Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

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raiddrten
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Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#1

Post by raiddrten »

A buddy loves to buy British bikes and thought I needed to consider purchase of a 1976 GL100 that was with a BSA that he bought.The PO is deceased, but the bike has a good title and his dad made the sale. Every bike has good and bad points, so we bought this one with the theory that it was at least a parts bike. i am hopeful that it will be a runner, and it shows promise already. The seller talked about the bike having charging issues, but checking the connectors on the two heavy wires to the ignition and charging circuits revealed a bad connection in the common connector and a weak dogbone fuse holder.

I am always careful about producing magic smoke in old bikes, so i started testing electron flow to and from things by first using a 5 amp fuse and then worked up to ten for now. When you use a little ATC fuse, they melt silently is tasked with too much amp draw, but leave this world with an audible SNAP if there is a short. i keep the fuses small for testing in case a bare wire causes a problem and use a larger fuse when trying the starter

The first thing one naturally want to do is clean the bike up to its former glory, but that can cause a lot of regret later if there are mechanical issues that make all that time a bad investment. I am a vintage twin guy just because they are about as simple as a lawn tractor in many ways. I wanted to hear this bike at least fire a few licks before investing a lot of time on it. Because it sat for 15 years, I certainly did not want to turn it over dry. MMO in the cylinders and using the kick starter has to help a bit. I let the MMO work its way in case the rings were stuck, took out the spark plugs so as not to strain anything. Seat of the pants compression test of a thumb over the spark plug hole did not produce the desired results a on all cylinders. I let it sit overnight thinking this bike is a part-out.

I had never done a leak-down test before, so I tried to cobble together a tester from a garage sale compression tester in hopes that it would prove to be valves and not piston problems. When I could not hear anything of consequence, i hooked up the test gauge and was presently surprised when the test revealed pressures of 135 to 150 cold. A little shot of carb cleaner to each intake got the bike to fire and now i have a project
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The paint on this bike is pretty, but it looks like someone cleared over it or perhaps a repaint happened as i saw some sins of that around the fuel gauge. i tested some of my clear to see if it would wrinkle the existing stuff and this is the result after color sanding and buffing by hand.




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I think most of the chrome will come out pretty nice
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Track T 2411
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#2

Post by Track T 2411 »

The compression numbers are tolerable, for sure. My 1100 started out with 110 to 120, but rose significantly with a little exercise. Go for it!
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#3

Post by Rat »

Sounds like a great find ....

I just bought a $600. GL1100 but I used Canadian dollars .... so that's about 19.65 in US$

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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#4

Post by raiddrten »

You guys are very encouraging, so i will go with listing the good and the bad. The good has to be the overall cosmetic and structural condition, and that includes the frame. All the OEM paint is there on the frame and is shiny. No evident amount of corrosion anywhere, and about the only things i want to repaint are the battery holder [minor rust] and the center stand. Now is the time to get at accessible things. replacing a rear tire that is 20 years old and nearly bald makes a good opportunity to remove the gas tank and clean it, and then one thing led to another and the entire rear frame and shaft drive is spotless. I told you that it is hard not to want to detail an old bike instead of making it run, but the odd hour here and there beats watching TV
Now the tank is clean by a fast electrolysis method https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64235 and the carbs are as clean as I know how without splitting them in two. maybe someone will advise me why the center plenum seal should be replaced [every time?] or not. Going to use Kei-Hin O-Rings or perhaps get the famous kit. still mulling it over. the carb seats are OEM, but this bike has short needles and the plungers are stiff on two of them anyway. Found some Kei Hin replacement needles from a NGW site vendor

I need valve cover gaskets and of course timing belts and the rear fender needs replaced. The PO lost the tank badges and the fuel pump/tach group.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#5

Post by robin1731 »

Split the plenum. There are also seals where the carb meets the plenum. And after sitting for 20 years all the rubber is hard. If you mean the float valve needles when you say "carb seats" stay away from aftermarket. Trust me they can give you too mush trouble. You can still buy new float valve needle assemblies from Honda.

And use Randakks kit. All the other aftermarket kits, and OEM, use regular rubber. The fuel we have these days is not good on that.

Also after 20 years why would you risk not taking the carbs completely apart and cleaning them completely and replacing all the rubber parts. ;)

.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#6

Post by Graham Cracker »

$300 and it runs? Now THAT'S my kind of project! Another one saved action1
Mark

1975 GL 1000 Candy Antares Red
1976 GL 1000 Sulfur Yellow
1977 GL 1000 Pearl White
1978 GL 1000 Candy Limited Maroon
raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#7

Post by raiddrten »

Well, you cannot really say that it runs until it runs for a bit and at least warms up. We don't know what we don't know at this point, but one has to be somewhat optimistic after working on a few Hondas before this one. When there is enough compression, spark, and timing to light her off without the carbs being installed, then hope remains strong

I think my game plan at this point is getting the leaking valve cover gaskets replaced,and borrowing an electric fuel pump and tank from a garden tractor. Once the thing fires up and runs without some horrible noise from the bottom end or something, then it is time to put things right
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#8

Post by Track T 2411 »

You really don't even need the electric fuel pump. I just gravity-fed my 1100 while I was working on it by putting the tank on top of the frame. Worked fine for me...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#9

Post by raiddrten »

As soon as I know that the engine has no hidden problems, then Randakks it is....

I looked at Josie and some her carbs and spline drive from the albums, and i feel better and better about what I have. Hats of to you, Track T for wading in to a project like that. I am trying to make good decisions and not buy too many parts until i know more about whether this bike has a decent bottom end.You just have to hear them run to get an assessment on that.
Based on how good the parts look and lack of wear and general condition of the bike, i feel pretty good about things. Frame is an 8 or 9, engine case appearance is a 9. Lack of serious corrosion on aluminum casework is 7-8, so I feel $300.00 on a bike like this is a no lose situation. With 98000 on the clock, I cannot believe it looks this good.

I owe you guys piccs for sure. I have my better camera ready
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#10

Post by gltriker »

raiddrten wrote:Well, you cannot really say that it runs until it runs for a bit and at least warms up. We don't know what we don't know at this point, but one has to be somewhat optimistic after working on a few Hondas before this one. When there is enough compression, spark, and timing to light her off without the carbs being installed, then hope remains strong

I think my game plan at this point is getting the leaking valve cover gaskets replaced,and borrowing an electric fuel pump and tank from a garden tractor. Once the thing fires up and runs without some horrible noise from the bottom end or something, then it is time to put things right
Replace the rubber grommets on the valve cover screws, too. ;)
When the grommets get old and compressed, the valve cover gaskets won't receive adequate compression to seal correctly.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#11

Post by Track T 2411 »

gltriker wrote:
raiddrten wrote:Well, you cannot really say that it runs until it runs for a bit and at least warms up. We don't know what we don't know at this point, but one has to be somewhat optimistic after working on a few Hondas before this one. When there is enough compression, spark, and timing to light her off without the carbs being installed, then hope remains strong

I think my game plan at this point is getting the leaking valve cover gaskets replaced,and borrowing an electric fuel pump and tank from a garden tractor. Once the thing fires up and runs without some horrible noise from the bottom end or something, then it is time to put things right
Replace the rubber grommets on the valve cover screws, too. ;)
When the grommets get old and compressed, the valve cover gaskets won't receive adequate compression to seal correctly.
A tip on installing the new gaskets and grommets: use the old grommets when first seating the gaskets, then replace with new, one at a time. The holes in the cover can ruin the new grommet. Ask me how I know...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#12

Post by raiddrten »

This bike looks pretty nice for its age. Some piccs

From what I have seen on some of the builds, I am pretty fortunate to have only a bit of rust on the under frame at the center stand and solid mufflers. My buddy assures me that he can make a solid repair where the header pipe joins the one side I looked hard and cannot find any sign that the engine was ever re-painted. If you can see the streaks that look like water stains on the chrome piece, that is from battery acid. I used Mothers mag and chrome polish and a six inch buffing wheel mounted to a 4 inch grinder and they are still visible from six inches rather than ten feet. Sorry there is no "after' picture, but is is hard to get a good photo of chrome anyway

i cannot recommend using the mini grinder as a buffing platform, because if you catch an edge it can be an adventure

Harbor Freight makes a little 90 degree " Air Angle Die Grinder" and a #43029 fiber disc sanding kit. If you use them with a light touch, they can take off the oxidation of the aluminum valve covers and front timing belt covers. Using the larger wheels on the small mounting base makes the wheel able to flex and not dig into the surface. If you can feel any scratches with a thumbnail, you are doing it wrong and this method is not for you
After the fiber disc use 600 and then 1200 sanding paper and maybe up to 2000 as an option with W-D 40 to erase the tiny marks left behind, it is a whole lot easier to do than starting from scratch on oxidized metal. Then power buff in the mag polish and then clean it off and follow that up with more mag polish applied by hand. Not trying to be the buffing expert here, but it can get you close enough to continue with the real experts if you want perfection

Anyway, my buffing attempt pleases me pretty much as it is. I would have had some parts coming by now, but it would be my luck that thy would arrive during a short visit with my daughter
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raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#13

Post by raiddrten »

Here are the comparison shots of raw and finished on the aluminum covers. The polished cover looks better and the oxidized one looks worse in person than the photos show. [if that makes any sense]
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#14

Post by ericheath »

I suggest you pull your brake lever as it has some rust there. They tend to suddenly decide to stick in the applied position. It’s pretty easy now. Clean it up and grease it. You can put a zerk for grease there but it has to be placed properly. There was a How To here somewhere years ago. Looks like a good platform for $300.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#15

Post by rcmatt007 »

:popcornx2 this will be fun to watch
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