the fork seals and polishing up the lowers.

a. The Randakk tool method of seal removal didn’t work for me—I didn’t use thick enough material to make the tool, so it would bend and pull out before the seal budged. What eventually worked was driving a flat drift in between the seal and the inner fork wall—after doing that in a couple of locations, the seal collapsed in on itself and could be pulled out easily.

b. I polished the lower forks, but I never got a finish I was satisfied with. Looking at all the aluminum pieces I have polished, I just don’t think I’m going to be satisfied they way they are. So, now I am considering three options:

i. Send the pieces off to a professional aluminum polisher. Have any of you tried these guys? http://www.mirrorfinishpolishing.com

ii. Have the pieces hard anodized locally. There are some industrial metal coatings service companies in my area that do hard anodizing. I am going to get a quote from them, but I worry about nicks/deep scratches showing through.

iii. Have everything powder coated. I’m pleased with the work my local guy did on my frame, so I’m going to see what options he has for me. I want a bright, metallic finish (not black like the frame and other parts I already had coated).

Image

c. I am looking for the top nuts for the forks. I do not want to use the aftermarket pneumatic tops I have. Are these my best option? https://cognitomoto.com/products/gl1000-fork-nuts-pair They seem expensive. Do you think these would fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/37mm-Front-For ... SwqDhbDjcv

4) I started working on my wheels/tires:

a. I cleaned up the wheels, and polished them with Mother’s paste,

b. I had Shinko Tourmaster 230’s installed front and rear.

c. I sent the brake rotors off to TrueDisk for drilling and surface grinding

d. I removed the bearings and spacers. The “saw down the middle of a hex bolt and drive a wedge into it” method did not work for me. I eventually just pounded them out using a drift at a steep enough angle to gain purchase on the spacer

5) I started stripping the paint off of my gas tank. Almost finished, just need to clean up the stubborn parts. I also purchased some Evapo-Rust to use to cleanup the inside of the tank.

Image

6) I purchased an Antigravity battery and charger.

7) I ordered the rest of my M-Unit hardware (base unit, wiring, switches, etc.)—it should be in next week! I’m ready to start working with that technology, it looks very cool!
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Re: GL1000 ('78) Transformation Underway!

#15

Post by Rat »

Several such errors in the Clymer Manual ....

Gord :IDTS:
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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