Never Ever B4 seen photos of a Goldwing

[Patriccio]

I dismantled the bike this week & sent the wheels off to the shop for powder coating. Then I started on the steering bearings.

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[Patriccio]

I bought All Balls bearings from Motorcycle Superstore, but the bearings for the lowers would not fit over a small lip on the inner race. I called the Superstore & spoke to a rep, then I e-mailed some pics, but no response yet.

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[Patriccio]

The steering stem has a small lip on it where the new bearings would not fit. The lip is about 3.3 mm, & the bearing's inside diameter is only about 3.0 mm. I cleaned the old bearings & installed them on the lowers.

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[Patriccio]

Here are the existing bearings before I cleaned them.

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[Patriccio]

The non-fitting new bearings.

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[Patriccio]

I also finished the extension section for the seat. I don't want a gap between the seat leather & the shelter, so when the seat is upholstered, the leather will be about 1cm from the surface of the shelter.
I also pulled the center stand to have it powder coated. The axle in there was spotless, so I probably won't install the zerk fitting like some members have suggested.

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[Patriccio]

Here's a pic of the old bearings installed & lubed.

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[robin1731]

The non-fitting new bearings.

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That looks like the old race is still on the stem. That needs to be removed before you can install the new bearing. The old bearings cage really should not have come off of the race like that.

[Patriccio]

So that means I could have pried off the race & the grease seal. I couldn't discern whether that assembly was part of the stem, & so I decided to not try to remove it. The Clymer manual doesn't mention removing the dust seal & lower inner race, but the Honda mechanic's manual does mention it, but as I stated, I couldn't determine how to remove the two parts without damaging them or the stem. I simply wasn't sure if they were to be removed. If they can be removed, then I can take it all apart again & install the new lower bearings.
Thnx

[robin1731]

Yeah, it isn't an easy removal. You can use two pry bars. Or some have taken a dremel and cut a slot in the race. One trick I use for installation is to put the stem in the freezer for a few hours. Then take a heat gun or something and warm up the bearing/race. The hot race will almost fall on to the cold stem. Or at least it will take less effort to get the bearing on. I do the same with the neck. Except put the races in the freezer and use heat on the neck.

[hmratbam]

That grease seal will not survive the removal of the bearing,you'll need a new one. Probably need a new on anyway. Heat will probably help with the old bearing removal also. Serious heat,more than a heat gun. Makes the whole procees dicey to keep from burning yourself. After the the parts are hot start a sharp chisel in the crack where the race meets that shoulder. After you get the race started off then use the pry bars. OR (no heat) The Dremel with a cutoff wheel and split the old race. If you can grind a groove in it as much as you can without getting into the stem etc. then put a chisel in the groove and whack it pretty hard. The assembly needs to be solidly supported for this. Hopefully this will split the race and it will virtually fall off.

[sunnbobb]

I spotted that race as well - I use a dremel and carefully cut them off with a cut off wheel. A small nick in the headstock wont hurt anything.

[robin1731]

snip....... A small nick in the headstock wont hurt anything.

Just smooth it out if you need to before installing the new bearing.

[Patriccio]

I installed the new bearing this morning. I put the stem in the freezer for two hours, then I hit it w/ the Mapp gas torch, but nothing happened. I used the grinder & ground a notch in the side. I nicked the stem a bit, but then I sanded it out. I replaced the grease seal w/ new.
Thanks to all for your help.

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Wheels have returned from powder coating.

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