A forum for stories, pics and updates of your resto's. Be it a barn find, Grampas hand me down or a bike being brought back to it's former glory.If you are restoring it, show us your stuff!
robin1731 wrote:Not sure where you got 100 lbs-ft on that. In my post I did state 100 lbs-in.
OH MY GOD!! i totally missed that!! BUT on a good note!! I went for a visit to my father in law's today. He was a mechanic for years! He handed me a bit of OLD SCHOOL technology! Check out this torque wrench!!! measures up to 100 inch pounds! JUST what the doctor ordered!
Not to much done today. I got the coolant pipes cleaned up and the new themostat installed. All new gaskets and o-rings. I'm loving the new stainless steel bolt kit too. I also re-installed the wire harness. Any ideas how I can cap the tach port on the fuel pump? I'm going with a digital tach and I don't want to get any dirt in there or let any oil leak out.
As long as you have a good seal in the "tach port", and leave the drive installed, it won't leak oil. You could find a rubber plug that fits it to help keep dirt out.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Disappointment strikes again!
I apparently ordered the wrong Clutch hub spanner socket from Motion Pro based on a recommendation on the ShopTalk page. http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 81#p307381
This post didn't mention the difference between the '75-'78 models and then the '80-'82 models
It cost $15.49 total with shipping, so I'm not out all that much. I just have a useless tool. I guess it's for the GL1000, not the GL1100? I should learn to read!
This is exactly what I ordered. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0015/
So I'm back to looking for the correct Clutch Hub Spanner socket that does NOT cost $60 bucks and a way to get rid of this one.
suggestions?
I'd have to look. Just find an old socket that the outside edge will sit on the nut, then use a cut off wheel to cut out all the parts that don't fit in the notches of the nut, to a depth that will allow the remaining tabs turn the nut. Seems like there was a diagram some where around here at one time.
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
I posted on the Facebook page. I made this today in about half an hour. Used a 24mm socket. Could have probably used a 25mm because i had to shave a little from the inside but it works PERFECTLY! The socket on the right is the one i ordered from Motion pro. you have to read carefully because on motion pro's site it says that this socket is for the '75-'79 only. it does not fit the '80-'82.
So tonight I finished up the rear of the engine. I got the clutch all reassembled. I got the rear engine cover on with the vacuum thingy on and all the new bolts!! I left the clutch cable holder a little lose because I'll have to re-attach the clutch cable.
Then I was so excited I decided .. SCREW IT... I've been so scared about messing up the valves and cylinders by putting on the timing belts wrong for SO LONG.. more than 2 or 3 years now!! I just grabbed the book and ATTACKED it!!
BAM!!! IT WAS SO EASY!! I was amazed!
Here's what I did (From memory) so you guys just tell me if i did anything wrong.
I lined up the cam pulleys marks with the heat shield marks (start with the left one that does not have the fuel pump on the back) and then I set the mag bolt and the crank on the T1 mark.
I was able to slide on the first timing belt and then I slid the tension pulley up and I was able to get the belt under it kind of easy... the marks still lined up.
so i moved over to the other side.. (right side with the fuel pump on the back)
now this is the side that the springs have tension on the valves and the cam so the pulley has a hard time staying lined up with the mark on the heat shield without holding it... but it's still not that hard to do by hand without tools...
It was still pretty easy to line up the marks on the pulley and the heat shield and slip the belt on the crank pulley then the cam pulley, push the tension pulley down and slide the belt over the tension pulley...
so now the instruction book says to put a wrench on the cam pulley and turn clockwise but that just loosened the bolt.. so instead i turned the mag bolt a few times to test that i had the belts on the correct teeth and when each belt was TIGHT between the crank pulley and cam pulley, i tightened down the tension pully for that belt. that way it picks up all the slack right?
I also had some idea and mocked up how I'm going to mount the new digital speedometer. I'll reuse the OEM Honda Gauge mount bracket and chop it down. I'll drill out 2 new holes to fit for this gauge.
I put Randakk's new front break on the bars and just hung the pods on too.
but I'm not going to drill or mount them permanently until i get the forks back.
I also ordered a pair of Randakk's fantastic grips and a new throttle tube.