Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

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Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#31

Post by Taylorious »

TEXT UPDATE / RE: Computer Death + Other Issues;

So, I'm a school teacher by trade, and needless to say, it takes 95% of my time, and with the rain we had through Jan-Feb-March, most of my time wasn't spent thinking about the bike since I'd needed to drive to keep from getting me and my monkey suit all wet before work.

My pickup's electrical took a dive in late February, and that took most of my free time diagnosing with the DMM and getting back on the road.

Then, about 1 week ago now, my laptop hard drive took a nosedive and took 3+ years of lesson planning, 6+ digital F.S.M.'s, and lord knows what else with it to Nether-realm as I was teaching about the dangers of 'toxic stress' (Oh irony was rich)
I'm still 'getting back on my feet' because of this, and thusly, am unable to upload photos at the moment so please bear with me.
...Literally making lesson plans on a 1960's manual typewriter (much to my students chagrin) but to my amusement.

Lastly; I'm simultaneously clearing a .3 acre side-yard next to my house with hand tools, and building a fire-pit and *drumroll* minibike track for my little XR100. There's 2ft grass to fell and rake, 50ftx1.5ft of concrete pathway to sledgehammer, berms to dig, trees to turn into firewood, saplings to excavate, neighbor dogs to talk with, stray bullets to find... #eastoakland

It's my 'gym,' and I use it copiously since life's stressors seem never-ending. There's nothing like swinging a shovel, truly, to make your day of pushing paper seem like nothing. Plus, I'll get to THROTTLE it when I'm done, and finally, have a 'patch'

HOWEVER, I've been trying to finish the GL as much as I can!

I'm working on the bike when I can. Took a rainy day to graft the custom saddle into action! FINALLY got the two Corbin seat-pans fused together (a 70's "gentry" pan with an attached "Road Commander" upright) and just need to punk-rock stitch the two pieces of leather together over the abomination that is the foam, and boom, seat'll be done!

Keeping it running well, and been using it to blast around the bay area to see a cute Canadian girl and commute to/from work. Runs like it should. Got the oil dropped and replaced, going to do the drive-shaft fluid soon. (75w-90 HyPoid, right?)

Starting the bike this morning, the entire electrical system took a nose-dive, and went kaput. FULL dead gauges, lights, all that. DMM read 12.8+ volts, but I was already running late, so I took the truck and pushed the behemoth back into the garage. I assume these symptoms are Main-Fuse failure or inadequate ground of the battery. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for bearing with me.

"The days I keep my gratitude higher than my expectations, I have good days." -R.W. Hubbard
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#32

Post by ericheath »

If you have trouble with that typewriter, Pedrotq is the man!! Hang in there.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#33

Post by Taylorious »

*Electrical Issue Update*

So; the GL seems to have had an issue with the starter itself. (at least, that's my diagnosis)

-SYMPTOMS-
1) The typical 'click' when starter button pressed, and entire bike's lights go black.
Then,with the key still set "ON", the dash/running lights illuminate very slowly. DMM read battery voltage climbing from sub 6.0v to 12.7v+, and then again, press starter button and... boom, back to black.

2) DMM'd the voltage at the Main Fuse (was a 20a, replaced with OEM-spec 30a) and the starter solenoid. Both read 12.6v+ before start attempt, both read sub 6.0v after, and slowly came back online as charge built in the battery. Battery is Feb 16' new.

3) Disconnected the killswitch/starter button to see if it was causing parasitic draw immediately after the crank. It wasn't. Lights illuminated slowly every time.

4) Disconnected the ignition switch to see if it was parasitically drawing, but it wasn't. Lights repeated process.

5) Cleaned the chassis main ground for the battery, and still no start. Same symptoms aforementioned.

6) Disconnected the starter motor (+) wire, and directly jumped it to the battery. Nothin'. Just a little baby arc.... but no turning over.

7) WITH 6) done as well as Key 'on', kill-switch on 'run', start button held down; The Ol' Kickstarter got the bike started in 3-4 kicks, and ran/idled just fine.

Am I right to assume starter? haha Also; any 411 on a good replacement? Saber Cycle wants 200+ for a new one, and O.E.M. new is 600$+.

Think I'll get an eBay OEM for the time being, and rebuild mine, no?

Spring Break's 1 week away... and then back to the garage!
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
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robin1731
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#34

Post by robin1731 »

Maybe starter. But get the battery tested.

Stay away from Saber. Do some reading on them, you'll see why I say that. (from one of the many banned people, for asking a question)

.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#35

Post by Track T 2411 »

I agree with Robin, get the battery tested. I just replaced one that had the very same symptoms. It would test OK with a meter, 12+ volts, crank the engine once or twice, then nothing wait a while, and the same thing all over. Ran fine once running, showed taking a charge, but wouldn't hold it. Load test (at any auto parts store, etc.) showed it had a bad cell.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Patriccio
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#36

Post by Patriccio »

Someone around here did a little skit on the rebuild. I bought a replacement. When I get home tonight, I just might have time to skim through my files to determine the price & location of purchase. I think Interstate Batteries carry 12v AGM type for about $100. Actually, the web site offers a grand selection of three from $75 to about $140.00, the Cycle Tron 21 AH, 350 cold cranking amps! It weighs 18#, so that means you'll have to carry a big wad of cash in your right side pocket for ballast.
If there is one thing I have learned throughout this process it is this: Check your respirator for spiders before you put it on.
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#37

Post by Taylorious »

Ok... ELECTRICAL PROBLEM UPDATES;

I went for a little RnR in the desert and came back, and now, digging into it...

She's still not running!

The battery tests at 12.92v by itself (DMM on the two poles)

NEW DEVELOPMENTS:


1) Now, as SOON as I turn the key to 'ON', the voltage drops to 1.6v or so... and floats there.
(This is the voltage OVERALL, on battery poles included)

2) NO lights whatsoever. Before, the voltage would slowly climb back up, and then the dash would come on, and then the headlight... now, nothin'.

3) What little voltage there is continues making it's way 'down the line'... (e.g. the Red/Black wire on the kill-switch, the main fuse, the main pole of the solenoid, etc.)

4) When the key's OFF, the voltage tests at 12.92v or thereabouts at the main fuse, and the primary pole of the solenoid.

I'm thinking short/ground? (e.g. the MAIN ground on battery) ...
OR, is this likely battery itself?

I'm going to head to my nearby O'Reilly's to get the battery tested.


Any thoughts would be appreciated! I've got little to no exp. with electrical stuff!

Again; building a library of pictures for when I get a computer again! Mine is just... well... very dead.

:flamer
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#38

Post by Taylorious »

Further developments still without start:

Tested battery DIRECT [+] CONNECTION to starter motor (without [+] connected from from bike wiring harness/solenoid), nothin.' [-] leads were on the body and battery [-] terminal, respectively.

Took battery to O'Reilly's. Tested normal. Came home at 13.00 - 12.99v

Put battery BACK into bike after getting it back, turned key to ON with killswitch OFF, and bike's headlights/instrumentation/running lights began to flicker on...
Immediately DMM'd fuse block randomly, and main fuse; both showing 12.9v.
Then, switched kill-switch back to 'RUN' and G'NIGHT, all the electricity went bye-bye. Battery DMM'd at 3.00v +/- again.

SOLUTIONS?
So; short in the Killswitch?

Additionally; I've read in the wiring diagram that the power goes from MAIN FUSE to KILLSWITCH first, then is distributed around the bike. It would make sense that the killswitch is bad, if that's the case.

Lastly (Can anyone confirm this statement?) ...since the electricity goes STRAIGHT to the kill/starter switch, if you put a MORE than 50w/40w headlight in it can mess up the switch itself? Now; the L.E.D. unit I installed is NOT over, if anything... it's under, at about 35w... But, in the first stages of diagnosis, I went through and examined all my fuses in the fuse block and noticed that some where over/under capacitive load for their respective spot... Maybe the starter-switch took a big electrical blow and cooked?

Yo no sé, cuñados. Ayudamé por favor.
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#39

Post by ericheath »

Have you checked continuity in the fuses? Buss fuses can look good but have weak connections internally. I've had all kinds that look good, but the two ends spin in circles, to some that the soldering lets go underneath the metal base- you usually see soldering balls in there- to ones that look fine but no continuity.

Another rarity is the fuse box itself not getting a good ground.

Keep poking, you'll get there.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#40

Post by Track T 2411 »

Taylorious wrote:Further developments still without start:

Tested battery DIRECT [+] CONNECTION to starter motor (without [+] connected from from bike wiring harness/solenoid), nothin.' [-] leads were on the body and battery [-] terminal, respectively.
Using a jumper cable directly fom the positive battery terminal to the starter should cause the starter to spin, regardless of any switch positions.

Took battery to O'Reilly's. Tested normal. Came home at 13.00 - 12.99v

Put battery BACK into bike after getting it back, turned key to ON with killswitch OFF, and bike's headlights/instrumentation/running lights began to flicker on...
Immediately DMM'd fuse block randomly, and main fuse; both showing 12.9v.
Then, switched kill-switch back to 'RUN' and G'NIGHT, all the electricity went bye-bye. Battery DMM'd at 3.00v +/- again.

SOLUTIONS?
So; short in the Killswitch?

Additionally; I've read in the wiring diagram that the power goes from MAIN FUSE to KILLSWITCH first, then is distributed around the bike. It would make sense that the killswitch is bad, if that's the case.
Using the nicely color-coded wiring diagram available in ShopTalk, power from the main fuse goes directly to the ignition switch, and is distributed from there. The kill switch (OFF/RUN/OFF) only controls the power to the coils.

Lastly (Can anyone confirm this statement?) ...since the electricity goes STRAIGHT to the kill/starter switch, if you put a MORE than 50w/40w headlight in it can mess up the switch itself? Now; the L.E.D. unit I installed is NOT over, if anything... it's under, at about 35w... But, in the first stages of diagnosis, I went through and examined all my fuses in the fuse block and noticed that some where over/under capacitive load for their respective spot... Maybe the starter-switch took a big electrical blow and cooked?

Yo no sé, cuñados. Ayudamé por favor.
This has been bugging me, so I had to read it more closely. If you're not blowing the main fuse, the problem almost certainly has to be with the starter itself and the solenoid, as they are the only components other than the rectifier which aren't protected by that fuse. I think your solenoid is 'welded' and your starter stuck. Of course, I am by no means an electrical guru... :roll:
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#41

Post by Taylorious »

Track T 2411 wrote: Using a jumper cable directly from the positive battery terminal to the starter should cause the starter to spin, regardless of any switch positions.
Thanks for the 411 on this!
I did what is visible in this video((( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUNNn3azBi0))) and needless to say, the starter didn't move. I have an eBay purchased starter (OEM, guaranteed working) sitting on my office desk, and will move onto installing this next if need be... BUT... see following post for my developments last night!
Track T 2411 wrote: Using the nicely color-coded wiring diagram available in ShopTalk, power from the main fuse goes directly to the ignition switch, and is distributed from there. The kill switch (OFF/RUN/OFF) only controls the power to the coils.
Thanks again for the 411 on the wiring diagram!
I used the 75-78 Diagram last night to multiple 'positive' (lol) ends. I'll explain in a the next/following post.
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#42

Post by Taylorious »

MORE "She-Still-Angry" UPDATES:

So; finally got a way to upload photos again. New computer on the way!
Additionally, got back into the thick of it last night from 10-12:30pm.
Image

Started, per a classic SOHC-4 Honda builder friend, with this little number here... put the DMM on the battery and pulled each one of the lines until I saw changes in the voltage output with KEY ON and KILL-SWITCH on "RUN".
Image

First, didn't notice anything weird when I pulled ANY line. Started with the blacks + black/white stripe lines (power/'hot'), then the yellows (accessories?), then blue/orange (turn signals?), then greens (ground?)... but saw only small voltage jumps (2-3.5v max) when I pulled the BLACK+RED-STRIPE line.
Then, I pulled this, the MAIN connection to the harness near the battery:
Image
Image

IMMEDIATE jump back up to 12.8v+ on the DMM. So, my thinking was 'learning 1:'

THE SHORT/RESISTANCE IS IN THE HARNESS!

I'm NO electrician, so even finding this was killer for me.
I felt the connections in there look mighty messy, but maybe that's normal? They're still getting 12.8+v... but they look 'well used'...

Next step was to reconnect it, and start pulling BUSS fuses:
Image
Image

Here's that 'small' jump I'm talking about... 2.35v from pulling out that single fuse.

So, I figure 'Learning 2:'
THE SHORT IS RELATED TO THE BOTTOM FUSE CIRCUIT!


Here comes the 'weird' part of the whole process...

So, at this point (11:30+pm) I'm just pulling whatever I can to see if I can find ANY FULL JUMPS from 1-2-3v's up to the full 12.6-12.8... and lucky me, I find TWO things I can pull of that do that. VVVVVVVVVVV

Remember; THE KEY/IGNITION is 'ON' and the KILL-SWITCH is 'RUN';
Image

Either of these (the black wire + red stripe) AND the fuse-block 'big' clip, when unplugged, give big jumps in voltage.

BTW: Here's the diagram I was using;
Image

BOTTOM LINE; I'm still at a loss for the cause
- My head tells me it's kill-switch resistance.
- The FUSE block tells me it's somewhere in the HEADLIGHT circuit
- Good advice here points me to starter/solenoid
- Good advice in my moto community says battery


4 ADDITIONAL DISCOVERIES:
1) I HAVE gotten the starter to VERY sporadically get a 1/4th - 1/8th a 'crank' when I tap the starter button, but this 100% without fail kills the voltage from 12.8+v down to 0.8v and then it slowly builds again.

2) The starter solenoid 'clicks' EVERY time I press the button, even when voltage is at 3-7v. Does this mean the starter solenoid is 'ok', or 'welded?'

3) When voltage is 'building' (e.g. #1), it doesn't do so uniformly. Sometimes it JUMPS back to 12.8V+, and other time, it really struggles to get beyond 3-7v, and then does so.

4) When at 'full 12.8v', it doesn't HOLD it. It's slowly dropping every time, and I can hear electricity (or something 'screaming') inside the headlight bucket. It drops in pitch as the voltage curves off below 12.00, and then the headlight goes out, and we're back to #1.

Thanks again, guys.

This is my commuter, and I'd sure like to get it operational! I miss her!
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#43

Post by Track T 2411 »

The simplest test for the solenoid is to test for continuity between the two 'big' posts. There should be none. The ignition switch, starter button, and headlight circuit are all related. The headlight circuit runs through the starter button, cutting the power to the headlight when the button is depressed so the rest of the system has full power. It is not uncommon for the starter button to fail, as the headlight circuit pulls significant juice. The button mechanism and/or soldered connections inside the housing could be toast. I (and many others) have successfully (very carefully) disassembled, cleaned, and re-greased the mechanism. It is mostly plastic and very brittle after 30+ years. I've also had to re-solder the connections. They are relatively tiny, and a PITA!

Adding a relay into the headlight circuit to allow the heavy current to bypass the starter button is the recommended long-term fix for this issue.

Another thing I didn't think of that could be a contributing factor is the reserve lighting unit or RLU. I think there is a writeup on it in ShopTalk as well.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#44

Post by Taylorious »

Track T 2411 wrote:The simplest test for the solenoid is to test for continuity between the two 'big' posts. There should be none.
Totally checked it.
0.00v when bike's KEY ON + "RUN" as read on the starter-cable solenoid post.
When 'START' pressed, the solenoid makes the 'click' and then I see a mirror of the battery's 12.6-12.8v jump across the the other pole.

Track T 2411 wrote: The ignition switch, starter button, and headlight circuit are all related. The headlight circuit runs through the starter button, cutting the power to the headlight when the button is depressed so the rest of the system has full power. It is not uncommon for the starter button to fail, as the headlight circuit pulls significant juice. The button mechanism and/or soldered connections inside the housing could be toast. I (and many others) have successfully (very carefully) disassembled, cleaned, and re-greased the mechanism. It is mostly plastic and very brittle after 30+ years. I've also had to re-solder the connections. They are relatively tiny, and a PITA!
I feel like there could be a problem/issue/draw with this switch... and likely will go there next, but:
1) as of yesterday, I 'contact cleaner'd' the inside of the housing, and the wires in there as well.
2) before I bought the bike (dec. 2016) the P.O. told me the switch had been replaced. It IS new. It's in good shape... so far as I can tell from my poke inside it.
3) When pressed, the red dial from "OFF" to "RUN" creates about a .10v drop, and the "START" button does still make the solenoid fire, and sends 12.6+v down the length of the wire to the starter.
Track T 2411 wrote:Adding a relay into the headlight circuit to allow the heavy current to bypass the starter button is the recommended long-term fix for this issue.
Thanks! I read about this one... I definitely will get on that as soon as I get the bike operational again.
Track T 2411 wrote:Another thing I didn't think of that could be a contributing factor is the reserve lighting unit or RLU. I think there is a writeup on it in ShopTalk as well.
Again, Thanks! I took a look at this thing, and its got some minor head/exterior damage on it... but, after reading about the RLU, it seems like it doesn't cause the type of 100% voltage loss I'm seeing.


STILL 100% STUMPED and dead-in-the-water. >.<
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
Taylorious
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Re: Meet Valerie; 1976 GL1000 Custom Transformation

#45

Post by Taylorious »

Continued "I-KEEP-TRYING" updates:

Progress from yesterday's 3hrs in the garage;

1) Checked the voltage at the END of the wire from solenoid as starter button pressed = 12.6+v (13.3v when running)

2) Replaced started with eBay unit (guaranteed working, checked with 12v jumper-cables), and it wouldn't work. In fact, it made the terrible Starter-Clutch 'howling'/'whirring' X3 times when I kickstarted the bike with it installed properly. Immediately unbolted it, and re-installed my old starter (which, when tested with 12v jumper cables, worked fine)

3) Overall bike voltage is once again very unstable!
I got the bike to where, with the starter-motor to solenoid wire was disconnected, it would come up to 12.6+v every time I'd turn the key/ignition switch + kill-switch on, with all dash/body lights running 100%... voltage floated around 12.3-12.4v, and I could kick-start the bike FIRST TRY every time. No weird noises...I put it away for 1-2hrs, and periodically came and check up on it by turning the key to see if it'd fire up the lights... and it would... but then I go to ride the thing and it won't start.

In-fact; it wouldn't even keep the dashboard/body lights on 100%. They'd drop to 0... then slowly re-illuminate, and and then randomly dim or shut off 100%. I couldn't kick it over, or even get the voltage to stay remotely high.... So I canned the idea and put it back away.


LEARNINGS:
1) The starter motors BOTH checked out, so it's not the starter motor itself.
2) The headlight circuit definitely has a minor draw (I.D.'d from fuse pulling 1-2 posts ago), but not enough to 'kill' the full battery voltage overall it seems.
3) Bike cannot be reliably kick-started, nor be expected to hold voltage near/above 12v.
4) SOMETHING is 100% killing the charge, then resisting it intermittently as it attempts to rise back to 12v, as it has been the entire time, yet I cannot I.D. the cause as of yet.


IDEAS/NEW-PATHS:
1) get a replacement IGNITION SWITCH?
2) get a replacement KILL/START SWITCH?
3) get a replacement WIRING HARNESS? (...starting to not know where/how to look anymore!)

Any advice/thoughts always appreciated.
WITNESS ME :flamer

If the only tool you have is a HAMMER, everything begins to look like a nail

Santa Cruzian by Way-Of-Oakland.

76' GL1000 "gonna-be-something-special" build
04' KLX300R Rumpus Mobile (plated)
90' XR100R Goon Mobile (plated)
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