Mr.H's new engine

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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#121

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Sidecar Bob wrote:I also have to see if I can figure out how to get the driveshaft to re-engage with the final drive without having to remove the rear wheel and FD before I can start installing the engine....
OK, I got confused. It has been 12 years since I last had Mr.H's engine out and in the meantime I've had Eccles' engine out 7 or 8 times so its not surprising that I would get the differences mixed up. When I take Eccles' engine out and I'm planning to do a bunch of cleanup before I put it back I grab the u-joint and pull the driveshaft out so I can put it where it will stay clean. So, naturally, when I removed Mr.H's engine I tried to do the same thing. When It didn't come out I remembered that it had a removable joint on the other end that was held on by a circlip so I pushed it back in. And, of course, tried turning it to make sure the splines had engaged. But no matter how hard I pushed or how much I turned the shaft or the wheel it wouldn't engage so I left it for later and moved on to cleaning the frame, figuring I'd try again before I put the new engine in.

I sat down beside it yesterday and pushed the shaft rearward while rotating the wheel, hoping that would lift the fallen end of the shaft enough that it could slide onto the splines on the final drive. After a while I gave up and proceeded to to remove the wheel & FD. When I got them out I noticed that the end of the shaft (or actually the joint) was about where it would have to be if it was engaged with the FD's splines. What the heck? So I put the drive back on the swingarm and tried again, this time being careful to make sure that the end of the shaft was around the end of the FD and tried to turn the shaft only to find that it was not making the splines that engage the wheel turn. As you can imagine, I was beginning to think the worst as I removed the FD again but no, when I turned the input the output did tun and when U turned the u-joint the joint on the other end of the shaft turned and in both cases if I tried to stop one end I felt resistance at the other.

After a bit more fiddling I realized that if you push the driveshaft all the way back it disengages from the FD but if you pull it forward to where it would be if attached to the engine it is solidly engaged. So I had spent all the work time I had for the day and removed the wheel & FD all for nothing.

Well, in my best lemonade making style I decided it would be easier to clean up the caliper and replace the pads without the wheel in the way. And it wouldn't hurt to clean everything out so it can go back together with fresh grease and I might as well replace the o-ring on the hub since I now keep suitable o-rings in stock (both bikes take the same size and a lot of 10 was cheap in eBay)
BTW: I had one of those ancient o-rings break on Eccles a few years ago, dirt got into the grease I had to find a new spline flange.

And I had a hard time making myself move in the heat (now that the sun has gone down it has "cooled" to 30c) so that's all I got done today. I'll put the wheel & FD back on tomorrow...
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#122

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I thought you guys might like to see how an old guy like me moves an engine from the bench to the bike by himself.

I use a cable puller as a winch, attached to a track from a medical lift. The track is rated for 300 Lb when attached to 3 ceiling joists with 5/16" lag screws.
Track for winch.JPG
Track for winch.JPG (50.98 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Engine attached to winch with chains, ready to lift
Lifting engine 1.JPG
Lifting engine 1.JPG (106.96 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Lifting engine off or bench. The ceiling is parallel to the floor (which is pitched for drainage) so the trolley in the track wants to move to the low end as soon as the engine begins to lift from the bench.
Lifting engine 2.JPG
Lifting engine 2.JPG (91.97 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Positioning engine over dolly. The dolly is made from a piece of 3/4" plywood with melamine laminate attached to 2 pieces of 2x4 for the casters to attach to.
Lifting engine 3.JPG
Lifting engine 3.JPG (87.25 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Lowering the engine
Lifting engine 4.JPG
Lifting engine 4.JPG (95.64 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#123

Post by Sidecar Bob »

When we moved here I built a load bearing wall down the middle of the garage to support the ceiling and the floor of the storage attic above. Because vehicles parked inside the garage would drip salty water in the winter I decided I didn't want to screw the bottom of the wall to the floor so I made its sill continuous, which means that there is a 2x6 running across the bottom of both doorways in that wall. It only matters when I have to move something heavy from one side of the garage to the other. But I've done it enough times now that I have a system: First I roll the item to be moved to the doorway.
Moving engine 1.JPG
Moving engine 1.JPG (99.57 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Next I step over it and lift the first end across the sill (I didn't think you'd want to see me from behind while bending down to lift it so there's no pic of that step) and then I step back over it and lift the other end across
Moving engine 2.JPG
Moving engine 2.JPG (101.92 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Note that I lowered the engine directly onto the dolly so that I wouldn't have to balance it on blocking while manoeuvring over the sill. Once the engine is in the other side of the garage I need to move the winch to the fixed attachment point in there, lift the engine again and set it up on blocking so that it overhangs one edge of the dolly (this is necessary because if it doesn't overhang like that the dolly will hit the centrestand before the engine is in place).
Moving engine 3.JPG
Moving engine 3.JPG (94.66 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#124

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Next I roll the engine under the frame and manoeuvre it into place. This was not as easy as it sounds. Remember I mentioned that hte driveshaft could be pushed into the swingarm past where the splines engaged? And remember I mentioned fresh grease? Well, the first thing I did today was pump grease into the zerk on the final drive so I wouldn't forget to do that later. BIG mistake. The grease I had pumped in there wouldn't let me push the driveshaft inward so I had to undo the final drive from the swingarm and remove the axle so that I could move the FD away from the swingarm and relieve the pressure. After that I got the u-joint onto the final shaft easily, put the axle back in, did everything up again on the rear end, got the lower right mounting bolt into place, added the removable frame section and got the lower left mounting bolt in.
Installing engine 1.JPG
Installing engine 1.JPG (101.35 KiB) Viewed 621 times
Next, the "bolt" (really a long stud) that goes through the bottom of the engine was added and the blocking & dolly could be removed
Installing engine 2.JPG
Installing engine 2.JPG (96.69 KiB) Viewed 621 times
And the last step today was adding the sidecar subframe.
Installing engine 3.JPG
Installing engine 3.JPG (100.17 KiB) Viewed 621 times
BTW: I just started a thread about how my sidecar is attached https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 97#p729397

Edit: typo fixed
Last edited by Sidecar Bob on Sun Jul 29, 2018 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#125

Post by ericheath »

“I didn't think you'd want to see me from behind while bending down to lift it so there's no pic of that step.”

Good call. LOL

Motor looks great.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#126

Post by Sidecar Bob »

BTW: If you want to see more pics of what the garage/shop looks like (or looked like after I did some renovations & tidied it up a couple of years ago) look here

Not a lot of progress the last couple of days but some
5 July 2018.JPG
5 July 2018.JPG (101.82 KiB) Viewed 609 times
I've been wanting a set of JBM Carb Sockets for a long time (& even mentioned them on NGW in the past) but at almost $200 CAD with shipping and I couldn't make myself pay that much. A friend on another forum sent me a set of them, complete with powder coated manifolds (I bought some Norma-Torro stainless steel clamps to go with them) and I spent most of yesterday's shop time trying to make them work. The lip on the manifold side is wider at the top and narrower on the bottom and they have the notch to index with the bump on the carb so I figured the best way to make sure they were lined up correctly would be to clamp them to the carbs, then insert the manifolds, line them up, clamp them in and bolt them down. But when I bolted the left manifolds down the holes in the right ones were far outboard of the holes in the right head. After several emails back & forth with JBM (in which they kept suggesting I had them misaligned) it occurred to me to try loosening all the clamps and try putting 1 bolt in each manifold on one side, screw them about half way in, then push the manifolds on the other side into line. I had to push pretty hard but it worked and I managed to get all of the screws in. I had removed the o-rings so I wouldn't pinch them while experimenting so then I unbolted the manifolds one at a time to put the o-rings in and finally did up the clamps.

Based eon the pics on their site I didn't expect the sockets to look very good (at least they won't leak) but with the stainless clamps they don't look bad at all
Image
Image

I also found something else to paint (the left crash bar - needed to support the highway peg) and modified the u clamp that attaches the sidecar subframe to the bike frame next to the oil filter (I'd swear it is closer to the filter than it was with the old engine), spent a bunch of time looking for the jam nut from the dipstick (my wife is going to try to get me a new one before she comes home from the city tomorrow) and a bunch more fiddly stuff like that (I'll probably install the new speakers before I go back to FSM's engine installation chapter).
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#127

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The next step, according to the FSM, is to attach the wires to the rad shroud and bolt it on. If you have the carbs out it would be much easier to do this before installing the carbs. Really, really easier. Also, if you put the torque rods on the wrong side of the shroud it won't go on no matter how hard you try :oops: And the bolts will seem about 5mm too long if you forget the washers & lockwashers :oops: :oops:

Some of you may have noticed the new Suzuki fan thermo switch that I bought for $10 CAD incl. shipping on eBay. It looks really good but for that price I don't know how much I trust it so I decided to make jumpers so the connection would be reversible if necessary
Suzuki temp switch connected.JPG
Suzuki temp switch connected.JPG (60.36 KiB) Viewed 591 times
Then I decided this would be a good time to add a parade switch and an LED to indicate when the fan is on. After studying the schematic I decided the best way to connect it would be to connect to the black wire that runs from the thermo switch to the connector for the fan (its the blue wire in this pic).
Wire for parade switch.JPG
Wire for parade switch.JPG (70.86 KiB) Viewed 591 times
My maintenance log note about the switch & light. The series diode is to block current flowing back from the fan circuit just in case. The diode in parallel to the LED is to protect it from reverse spikes (I haven't had an LED fail on a bike since I started adding them).
maint. log LED circuit.jpg
maint. log LED circuit.jpg (72.97 KiB) Viewed 591 times
Next I added another terminal strip inside the speaker box, drilled a couple of holes through the angle and the front panel and wired in the switch & LED (note the new speakers - much larger magnets and co-axial tweeters - quite an upgrade).
Parade switch & indicator (rear).JPG
Parade switch & indicator (rear).JPG (243.81 KiB) Viewed 591 times
Temporarily connected to a battery
Parade switch & indicator installed.JPG
Parade switch & indicator installed.JPG (119.97 KiB) Viewed 591 times
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#128

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I forgot to mention that I couldn't find the jam nut for the dipstick assembly. I thought I had put it on a shelf next to the crush washer but it wasn't there and I have a vague recollection of putting it somewhere safe but I can't for the life of me remember where. No biggie; There were a couple of used ones in the bucket of used large metric hardware but they would need to be cleaned up and re-plated. I had been using an old battery charger someone gave me for a power supply with the cover off and using a multimeter to monitor the current but I had acquired the parts to turn it into a real plating supply and I didn't want to use it again until I finished the supply (there went another couple of days).
plating nuts.JPG
plating nuts.JPG (101.2 KiB) Viewed 573 times
Today I put on the rad and the dipstick. The rad was easy; I spent almost as much time buffing a couple of acorn nuts for it as I did mounting the rad & grille. Of course, I added the lower rad hose and water pump cap and did everything up securely, (working inside the sidecar subframe), which also took almost as much time as mounting the rad too.
15 July 2018.JPG
15 July 2018.JPG (111.97 KiB) Viewed 573 times
I expected the dipstick to be easy too since it was already adjusted to fit the old engine. The first thing I realized was that I couldn't turn the part that screws into the drain plug hole properly with the water pump cap in the way and the screw that had to come out to bolt on the support for the dipstick tube would be easier to get at with the lower hose removed so off came the hose and the cap. With the piece screwed into the drain screw hole it should have been a simple matter to sit the end of the tube into the fitting, line everything up, put the screw in and tighten everything up. But for some reason the hole in the bracket (which is welded to the tube) didn't line up with the hole for the screw. And I don't mean slightly misaligned, I mean the hole in the bracket didn't overlap the hole in the engine at all, almost as if one of the holes in the engine is in a different place. So first I pushed the olive up the tube a bit and cut about 6mm off of the bottom end and then I tweaked the bracket a bit and the bottom lined up but then it hit the fan shroud so I had to tweak that too. What I expected to take 5 minutes ended up taking almost 2 hours and I'll have to change t he marks on the dipstick but it is finally done.
Lower front of engine.JPG
Lower front of engine.JPG (67.98 KiB) Viewed 573 times
Dipstick.JPG
Dipstick.JPG (90.38 KiB) Viewed 573 times
The FSM says it needs 4L of oil after disassembly but I poured in 3 and it is almost at the high mark on the sight glass so I'll leave the other litre until after I get the battery in it and pump some oil through.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#129

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Can you see the differences between yesterday's pic and today's?
16 July 2018.JPG
16 July 2018.JPG (103 KiB) Viewed 558 times
- I bolted the old exhaust back on. I have some better headers and I plan to see if I can get some nicer Harley mufflers (at very least ones that haven't been used for 21 years) but that will have to wait for next year so the old stuff will have to do for the rest of this year.
- Once the left header was hanging from the studs I installed the crash bar. (It doesn't have/need one on the right because of the sidecar.)
- I removed the battery from the mower and installed in the 'Wing. They will have to share the battery this year because I want to convert the 'Wing to a U1 battery like the 650 has (the bikes will probably share that battery). I'll have to put it back in the mower in a couple of days when I cut the grass...
- If you are really observant you will have noticed that the table on the right is bare. I have to put it away as soon as I finish posting because a friend will be picking me up in the morning to help him with something at his place all day and when he brings me home he's going to help me move the sidecar from where I stored it. That means that I'll have to move the bike so this is the last in progress pic from that angle.
Stuff you can't see:
- I mixed coolant and filled the cooling system.
- I installed & timed the Dyna S.
- I disconnected the fuel line from the bike's tank so I could prime the float bowls (I use a funnel and a measuring cup). When I poured the fuel in I noticed it coming out around the stem of the tank selector valve so I had to remove the cover and valve from the top of the pump and connect the line that feeds the pump directly to the tank's filter. I'll worry about fixing or replacing the valve later.
- The engine started immediately, as if it had been running just yesterday. There was a small amount of smoke from the left side but it stopped after a few seconds and there was quite a bit of smoke from the muffler tape on the headers (& the masking tape that the instructions said to use to keep it in place while it bakes) but I'm sure that will go away after it has been driven a bit.

BTW: While I was working on the exhaust I put a wrench on the rotor bolt and turned it over a bunch of times, which lowered the oil level to just about even with the screw in the sight glass so I put the new mark on the dipstick and added another half litre to bring it back to the high mark. After I ran it for a while I added the rest of that litre; The level is above the sight glass but I expect it will go down after the engine has been run a bit more.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Track T 2411
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#130

Post by Track T 2411 »

Whoop whoop! It's alive! action1 action1 action1

I'm curious about your plating setup. What exactly are you plating with?
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#131

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Its a basic zinc plating setup. My electrolyte started as water, white vinegar and epsom salts but the more you use it the more zinc it absorbs (you do have to occasionally add more of the original ingredients). After that all you need is a non-conductive container, some zinc (I am using pieces of zinc roof strip) and a power supply. You just hang your cleaned part in the solution, connect a power supply (+ to zinc, - to part) and plate away.

My plating seems to hold up well enough on the summer machine but it doesn't like winter. I would like to start passivating the plating to make it more durable but I don't want to work with the chemicals involved.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#132

Post by Sidecar Bob »

1) I replaced the o-ring on the tank selector valve's stem and I think it is OK now.
2) I had a small fuelling/carburetion problem when I was last driving this machine https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 9&p=676495
In order to get the idle close to where it should be I ended up with the idle screw backed out to where it was no longer touching the stop on the throttle disc (not sure if that's the right name - the round thing that the throttle cable pulls on) and even then it sometimes wanted to idle a bit high. Yes, the carbs were balanced (within 1/2" on the mercury manometer at all RPM) and no, the cable was not too tight (there was more than adequate slack when the twistgrip was at its stop).
While the carbs were off I went over the linkages, thinking that something might be hanging up somewhere but I couldn't find anything so I turned the screw in until it just began to push on the stop and rotate the throttle disc and expected to have to adjust it when I adjusted the carbs for the new engine.
When the engine warmed up enough to take the choke off on Monday it was, if anything, idling a bit low. (I'll adjust it when I balance the carbs).
I was pleased about that but it has been bothering me all week. While I was re-installing the selector valve it occurred that a high idle can be caused by leaks between the carbs & the engine. I wonder if the change from the old manifolds with the very hard rubber parts to the JBM carb sockets is what lowered the idle?
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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salukispeed
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#133

Post by salukispeed »

Really looks good and will be so nice to get back on the road, Nice work!
Honda 72 CL100 sold
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1970 CT 70
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Mr.H's new engine

#134

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I made the speaker/wiring box 5 years ago from the bottom half of an old plastic toolbox with a front panel made of ABS sheet and attached with aluminum angle. As you can see in the pics here, by the time replaced the crappy eBay/China instrument panel with a Danmoto 180 a couple of years ago the sides of the box had started to bulge out between the screws and I started thinking about adding some sort of trim to hold then straight. Since everything else was going to be shiny & nice I decided it was time to do something about it so I got a strip of 1/8 x 3/4" aluminum and spent most of Friday bending a piece of it into "garnish" (the term Honda uses for the fairing trim piece) for box, then buffing it. The sharp eyed may have noticed that I replaced the speaker volume knob with a polished metal one when I added the parade switch and now the radio power switch with a new one so that it can have a rubber weather boot like the parade switch.
Spkr+wiring box garnish 1.JPG
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Spkr+wiring box garnish 2.JPG
Spkr+wiring box garnish 2.JPG (101.43 KiB) Viewed 498 times
By Saturday evening (21st) the bike & sidecar were attached again but that just meant I could roll it around without having to bother with kickstands and there was still a lot more to be done before the test drive. By the time I took this pic on Monday I had attached the wires that go to the rear of the sidecar as they were before and added a couple of connectors outside the speaker/wiring box so that if I ever need to separate the bike & sidecar again I won't have to open the box to disconnect some of the wires from the front of sidecar like I did this time.
Together again.JPG
Together again.JPG (130.71 KiB) Viewed 498 times
I was out most of Tuesday but I had it close enough to done to drive up & down the driveway a few times so I rolled it out of the garage, switched the selector valve to the tank on the sidecar and fired it up but it stalled when I tried I to pull away. I hadn't driven in 3 months so I figured I just hadn't clutched right but it wouldn't re-start. Then I noticed that I hadn't connected the other end of the line to the tank :oops: A few seconds later it was running again and I had time to go up & down the driveway, adjust the clutch and go up & down a couple more times before the rain started.

Wednesday I bolted down the seat & shelter, attached the windshield, popped on the side cover and drove to the post office to pick up the mail for the first time since April, then took it outside of town to the east and ran it up to 100+ Km/h (80 zone) for a few Km, turned around and came back through town at 50 Km/h in 5th gear (something I was never able to do with the old engine, even without the sidecar) out of the west end of town a few Km to make sure it would accelerate from 50 to 100 while climbing the hill, turned around on the other side of the hill and made sure it would pull away in 2nd and accelerate back up the hill, a pretty good test in about 10 Km.

Before I take it too far away I need to bleed the back brake and balance the carbs and it is still smoking a bit (hopefully just because the oil is still waaayyy too high) but as far as the overall gearing goes the transplant was definitely successful.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Sidecar Bob
Honored Life Member
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Posts: 7630
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:14 pm
Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario

Re: Mr.H's new engine

#135

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Oh yeah, before I bolted the shelter back on I touched up its paint and added knee pads. These pads look & feel nice and should keep my knees from wearing the paint so much in the future but the peel & stick that came on them was terrible. Not only was there about a cm around the edges without any, what there was wouldn't it stick to the sides of the shelter. and it didn't even stick well to the pads themselves. I replaced it with Macmount tape all the way out to the edges and they seem to be on pretty securely now
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Mr.H 25 Jyly 2018 1.jpg
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Mr.H 25 Jyly 2018 2.jpg
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Mr.H 25 Jyly 2018 3.jpg
Mr.H 25 Jyly 2018 3.jpg (133.77 KiB) Viewed 497 times
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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