Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

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keebler64
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Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#1

Post by keebler64 »

I was looking for inspiration to name the beast, and came upon this:

Image

So I bought it.

I felt like it was serendipity because I was stationed at Minot AFB for 4 years as a Nuclear Cruise Missile Technician. I worked directly with the B-52's. As I'm also from DFW, and I have fond memories of B-52's flying overhead out of Carswell AFB, Forth Worth, Tx as a kid. Also ironically, the equipment I used to diagnose the missiles was built in 1978.

If anyone knows of another bike by the same name, please let me know and I'll change it.

Here's the starting point of where we're at so far: 1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Image

Not much to look at, but she's almost all there.

Image

She's Rusty for sure, almost every exposed piece of metal is corroded.

Image

Before even leaving for the new hangar, I stripped her naked.

First thing I did, besides prepping the fluids, is buy new spark plugs, and battery, and of course followed Randakk's Blog on long-Layup starting: http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a- ... ng-lay-up/

Sure enough, after a quick hotwire (no key), and a few spins of the starter, she fired right up. The first time in almost 10 years. (Judging by her appearance, maybe longer?)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zih7VPGQ9pQ[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zih7VPG ... e=youtu.be

Got it stripped down now, it needs:
  • Timing Belts
    New ignition key
    Choke cable
    Throttle cable
    Brake lines
    Fuel Lines
    Wiring harness
    Center stand needs to be Re-welded
    Right side exhaust is rusted through
    All fairings need to be stripped and painted. (was red?, then blue, then spray painted black, badly
    Tires
    Gauge cluster
    headlight bezel
    Valve cover gaskets
    Air Filterbox Gasket
    Pretty much every screw and bolt is rusted.
Funny enough, the parts-bike might become a fully functioning bike now that the Missus has started to express "creative input ideas" on my bike. She's even referred to it as "our bike" to her friends. She's genuinely excited. So once I finish painting the garage and organizing, I'll get to work on making her look and work properly.
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
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flyin900
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#2

Post by flyin900 »

Welcome to the wonderful world of restoration.

You have a good starting point there and the rust is pretty easy to take care of with a little work. Nice to hear the better half is onside with the resto too. Lots of good people on here and the Shoptalk section is chock full of tips and tricks.
Looks like you have the key items listed to look after initially.

Keep the posts and pics coming.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Track T 2411
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#3

Post by Track T 2411 »

Love the name!
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#4

Post by keebler64 »

Hehe, so I misinterpreted the Odometer... It's not 26K, its probably 226K miles. That explains the blue RTV on the heads and valve cover gaskets, the rust inside the Tach and Speedo, as well as the broken welds. It also sounds like it is in serious need of a valve job. I've definitely got my work cutout for me.

I just spent all Easter painting the garage. Dumped 10 gallons of paint on the walls and ceiling. Putting in commercial carpet tiles to make for a nice comfy work area/gym. Doing a Plywood wall to make mounting organizational equipment easier.

As soon as the garage is organized, I'm going Full Tilt. Going to do a complete Engine + Carb rebuild. While that's going on, getting an appointment setup to Powdercoat the frame and swing arm. Still working out a color scheme.

The master and slave cylinders are pretty dry rotted, and I thought it would be interesting to mill my own out of billet aluminum (I teach Industrial Robotics and Automation at a college w/ full machine and welding shop). Has anyone done their own before? I'd like to avoid plastic if possible. I do have a decent spare Master I can use in the interim.

Also, anyone use any third party Speedo/Tach, or combo from an older/newer bike? My needles are rusty, and the face plates are faded, as well as the metal surrounds. The speedo from The Behemoth gave me some inspiration (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ce2QLXIRBSI/ ... acer-5.JPG)

I think that's about it for now. Oh, and I did plop the battery into the Parts Bike w/ the engine that supposdely only has 22K on it, and sure enough, it had pretty decent compression. However the valves stems looked pretty rusty (carb was removed at some point), it'd probably be best to rebuild the heads/motor completely, yeah?
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
MegaDan
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#5

Post by MegaDan »

Before deciding on a full rebuild, I would say take it down methodically. Some corrosion on the valve stems may not be a problem, especially if it is not corroded through the guides at all. The bigger concern would be if any water made it's way into the cylinders. Taking the heads off might be a good place to start.

Definitely search around about potential upgrades as well. One very popular upgrade that many do, myself included, is changing to a smaller bore master cylinder to give better feel and power to the front brakes. As far as the caliper pistons go, there are stainless steel ones available from wingovations He also just managed to get some bearings created for the 1000 engines as well, which may interest you if you decide to go full rebuild.
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#6

Post by keebler64 »

MegaDan wrote:Before deciding on a full rebuild, I would say take it down methodically. Some corrosion on the valve stems may not be a problem, especially if it is not corroded through the guides at all. The bigger concern would be if any water made it's way into the cylinders. Taking the heads off might be a good place to start.

Definitely search around about potential upgrades as well. One very popular upgrade that many do, myself included, is changing to a smaller bore master cylinder to give better feel and power to the front brakes. As far as the caliper pistons go, there are stainless steel ones available from wingovations He also just managed to get some bearings created for the 1000 engines as well, which may interest you if you decide to go full rebuild.

Thank you for the info. I'll definitely look into them! As far as water in the cylinders, well, when I cranked it, water shot out of the spark plug holes. Ha.

I'll take some pictures today and post them.
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#7

Post by keebler64 »

As I start to work out the "image" I want to achieve, I'm building a list of all the things mechanically wrong and in need of repair. The most obvious is any frame damage, and in this case, the Center Stand welds are completely toast. Looks like multiple failed repairs on top of each other. This sent me down the rabbit hole of ideas. What about just deleting the center stand entirely? For several reasons:

1) Makes the repair process somewhat easier.
2) Reduces at least 3-6 lbs
3) Makes for a more streamlined appearance
4) Reduces drag? Lol

http://imgur.com/a/YmdxX

I understand that for most road surfaces the kickstand would suffice, and that I would need to be leary of any soft soil, less I care around a plate to distribute the weight (which I might do).. So are there any MUST HAVE reasons for keeping the center stand? The only one I can think of is for added strength/support, but given it's location, and the role of the swing arm, and engine mounts, does it really add that much strength? (Especially since the welds are breaking?)

The idea I'm currently floating around is a cross between a Scrambler or strange Hybrid-dual sport. The roads in and around Dallas are truly horrific, and the fiance/missus and I also like to do a bit of Adventure Camping, so that's kinda the premise behind the idea. That and I consider myself a Minimalist/Industrialist, which combined with my Military Background, kinda gives even more credence to the Dual Functionality of the imagery.
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
MegaDan
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#8

Post by MegaDan »

I would say that if you want to eliminate the center stand and the frame section wo2th it then it would be a good idea to weld in a tube in place of the factory unit. I just restored and replaced my missing center stand for maintenance and storage purposes. The couple of pounds I added on were made up for by the lithium battery I just put in that shed 10lbs. For riding I am simply going to take the stand off until it is needed again.
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#9

Post by keebler64 »

Trying to decide if I should restore these or just replace them. The needles are very rusty, faces are faded, and the shells are scratched and faded.

Part of me wants to restore everything that's not obviously broken beyond repair, and the other part of me just wants to get it looking and working good as fast as possible. That said, I do have some interesting ideas for paint/printing the faces.

Image
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#10

Post by keebler64 »

After hours/weeks/days of research, I think I've decided to not go the conventional route with the wiring harness and gauges. My day job is Industrial Automation and Robotics Instructor for Dallas County Community College, so I thought about incorporating those skills into creating a custom wiring harness with micro-relays, mini-fuses, and integrated Rectifier/Regulator (from a newer bike). Some inspiration was garnered from the motogadget line, but I wasn't really digging their integrated switch options or indicators. Additionally, I wasn't entirely sure their setup would work with our Stator+Ignition+Rectifier safely. I have access to a full Manual and CNC Machine shop, as well as my Electronics lab, so again, why not use it? I plan on getting an actual PCB printed with all the relays/fuses in one place. Luckily the GL1000 wiring system is already pretty basic. I'll release all the files as Open Source (GPL3) on Github once I get officially started on the design process.


I do have some questions:

Am I correct in my understanding that the 7VDC from the Regulator is solely for the Fuel/Temp gauges? I've seen the other 3rd party Regulators, and I wonder if it's just a standard 12V-7VDC LDO, or an LM317/LM338 Adjustable (I favor the LM338). Does anyone know the current draw of the gauges? (I've already stripped the electrical and left everything on the bench at work otherwise I'd test here.) I can't decide if I'll be using the stock gauges or not. Every single gauge needs to be torn apart and repainted. I thought about upgrading the fuel/temp gauge to a 12V. Anyone have any input for or against this idea?

The more I get into this, the more I want to customize.

Also, I want to run a LiPo-FE battery with and upgraded Rectifier from a newer bike. I've seen others do it on some CB750's and such, and like their execution. I'd like to save space/weight and the AGM and LeadAcid batteries are pretty bulky, and I seriously doubt our 38 year old Charging System is capable of safely charging any modern battery. I'd like to not have to re-invent the wheel and build my own rectifier, and the fact that some Lithium Motorcycle batteries even have their own BMS, encourages me. EDIT: I did a more broad search, and found all the information I was asking regarding batteries. Definitely going LIPO4/LiFEPO.

I'm starting to get frenetic, but I can't help it. This is so much fun working on a motorcycle. I don't think you can get any closer to just pure man+machine. I regret waiting so long, and spending so much time/money on my old Jeep/VW Addiction.
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
MegaDan
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#11

Post by MegaDan »

As far as the reg/rec upgrade. Do it. I just did a Mosfet upgrade from a CB600f4i on mine a couple of weeks ago.

I don't know if my build thread came up in your searching, but if you go to post 26 it shows what I did for mine.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 4&start=15
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#12

Post by Goboy »

Check NunzioGL's build in the Underground customizing forum for ideas on customizing the instrument faces.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=nunziogl
You're too small to ride a hog Billy!

Mike
1978 GL1000
Previous bikes: 05 Yamaha FJR 1300, 79 Suzuki GS 1000, 75 Yamaha XS 650, 73 Kawasaki S2 350
keebler64
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#13

Post by keebler64 »

Small Update:

Went though a mini-crisis and almost sold the bikes for $200, after several failed attempts at selling them, I decided to keep them and continue as planned. Debating on scrapping the one with the title though as it needs to be rewelded in more than just the kickstand area. The untitled frame in in relatively better shape. Both need a thorough sandblasting though. I've almost considered buying a third parts bike that's less rusty. Also, in starting the motor to keep it running smooth, I accidentally bumped the battery positive terminal into the frame while starting it, which caused my starter to short to ground. Luckily the parts bike cranks fine.

Anyway, I've been keeping a spreadsheet of how much I've spent, and how much I THINK I'll need to spend, if anyone sees something I've missed, let me know.

:D

Image
https://i.imgur.com/fnFJJeH.png
1976 GL1000 - no name yet
1978 GL1000 "Bombshell" - viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62876 [SOLD]
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ericheath
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#14

Post by ericheath »

It sounds like you have knowledge of electrical systems. When you get to it, I’d love to hear your opinion on the LIFEPO4 batteries. I have one and it’s been great after initial failures.

My opinion has been that lower rpm ranges with stock regulators may not charge the LIFEPO4 batteries enough. Mine was not charging enough and the bike was dying while riding around the city at slower speeds. This was with a relay sending the sense wire to a direct battery reading. When I removed the relay, replaced the sense wire going through the several 40 year-old connectors, the battery has been fine.

I’m wondering if LIFEPO4 batteries should be equipped with their own adjustable regulators. Resting state of a lead acid is 12.6volts (6x2.1v)while the LIFEPO4 is 13.8 (4x3.2v). This shows the needs for a full charge difference fairly well to me.
F0DBA7B0-C5BA-4914-9F39-3300D065C502.jpeg
F0DBA7B0-C5BA-4914-9F39-3300D065C502.jpeg (45.74 KiB) Viewed 311 times
If the float charge rate is 13.8v, like most automotive regulators, the LIFEPO4 battery is never being fully charged.

Most manufacturers warn not to charge above 14.4v but I have found other sources which say they are safe to charge up to 4.2 volts per Cell. When I check my resting battery with a dvm it is often 14.6 volts or more. I was worried and would purposely leave the headlight on for five-ten seconds to pull it down below the 14.4 threshold. I worried that extended driving might overcharge it, but I have quit worrying about it.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
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desertrefugee
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Re: Project "Bombshell" begin's now...

#15

Post by desertrefugee »

A brief "short to ground" should have done nothing harmful to the starter motor. Not sure why you'd think you'll need to reach to the parts bin. (Unless it was a prolonged short and overheating/melting resulted).

Keep the faith on the project. Just the satisfaction alone of "getting it going" is worth the effort. The bonus is an able road warrior.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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