1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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toolbox
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#661

Post by toolbox »

5speed wrote: lol..I can relate.
The reason I asked is..you built a bigger version of our first oven.
we took a section of 7" flue pipe, 2 reducers that knocked it down to 5", put the 5" inside the 7", surrounded it with fiberglass insulation,pop riveted the reducers in place and made a damper for one end out of a cap.
We then removed one of the burners from the old kitchen stove we had, cut a hole through the top of the over under it, set the flu pipe in the hole and voila..an oven capable of baking rifle and shotgun actions.
I thought I had a picture of our creation but I can't find it.
That's really funny...hey, great minds, right? :mrgreen:
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#662

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BikeMaine wrote:
toolbox wrote:
BikeMaine wrote:I like your oven Man. Good idea using a steel drum.
Just out of curiosity I have to ask, why not put the insulation on the outside of the drum? It would give you more space inside.
Glad you asked :). Couple of reasons actually...first is just a practical one--if I have to move it around, it's really easy to handle...I can just grab the barrel without making a fiberglass mess. Second (and more importantly), it's more efficient that way...the airspace inside will hold heat really well, and will get hotter faster. The bare steel would act as a heatsink, where the insulation doesn't really. With a bigger heating element (like a 220V one from a kitchen oven), it wouldn't really matter...if you throw enough BTUs into an air space, you can overpower whatever inefficiencies there are. Kind of the same theory I have with my house...it leaks like a sieve, but if I dump massive BTUs into it with the wood stove, I can still get toasty warm :lol: . With my little toaster oven heating elements, I think it probably helps to make it as efficient as possible, and keep cooking time to a minimum. More often than not, there's a method to my madness :lol: .
I understand the heat-sink problem, and I was assuming that was your reason. I would just be afraid of having little pieces of fiberglass baked into my powder coating. Maybe they wouldn't show.

Either way, I still like the oven Brother.
Thanks man! I'd actually had the same thought...though I didn't think it would be much of an issue since it shouldn't shed much as long as it isn't disturbed. Still, I'd had the thought that it would be better to have it covered, and would also help make it more efficient by giving it one more air gap. More on that in a minute :).

First, I needed to find a way to suspend a pipe in the middle of it to hang parts off of... So, I cut up a piece of scrap pipe to make some brackets...

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And, here they are finished...

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Then, it was on to welding them into place...

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And trying to get the second one parallel...

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And both of them welded in, and the pipe I cut in place.

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I only lit the backing paper for the insulation on fire once, so that was pretty good for me :lol: . In theory, you could load up the pipe with parts, spray them with PC, and then drop the whole thing into the oven...but, lacking a rack to put it in I just ended up putting them in one at a time.

Then, it was on to building a burner... I just took some more scrap black iron pipe, cut it up and put in a bunch of notches for all the stuff, and secured it with wire. Here's the finished product being test fired...

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It was at this point that I decided to upgrade the barrel with some aluminum foil for added insulation...I put it in and overlapped it by quite a bit. Then, I put in that piece of fence to secure it to the inside...it worked really well. Here it is with the burner installed...looks like I'm about to make the worlds biggest baked potato :lol:

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The foil increased the efficiency quite a bit...it only took about 10 minutes to reach a temp that will cure the PC, and it hit 400* easily.

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I went on to make a lid for it out of a garbage can lid, with aluminum foil wrapping insulation.

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I did some testing, and found that two cycles of the timer would get it up to temp, and let it bake for about 20 minutes...so 30 minutes total per cycle.

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Later, I went ahead and used an old can of black engine paint to make it fancy...the nozzle was messed up,so it was either this or the garbage can :lol: . Also added a couple of labels lol. Didn't bother to sand the rust...it didn't need to be that fancy :lol: .

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If I had to do it differently, honestly the only thing I would change is getting a barrel with a removable lid. What I made works fine, but a real lid would seal even tighter, making it even more efficient. Works perfectly as-is though...I mean, I used the heck out of it this past weekend, and it performed flawlessly. Here's a bunch of the parts I PC'd...

I pulled all of the bag latches off, so I could re-do them.

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Took all of the passenger floorboard hardware apart to blast/sand/PC

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Also really wanted to do black out these chrome engine mounts...

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Latches blasted and ready to go...

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Load of parts in the oven...

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I needed a place to let parts cool off so I could re-load the oven as quickly as possible...I made this amazing cooling rack :lol:

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Another load of parts in the oven...

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Everything turned out great.

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I also finally installed the pad on the passenger boards...

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The brackets for them turned out really nice.

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Latches look really good too.

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Engine mounts are a big improvement too I think...

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Rear boards look really good. If the paint on them doesn't hold up, I can always PC them later :)

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Bought these button head screws to fill the holes in the bag lids, and went ahead and PCd them too...

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And then...there were the bars. I knew these things were going to be a challenge to get into the oven without messing up the PC, and they didn't disappoint :lol: . It actually took a couple of tries, including having to wipe off all the powder and start over. In the end, I got it to work...

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They look great.

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I let them cool off in the oven for quite a while, but when I pulled them out, they were still really hot. Turns out if you heat a piece of metal that big to 400*, it stays hot for a while :lol: .

Oh, also got my new clutch cable installed. It just needs to be adjusted...my Victory cable lube came in the mail so I went ahead and installed it.

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Seems like good stuff...not sure about the needle dispenser thing. You have to squeeze the bottle like you're trying to kill it in order to get it to come out :roll: . Oh well...got enough in there, and installed the cable.

Then it was on to re-assembling the bars... Not sure I'm a huge fan of the way Honda engineered the switch assemblies...they're really kind of a PITA to take apart and reassemble. Oh well...took some time, but I got them all together, and installed my fancy schmancy leather grips :). Oh, and this will make you guys laugh...remember my grip caps and all the trouble I had with them? Well...I decided that I wanted to make them match everything else, so I stripped them one last time and powder coated them :lol: . Really happy how it all came together.

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My brake lever also turned out really nice...I had to reshape the ball end that was dragged on the pavement in the accident.

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Also decided to PC the rear rack and the bolts that go in it...the thing just barely fit in the oven, but it did fit. My paint job was surprisingly difficult to remove, so I guess props to me on a good prep job :lol: . Turned out really nice though.

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Also hooked it up to the truck and ran it for a while...still runs great :)

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Right now I'm in the middle of taping off the teeth on the shelter...it's probably going to take a couple of days. As you can probably imagine, it's a...tedious...job :lol:
Last edited by toolbox on Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#663

Post by BikeMaine »

Now I REALLY like your powder coat oven.
Everything looks great man!
Kevin
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#664

Post by Sagebrush »

Ingenious!!!!
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#665

Post by 5speed »

toolbox wrote:
5speed wrote: lol..I can relate.
The reason I asked is..you built a bigger version of our first oven.
we took a section of 7" flue pipe, 2 reducers that knocked it down to 5", put the 5" inside the 7", surrounded it with fiberglass insulation,pop riveted the reducers in place and made a damper for one end out of a cap.
We then removed one of the burners from the old kitchen stove we had, cut a hole through the top of the over under it, set the flu pipe in the hole and voila..an oven capable of baking rifle and shotgun actions.
I thought I had a picture of our creation but I can't find it.
That's really funny...hey, great minds, right? :mrgreen:
I'm a Maritime redneck. :mrgreen:
ETA..don't worry about getting your oven air tight. we did that with our first stove and it wasn't heating like we thought it should so we consulted with a friend that is a retired appliance repair man. He was the one that told use we need a damper on the pipe to create air flow.
Ever notice on old electric ranges..they had a hole under a burner that went into the oven. ;)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#666

Post by BikeMaine »

Hey Buddy, I know you're busy and all,.... But, all I can imagine is a tooth-less shark on your bike.
Kevin
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#667

Post by toolbox »

BikeMaine wrote:Hey Buddy, I know you're busy and all,.... But, all I can imagine is a tooth-less shark on your bike.
:lol:
Yea, sorry man, been too busy to post my progress...but part of that is spending my evenings working really hard to finish that shark. I might have time to post an update tonight...and you'll be happy to know, THIS SHARK HAS TEETH :lol: .
The paint still needs a couple of days to cure, but I had to take some pics :). Stay tuned...
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#668

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Sagebrush wrote:Ingenious!!!!
Thanks! They say necessity is the mother of invention, but for me that's only half the story...the other is my budget :lol:
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#669

Post by toolbox »

5speed wrote:
toolbox wrote:
5speed wrote: lol..I can relate.
The reason I asked is..you built a bigger version of our first oven.
we took a section of 7" flue pipe, 2 reducers that knocked it down to 5", put the 5" inside the 7", surrounded it with fiberglass insulation,pop riveted the reducers in place and made a damper for one end out of a cap.
We then removed one of the burners from the old kitchen stove we had, cut a hole through the top of the over under it, set the flu pipe in the hole and voila..an oven capable of baking rifle and shotgun actions.
I thought I had a picture of our creation but I can't find it.
That's really funny...hey, great minds, right? :mrgreen:
I'm a Maritime redneck. :mrgreen:
ETA..don't worry about getting your oven air tight. we did that with our first stove and it wasn't heating like we thought it should so we consulted with a friend that is a retired appliance repair man. He was the one that told use we need a damper on the pipe to create air flow.
Ever notice on old electric ranges..they had a hole under a burner that went into the oven. ;)
That's a great point, and one I wasn't even thinking of...with a tightly sealed box, the air would stratify with the temperature, but not nearly as quickly as it will with convection powering the airflow through it. I'll be happy to leave mine as-is :lol: . It actually works so well, it would be a challenge to improve it honestly. Would make more sense to start from scratch with a new build actually. Which may happen someday...when I build that shop :).
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#670

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BikeMaine wrote:Now I REALLY like your powder coat oven.
Everything looks great man!
It was the stickers, wasn't it? :lol: In all seriousness, I appreciate the kind words...I'm super happy with how all the powder coating turned out. I don't know how much money that horrible freight powder coating setup saved me (since that place in town wouldn't give me a quote :lol: ), but I'm sure its already paid for itself. The unit was $60 IIRC, the paint was $6, media blaster about $20, and aluminum oxide media like $40. I used coupons for everything, so it was cheaper than all that, but I gotta figure it was around a hundred bucks. I have to think they would have charged at least that...and I don't know if they would even be interested in coating all the nuts and bolts I did on the bike. I'm sure I'll get a lot of use out of it in the future as well, which means I'll be saving even more in the long run.

But, back to the bike...and the pictures as I promised :).

So, I'm just going to throw this out there right now--this shark mouth business is one of the most tedious things I've ever done :lol: . Even putting aside the rest of the mouth, designing the tooth patterns, putting glue on them, taping them up, masking the gaps, and then repeating on the other side (while trying to keep them symmetrical)...took about three evenings of several hours each. And most of that was while wearing my magnifying glasses...ug. I have a new found respect for guys that do this stuff for a living :lol: .

This is after I'd cut out a bottom row of teeth, glued them down, and taped them off. Oh, and run the tape strips at the top and bottom.

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And with the patterns removed--

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And the top row...

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And with the patterns pulled.

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Now, it's worth noting at this point, that this was not the final layout...at the time I thought it was though :lol: Ultimately, after staring at it for a while, I decided to change the very front of both the top and bottom rows of teeth. In the final design, I had two teeth past the big tooth instead of three (two larger teeth to help balance out the size of the big tooth), and I changed the shape of the two lower teeth. I ran a test using the completed pattern on the other side just to make sure...

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When I was all done futzing around with the teeth and had them where I decided I wanted them, it was time to get serious with the tape...

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This was also very...time consuming :lol:. Then I had to carefully sand each tooth with 320 grit paper, being careful not to damage the tape. Next day it was time for primer...no going back now :lol:

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And that evening I sprayed the white paint...

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And the other side...after three coats, I pulled the first piece of tape off :shock:

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Pulling the rest of the tape was more time consuming than I thought it would be...turns out trying to pull all those tiny pieces of tape is just as tedious as laying them down :lol:. I ended up using a pair of tweezers and a tiny flat screwdriver to lift and then pull them. I had a couple of tiny mishaps where the screwdriver slipped, but you'd have to know where to look to find them. The leftover ball of tape was pretty impressive.

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So...how'd it turn out? I'll let you be the judge :).

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I think it looks about as good as I was ever going to get it...it looks great, but if you put your face right up to it you can see the imperfections of where the tape didn't pull as cleanly as it should, or I biffed it with the screwdriver. Still, I think it looks really good...I think I nailed the proportions/color/shapes of the mouth, tongue, and teeth.

And with that, the major work should be done on the shelter...though I'm not quite ready to hang the "Mission Accomplished" sign on the carrier just yet :lol: . I'm actually debating adding one more decoration to the back half of it...but I'm still working on that one. The paint is dry, but should really have a few days to cure before I start playing with it too much, and I'm using that time to decide what to do. If I decide it's done, it'll be time to install the internal brackets, and then the two lids... From there, the list is getting shorter, and it's all a bunch of small stuff. Oh, and I (finally) ordered a battery for it so it can run without being on life support from my truck. Ordered one of the Big Crank batteries, and it should be here sometime next week I think. It's getting there! :mrgreen:
Last edited by toolbox on Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#671

Post by Track T 2411 »

Looks sharp! Lol!
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#672

Post by Sagebrush »

It does look good. An OD canvas cover on the seat would really complete the look.
Dean Spalding
Raleigh, NC

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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#673

Post by BikeMaine »

Love it!. You have great patience.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#674

Post by wingrider »

That looks awesome! Great job!
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#675

Post by BikeMaine »

toolbox wrote:
BikeMaine wrote:Hey Buddy, I know you're busy and all,.... But, all I can imagine is a tooth-less shark on your bike.
:lol:
Yea, sorry man, been too busy to post my progress...but part of that is spending my evenings working really hard to finish that shark. I might have time to post an update tonight...and you'll be happy to know, THIS SHARK HAS TEETH :lol: .
The paint still needs a couple of days to cure, but I had to take some pics :). Stay tuned...
It's so easy to busy somebody else's behind when I myself have been doing practically nothing on my own bike.

But I've been working on this weekend finally.
Kevin
1982 GL1100A
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