1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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toolbox
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#481

Post by toolbox »

Sagebrush wrote:Thought about applying a plate over the existing lid and cut your holes in it? Might be easier to do and you could make it large enough to cover the dent in the lid where the logo once resided.
Had the same thought...the issue I'd run into is the lid has a slightly convex shape to it, which would be pretty tough for my sheet metal skills to match. I was originally worried that the flat instruments might look weird dropped into the curved lid, but at the center it's not enough to matter. It seems to slope more toward the sides, which may actually still end up being an issue for the switch plate because it's so wide...but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it :lol: . I don't think I'll have much trouble finding another lid on the big auction site...kind of a bummer to lose all that time, but it's all good. Stuff happens, and you move on :).
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#482

Post by 5speed »

Sagebrush wrote:Thought about applying a plate over the existing lid and cut your holes in it? Might be easier to do and you could make it large enough to cover the dent in the lid where the logo once resided.
I was thinking the same thing..and fasten it on with big rivets...like the panels on a fuselage.
if you rivet it on..starting at one end and working your way to the other..you should be able to form it to follow the curve of the lid...unless you are using 1/4 diamond plate or something. :mrgreen:
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#483

Post by BikeMaine »

I love your thread man.

Great work, good luck with winter.

Here in Maine, where it's usually cold by now, is 80 degrees outside. Weird, I have all my firewood done, things are put away, (except for my bike) and it's still too hot to wear my leathers when riding.
Last edited by BikeMaine on Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Kevin
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#484

Post by BikeMaine »

BTW- am I the only one that can't view the photos?

I remember that this happened before, but it's been going on for a few weeks now for me.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#485

Post by 5speed »

BikeMaine wrote:BTW- am I the only one that can't view the photos?

I remember that this happened before, but it's been going on for a few weeks now for me.
they show up for me.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#486

Post by Patriccio »

Is that War Hammer? Or are you just looking for "warmer" w/ a public school British accent?
If there is one thing I have learned throughout this process it is this: Check your respirator for spiders before you put it on.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#487

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5speed wrote:
Sagebrush wrote:Thought about applying a plate over the existing lid and cut your holes in it? Might be easier to do and you could make it large enough to cover the dent in the lid where the logo once resided.
I was thinking the same thing..and fasten it on with big rivets...like the panels on a fuselage.
if you rivet it on..starting at one end and working your way to the other..you should be able to form it to follow the curve of the lid...unless you are using 1/4 diamond plate or something. :mrgreen:
I'll give it a think...at this point I've got plenty of time to think about it :lol: . Either way, the lid is going to get a little more decoration in order to give it a more finished look...rivets are a pretty strong possibility here :).
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toolbox
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#488

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BikeMaine wrote:I love your thread man.

Great work, good luck with winter.

Here in Maine, where it's usually cold by now, is 80 degrees outside. Weird, I have all my firewood done, things are put away, (except for my bike) and it's still too hot to wear my leathers when riding.
Thanks man!! We had a pretty nasty cold snap early on (September) that was one of those "garden ending events", but then it warmed back up into more fall-like conditions. Still not done with wood, but I'm making good progress. This weekend, I finally built a sawbuck that I've had in my head for a couple of years. I'll have to show it off one of these days...it's not going to win any beauty contests, but I finally have a way to (safely) stack logs or slabs about 3 1/2' high and up to 10' long. It has vertical posts for dividers, so you just run the saw next to the posts and get nice neat 16" chunks of wood spilling out of it. No more measuring! And I can cut a ton of smaller stuff all at once, which was such a pain the rear before that I usually didn't even bother. I love it :mrgreen: . Only cost me about $40 for a couple 2x4s and 2x6s, and two boxes of 4" screws.
Hope your winter over there isn't too bad...I'm hoping whatever we get is better than last year, which was pretty brutal. Keep riding as long as you can!! :)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#489

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Patriccio wrote:Is that War Hammer? Or are you just looking for "warmer" w/ a public school British accent?
:lol: . Yep, that would be War Hammer...or Warhammer, depending on your preference between medieval weaponry, and miniature fantasy tabletop games. As much as I do enjoy a good British accent, when it comes to my bikes, they're strictly 'Murica :lol: .
Last edited by toolbox on Tue Dec 19, 2017 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#490

Post by BikeMaine »

toolbox wrote:
BikeMaine wrote:I love your thread man.

Great work, good luck with winter.

Here in Maine, where it's usually cold by now, is 80 degrees outside. Weird, I have all my firewood done, things are put away, (except for my bike) and it's still too hot to wear my leathers when riding.
Thanks man!! We had a pretty nasty cold snap early on (September) that was one of those "garden ending events", but then it warmed back up into more fall-like conditions. Still not done with wood, but I'm making good progress. This weekend, I finally built a sawbuck that I've had in my head for a couple of years. I'll have to show it off one of these days...it's not going to win any beauty contests, but I finally have a way to (safely) stack logs or slabs about 3 1/2' high and up to 10' long. It has vertical posts for dividers, so you just run the saw next to the posts and get nice neat 16" chunks of wood spilling out of it. No more measuring! And I can cut a ton of smaller stuff all at once, which was such a pain the rear before that I usually didn't even bother. I love it :mrgreen: . Only cost me about $40 for a couple 2x4s and 2x6s, and two boxes of 4" screws.
Hope your winter over there isn't too bad...I'm hoping whatever we get is better than last year, which was pretty brutal. Keep riding as long as you can!! :)
I would definitely be interested in seeing your saw-buck. Mine works, but extremely crude....
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#491

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BikeMaine wrote:
I would definitely be interested in seeing your saw-buck. Mine works, but extremely crude....
Image

Here you go...it aint fancy, but it is very functional... The posts are rejects I bought from a fencing outfit a few years ago for a buck a shot. The 2x4 braces were cut from stuff in my scrap pile and bits scavenged from old pallets taken apart for other projects. The posts are (about) 8' each, so I just cut them in half. It took longer to assemble than I thought it would, mostly because there was a lot of measuring involved. If you load it up with the logs/slabs flush with the left end, you just run the saw down the left side of each post...I measured it out so that the width of each post is accounted for in the 16" length of the end product. It would probably be faster/easier to just buy dimensional lumber and build one that way...but it wouldn't be cheaper :lol: . It's bigger than it probably looks...about 4' high, and ten feet long. I set it up where I process wood at the back of the yard...I try to keep the mess contained to one area, and this thing isn't something you want to be moving around lol.

It holds quite a bit...in this pic, the row that's basically all slabs (and the big chunks in front) were all from a single load in the thing...I was pretty impressed.

Image

It took me so long to build the thing on my day off that I only had time to do the one load before I had to pick up the kids from school :oops: . Should make quick work of the slab I have though...I bought three bunks that were 4x4x10', and I bet if I had one day all to myself I could have the whole lot cut and stacked. That's what, almost 4 cords worth of wood. I love it :mrgreen: .
Last edited by toolbox on Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#492

Post by BikeMaine »

Excellent, man.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#493

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Hey guys! I'm going to title this "Winter Update #1"...I don't actually know how many winter updates there will be to this, but since this is the first, that's where I'll start :lol: . Not surprisingly, it's been a cold one...I don't think it's gotten under 10* yet, so it's not that bad, but cold enough that I'm not in a big hurry to be working out in the driveway. Had freezing fog off an on for a couple of weeks, which made for some pretty scenery...

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And speaking of working out in the driveway, I got to replace this thing on my truck the other night:

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Top of this sway bar link snapped off while I was driving down the highway :shock: . I've seen plenty of worn out bushings on these things, but never seen one break off before. At first I thought I got a flat tire...the steering got really vague like one was almost deflated. Pulled over, and at least the tires were fine lol. Because I couldn't find any time to work on it during the day, I ended up on piece of cardboard in the snow under the truck...at night...in the dark...when it was 14* outside :roll: . Not my favorite thing...I had to take multiple breaks because my hands got so cold they wouldn't do what I was asking them to lol. Ratchet also slipped, and I smashed my finger...which as all of you probably know, is a special kind of pain when your hands are so cold they're about two steps from being numb :oops: . Oh well, at least it's done...and it could have been worse. Couple of years ago I rebuilt the rest of the front end in this weather, and it was the worst wrenching experience of my life lol.

Anyway, on to the bike... I've been itching to get some more work done on it in spite of the weather...I want to get it wrapped up as early as I can in the spring so I can get out and enjoy it, so I've been thinking about what I can do now. Which bring me to the lighting on the license plate... I couldn't work on this until I had the plate, since it's kind of a (semi)permanent install. With plate in hand, I got back to it... I took the bag off the bike, because that way I could do a lot of it sitting next to the wood stove in my living room :mrgreen: . Sorry for the lousy pictures, it's dark outside and I had to use what I could for lighting.

First, I put heat shrink tubing on the "light bolts", and installed them. Ran the wires down through the holes I'd drilled in the fall.

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Here's what they look like on the plate (from the bottom)...

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Then I got out some of that wire I found earlier, and cut off a couple of long strands. Soldered them to the hot and ground.

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And then I had the thought that I should probably have a disconnect down there so I can unplug those wires in case I ever need to disassemble the turn signal and take it apart...so i took out that old wire harness I bought and scavenged some bullet connectors...

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So, with a way to disconnect the wiring, I buttoned it up for the first time since I took it apart.

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And of course, I was pretty curious to see what it would look like with the power on, so I grabbed this big NIMH 12 volt battery I have (it's actually for running photographic lighting). But, it's 12V, and that's all that matters...her she is :).

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I angled the lights at about a 45 (maybe a little less) so that they would shine towards the middle, and not just light up the sides. I think it came out pretty good...

Next was trying to fish the wires up the side...I found that two extra wires would (just barely) fit into the original plastic sheath that the turn signal wires are run in...worked out well, since it cleaned it up to look basically factory.

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I couldn't quite get them all the way through, so I had to cut off about 4" of the plastic sheath...I just wrapped some e-tape around the remainder of it. Looks good anyway, and I like that the new wiring will be routed the same as the factory.

Then, it was on to integrating it into the wire harness... First, I needed an extra ground plug back there, so I cut out the terminal that had two spots, and replaced it with one that had four.

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And then, create a way to plug in the extra hot. I looked up a wiring diagram, and the brown going to the tail light is the one...I cut it, and put a double female connector on it. Then put salvaged male bullets on the new hot, and the original hot going to the taillight.

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It all came together pretty easily. And yes, I swapped the left and right turn signal housings when I put it together, so the orange and blue are backwards...oh well lol. Maybe I'll swap the ends so they're correct someday. Anyway, other than maybe tightening things up with some tape, that's together.

Soooo...then I had to hook up a battery and try it out :).

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I'd kind of forgotten just how cool that taillight is :lol: . I guess I got the wiring correct, as it's all working correctly now.

Looks pretty good to me...and this will help it be street legal, which is always a bonus ;) .

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And, for the first time, I got to try out the turn signal with it installed in the bag...

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Man, those things are bright :shock: . Guess everyone will know which way I'm going lol. Anyway, both sides are working correctly, which is great.

And finally, for a Christmas present for myself, I ordered a new lid for the shelter...$30 on the auction site, which I didn't think was too bad. I've definitely made more expensive mistakes :lol: . Hopefully it arrives in good shape...I'm thinking that I might be able to get it cut up this winter, and have it ready to go in the spring. My plan right now is to get the lid cut up, and maybe get the switches installed...and maaaaaybe get the wiring for the extra lighting done. That would leave only one big thing left to finish in the spring...painting the shelter body. And that is going to be...a bit of a project. But if it turns out, it'll really set the whole thing off :). Anyway, stay tuned...more to come...at some point lol.
Last edited by toolbox on Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#494

Post by toolbox »

Winter Update #2
Like I said, I don't know how many of these there will be...but this is the second one :mrgreen: . So, last night I had some time and wanted to experiment with how the switch plate was going to go on. There's basically two ways it could work--option1, drill holes for the switches to pass through, and install them through the back of the lid. Also drill holes for all the doo-dads on the switch panel that would have to protrude into the tank area. Pros of this--leaves the most metal in that area helping the integrity of the lid, might be less work. Cons--have to drill lots of holes that have to be perfectly aligned, if the shafts of the switches aren't long enough, might not be able to get the nut on that secures them.

Option 2--cut out a slot big enough that the whole thing can just be mounted on top, and bolted down at the sides. Pros--switches can be mounted directly to the mounting plate, only requires drilling 4 holes.
Cons--removes a lot of metal from the lid, which would probably then require some metal attached in back to make it more rigid.

Option 1 was what I decided to try last night, since option 2 would require basically cutting a large slot, preventing me from trying option 1 in the future. Soooo...I lined up the cover plate to center punch the holes...

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And then drilled pilot holes...

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That was all fine and dandy. Did discover that this sheet metal is thin enough you would want to drill out bigger holes in lots of steps, and use very sharp bits...I did them in two steps, and when the bit punched through it had a tendency to grab before it cut making...not very pretty holes :oops: . Would also help to back the piece with a chunk of wood or something...but that would require having the lid off and drilling from the inside since it's convex from the top. Anyway, after lots of drilling and some test fitting, the mounting plate was on, and I'd put a couple of the switches through the back to see how they would fit...

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And with the cover plate on...

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Sorry for the bad lighting, the days are really short lol. Here it is stuck back on the bike for an idea of how it will look...

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So, option number one works...with one exception--because of the thickness/curve of the top, the switch on the far right doesn't have any of its mounting shaft exposed, which means I can't put on the flip cover. And...that aint gonna fly (har har har :lol: ). I really want it on there, so that's a deal breaker. Soooo, it looks like I'll be cutting out a large slot to make room for the switches, and just using bolts on the sides to secure it. I'll have to remove the original cam-lock things that originally attached it to an aircraft panel, and use some allen head bolts instead.

You probably also noticed a gap on either end because of the flat panel stuck on a curved piece of metal...I always knew that was going to be an issue, and I thought I could maybe put a couple layers of black foam under it--it could compress in the middle, and expand to fill the gaps at the end. But, I think a better solution is to make a little "shelf" with body filler...just enough to fill the gaps so it can sit flat. More work, but I think probably a much better end result.

Anyway, it's kind of fun to see about what it will look like. And in the end, it's probably ok that I manufactured a "practice lid" by being dumb...being able to experiment without worrying about ruining it was kind of nice. The holes I drilled were pretty ratty :lol: . I would like to give option 2 a try on this thing before I do the real thing, but that will probably require daylight so I can see what I'm doing. There's a cold front coming that's supposed to put the highs around 10*, so it might be a while before I get to it...maybe I'll fire up the rocket stove and do the wiring instead :lol: .
Last edited by toolbox on Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#495

Post by Sagebrush »

Glad to see you aren't frozen solid yet. Here's hoping you get to ride it all spring summer & fall after you finish it this winter.
Dean Spalding
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