Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

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robin1731
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#61

Post by robin1731 »

mr west wrote:snip........... The results would probably be higher if I had removed all plugs at once and if I had a fully charged battery?


Yes, you should have all of the plugs out and of course a good battery to do this. But those numbers look pretty good.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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mr west
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#62

Post by mr west »

Went om a small camping trip around 700 kms and everything went well. Its a great bike for travelling 2 people and fuel consumption was about 0,5 litres per 10 kms. Normal with luggage I guess.

Only problem was that one day the battery died. Even after riding for about 2 hours.... so after a little bit of measuring we found the problem that has been bugging me for more than a year, come to think about it. One of the cables in the harness from the generator-connector to the next connector was broke inside.. Therefore giving perfect readings sometimes and sometimes not charging at all.... Glad to have that sorted!
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#63

Post by mr west »

Alright. The weather and my busy schedule hasnt really motivated me to start the season, but today finally I fired her up.

I have been struggling a little bit with my front end though.... before I had bent tubes that I changed for straight ones from a 77. But last season still I felt it was not really riding true. I had to lean a lot to the right to keep the bike in a straight line if let go of the bars. So I took an extra good look on the front end now. For sure the tubes are straight. But what other common faults could be there?

Are the lower legs prone to bending?
I measued the front wheel from the brake discs to the rim, and it´s about 5 mm more space on the right side? also measured where the middle of the tire is between the fork tubes and for sure its more to the left. Should the front wheel be offset or totally symetrical....?
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#64

Post by ericheath »

I have found that even 1/16" difference in fork length can cause that. With nothing bent, the amount sticking above the top triple tree should be equal. Most have the fork cap screw in the triple tree, but some like to allow it above for a slightly lower ride. ( more than an inch usually will drag pegs in the corners.) If they are equal, you could try dropping one side, the left side in your case I think, just a little to see if it straightens it out.

Now just because I have found that, doesn't make me a guru. Some others will come along with sage advice.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#65

Post by mr west »

OK, yeah, I think I know what you mean. Like, if the tubes are different height, then the front axel is noot perfectly hoizontal? But I have the tubes at exact same height in the tree. So first I like to know if the real problem is the offset of the front wheel, just so I dont correct one error with another.... But for sure I need to measure the wheel again to see its standing perfectly vertical in line with the forks..
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olchris
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#66

Post by olchris »

Have you had work to the front wheel symentry/spokes, why the "offset" as it should be central..???? Get several measuring devises and make sure the front rim (not tyre) is central to the forks.... If it not put several sand bags in the LH saddle bag!!
1972 Norton.. Rebuild from boxes.. http://www.accessnorton.com/strange-fra ... 44-60.html and here http://www.accessnorton.com/strange-frame-t18084.html SOLD
1975 Mk3 Norton.. Too good to mess with, but refurbished...
1975 Goldwing #1 SOLD
!975 Goldwing #2.. http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 2+wing%232
1975 Goldwing #3... http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... =Wing+%233 Going very slowly but going forward..
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#67

Post by ericheath »

Next I would check swingarm settings. Both sides need to be set by the book. Good time to grease and check bearings if you haven't. The same thing can happen there, where one side is holding the rear wheel out of alignment with the front. If you don't have a book, I can look up the torque settings for you.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#68

Post by robin1731 »

The offset may not be correct but it won't cause your issue. Not unless the axle is bent, triple tree's are bent, or something else is "out of whack".

Many bike's have one or both wheel's off center. As long as they are both square to the frame they will go down the road straight.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#69

Post by mr west »

Thank you all for the input! The bike has been running straight, and I never had any accident so frame and all should be true. Its just that I changed around the fork, wheel, superbrace, tire, spokes too many times..

Good to know that the front wheel should be right in the middle between the forks. I was a little unsure because its not really symetrical with the speedo on one side etc.... Will measure everything properly.

I didnt even know there was settings to the swing arm? I thought it was just one setting as its shaft drive. Rear shocks are 2 year old hagon with same setting. I have Honda and Clymer manuals so I will read up on that swing arm....

Back with results soon hopefully!
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#70

Post by olchris »

Im not sure if there are any "real" measurements in the manuals for where the rear rim is suppose to be between the rear swing arm, but... This 4-5mm measurement is taken using a length of angle iron laid across the very outside of tyreless rim.. I respoked after refurbishment to this measurement and it feel fine........ Though im no speed racer!!!

Image
1972 Norton.. Rebuild from boxes.. http://www.accessnorton.com/strange-fra ... 44-60.html and here http://www.accessnorton.com/strange-frame-t18084.html SOLD
1975 Mk3 Norton.. Too good to mess with, but refurbished...
1975 Goldwing #1 SOLD
!975 Goldwing #2.. http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 2+wing%232
1975 Goldwing #3... http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... =Wing+%233 Going very slowly but going forward..
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#71

Post by ericheath »

I just noticed you're from Sweden. I was in Karlstad, MN, a sister city of one in Sweden settled by Carlsons and Wikstroms and others. The county is still the highest per capita of Swedes in America.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#72

Post by mr west »

so what youre saying is that about the back wheel is that an iron against the hub left 5mm to the rim? I hope to get in the garage monday for this seasons first test ride and mesurements...

Interesting that you have Karlstad also in the US?! Would love to travel to US sometime and ride coast to coast....
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#73

Post by rudolphwolven »

olchris wrote:Im not sure if there are any "real" measurements in the manuals for where the rear rim is suppose to be between the rear swing arm, but... This 4-5mm measurement is taken using a length of angle iron laid across the very outside of tyreless rim.. I respoked after refurbishment to this measurement and it feel fine........ Though im no speed racer!!!

Image
The situation conform the enclosed sketch was the Honda-OEM situation on my original '76 K1 just before SS spokes were applied.........
The right rim is the rear wheel..............
If the rim and hub are oriented versus each other in this way, the position of the hub, rear drive housing etc. versus the rear fork are automatically a result of the total concept of the rear part of the bike.........
Maybe it can help you; sizes mentioned are absolutely correct (checked many times, before making sketch)..........
wkr, Ruud

Image
Proud winner of the NGWClub-USA contest Bike of the Year 2016---Image--- GL1000 K1 1975
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mr west
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#74

Post by mr west »

This forum is absolutely great! No matter how strange question, you always get great help and detailed answers from around the globe!

Rudolph, thanks! But what do you mean original 76? The spokes must still have been adjusted so many times the last 39 years, no? But I guess that your bike is running absolutely straight right? So I will check against the answers from here and see what I´ll find... Thanks again guys!
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Re: Slowly fixing things on my 1976 Gl1000....

#75

Post by rudolphwolven »

mr west wrote:This forum is absolutely great! No matter how strange question, you always get great help and detailed answers from around the globe!

Rudolph, thanks! But what do you mean original 76? The spokes must still have been adjusted so many times the last 39 years, no? But I guess that your bike is running absolutely straight right? So I will check against the answers from here and see what I´ll find... Thanks again guys!
No, the spokes were never adjusted, I am 100% sure about that.
The K1 is from 1976; as a second owner I did purchase it in 1978 with approx. 10.000 mls on the odo; than drove approx. 600 mls untill 1983.
That year I stored it in my garage with original 10.600 mls on the odo and never touched/drove it for 31 years untill 2014.
In 2014 I started to renovate the K1 which was still in excellent shape and condition, however every part had to be inspected/checked, the engine fortunately did not have to be opened.
I wanted to change the OEM spokes against SS spokes, therefore in 2014 I at first measured very precisely the position of the rims versus the hubs, in order to be able to achieve the exact OEM-arrangement again.
It did run with the old spokes absolutely straight and now with the SS spokes straight again.
Since a couple of weeks the K1 is almost "renovated".......

In another thread on this forum I reported this...................

Today the restauration of my GL1000 K1 became finished for 99,5%; radiatorwings to be treated, carb's to be adjusted and some minor work to be done.
Made my maiden trip this afternoon to the gasstation, 7 mls v.v; she was running excellent; it is a very impressing experience after all those years.
The K1 is 40 years old and has 10.600 mls on the odo; 37 years of ownership of which the last 32 years stored in my garage under a selfmade plane...........my age was 35 when I purchased her, next month I hope to be 72 years old.
The restauration lasted 11 months in which I did spent approx. 750 hours of labour and a couple of thousand dollars for motorparts, paint, polishing, new set of tires, SS spokes, etc, etc.........the engine and frame were spraypainted and all tubes were treatad from the inside with an anticorrosion-protection (400 ml of stuff); the coloured panels still have the original paint as supplied by the factory.

Regards, Ruud

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Best regards, Ruud
Proud winner of the NGWClub-USA contest Bike of the Year 2016---Image--- GL1000 K1 1975
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