A '75 followed me home today

[roncar]

Hard to measure as the mounts are not perpendicular to the grab bar, and probably not critical, but I measured ~42 to 43mm.

[wog]

Hard to measure as the mounts are not perpendicular to the grab bar, and probably not critical, but I measured ~42 to 43mm.

Thanks Ron.
I figured you'd have a few around!

I was gonna just guess from this pic, but better to have a real measurement.

[wog]

Ended up using an 1/8" hardened pin to stop it from spinning if caught on something.
Could go with larger diameter rod, but this is close to the original and the pin is hardly visible.

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Yep, that's what I get for hand drilling the hole, off center again.

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Now, just need to wait until the end of the week for the rail to show up.

[wog]

I know the retaining ring in the drive shaft can be a real pain to remove,
but I have to ask...

Have any of you guys spent the better part of 2 hours removing the simple little ring from the front master cylinder????

Finally had it moving when one of the ends decided to snap off.

[wog]

Transfering the final drive over to the new frame.
I've heard the horror stories of the non-greased axle joint, but wow. 5500 miles.
It was half-way filled with dust that used to be splines.

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These are fine...

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This is the '75 joint...

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I've already ordered a grease seal and will install a zerk, but will the later "one-piece" joints work with a '75? Seem to be MUCH cheaper than the original.

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[wog]

This
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Go ... ba&vxp=mtr
gave me some inspiration today to keep this rebuild going even stronger.

What a beautiful bike! Hope Randakk gets the "buy it now" price.

Here's where I'm at...

[wog]

I've already ordered a grease seal and will install a zerk, but will the later "one-piece" joints work with a '75? Seem to be MUCH cheaper than the original.

The attachment 75 shaft joint one piece.jpg is no longer available

To answer my own question, yes the later joints work.
I went ahead and ordered one, fits perfectly. And the new seal seems to fit without any modifications.

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Do you guys think I should start a thread in the Tech Discussions forum titled "Things I've learned in my last rebuild" and include things like this?
Or just leave them here and have them come up when searched for???

[wog]

Been powder coating some pieces as I re-install.
I had a lot of the easily taken off pieces coated along with the frame.

So much quicker and easier than painting. Blast, clean off any dust, coat, bake, then reinstall, all in less than 30 minutes.

I use a standard household oven for most parts, but when I do just one or two smaller items I use an old toaster oven stood on it's side.
Just screwed in a simple wire across the "top" to hang the hooks on.
Heats up very quickly and with the elements so close to the part, bake time is usually only around 10 minutes.
I've used this oven for probably 15 years. Nothing quicker.

I've had great luck with the cheapo Eastwood and Harbor Fgt Tools guns.

The high gloss black I use works great. Looks like it has several coats of clear over it.

Blasted and ready for coating.

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Gelled over after about 2 minutes in the oven.

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Done, just remove and let it cool off. If I'm in a hurry to re-intall, it goes straight to the freezer.

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Forgot to take a pic of the same part, but here is the finish.

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[wog]

Jumping around in this thread again, but....

Added a grease zerk to the final drive area.

'78 on the left, '75 on the right.

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I couldn't figure out how the grease got from the zerk to the splines until I put my ultra-magniyfing cheater glasses on...

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tiny holes located around the rubber flange.

[wog]

Drilled and tapped 1/4-28 from the inside after measuring the hole location on the '78.

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Milled down with a 1/2" end mill for a flat surface for the zerk.

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Zerk installed.

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Grease shield installed.

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"There I fixed it" (Just like Mother Honda did around 1977?)

Now, time for more powder coating....

[BruteSquad]

...

Forgot to take a pic of the same part, but here is the finish.

75 rebuild 020.jpg

Wow, a toaster. I always thought powder coating was black magic. That finish looks great. Does time at temp or ramp rates have much effect on the durability of the coating?

[wog]

There are different types of powder (Epoxy, polyester, etc.), but most have about an 8-10 minute cure time. Get the part to 400 degrees for 10 minutes and it's done.

I buy powder in 50lb. boxes so I get a good price, but it's still not too bad in 1-2 lb bags.
The nice thing is if you keep the oversprayed powder clean, you can just scoop it up and put it right back in the gun.

[wog]

Crunch time for the VJMC rally at Silver River State Park.
Got a lot done today on the engine and exhaust.
After checking the things better to find issues with now, before I reinstall, I'm ready to reattach the heads...

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...

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[wog]

Guess this is why they say not to use antifreeze with silicates...

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After grinding out the infected aluminim to be able to tig it...

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The "pit" had a paper-thin wall left.
After welding...

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I won't use this cover on this bike, found a NOS on ebay.

Luckily, this was the only bad area. Once I cleaned out around the cylinder walls, found no pitting.

[wog]

Getting close.
Decided to wait on polishing the covers and just bead blasted them for now.

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Being bare aluminum, they'll get stained and scratches will show easily, but I need to get this on the road for the Rally in a few days.

First time the bike has see sunlight in a few months. Had to move it out to get the engine off the bench.

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Using the motorcycle lift to install the engine was much easier than the old 2x4 on a car jack. Nice and stable, especially since I'm usually doing it alone.

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Forgot to order new rubber grommets for the clutch cover. Found that using standard wire grommets worked perfectly.
Very close in size and tightened down great. Size is 7/16".

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