Pics of my 76 'Wing...
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- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Not much new to report. Big thanks to everyone who helped me this weekend when I halfway-botched up my timing belt replacement. It's all lined up and looking good now, though. Glad I got them changed as the old belts were pretty worn looking... and were OEM Honda belts. At 70,000 miles I hope they weren't the originals!
Today I picked up fuel line, radiator hose, new thermostat, and spark plugs... New (replacment) thermo switch is in the mail, as well as a new ignition.
I suspect I might have it ready to test-start it by next week!
Today I picked up fuel line, radiator hose, new thermostat, and spark plugs... New (replacment) thermo switch is in the mail, as well as a new ignition.
I suspect I might have it ready to test-start it by next week!
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
- Cleaned out the gas tank (again) with electrolysis. Last time I finished up and put 5-gallons of gas in, the old crush washer didn't seal so I emptied the whole tank. By the time I got a new crush washer, the tank had flash-rusted again. So... repeat, dried well, new gas and new crush washer.
- Removed spark plug caps and inspected and cleaned them. Trimmed spark plug wires back to good wire and reinstalled new plugs.
- Installed new ignition (thanks Frenchie!)
- Installed and wired up headlight and left control.
- All new gas lines and filter.
- New choke cable.
- New thermostat and purchased the Geo fan temperature switch. Fed Ex delivered it to my neighbors rather than me and it took 4-days to figure it out (neighbors on vacation). Just need to rewire it and the radiator is ready to go back on. I'm a bit concerned as the old radiator fluid, while nice and clean, is obviously the wrong type... it's bright green. I hope I don't start it up to a bad, leaky system due to the PO's improper fluid.
- Installed new frame section WITH kickstand (thanks peteybug!) Went on without a hitch and didn't have to remove the header or exhaust... just loosened it all up and the new piece slid right into place.
When installing the new frame section, I took a closer look at the old piece. The PO attempted to weld a new kickstand on while the old section was still on the bike, and proceeded to burn the insulation off the starter wire. The starter itself is a little discolored from the heat... hopefully not damaged.
- Removed spark plug caps and inspected and cleaned them. Trimmed spark plug wires back to good wire and reinstalled new plugs.
- Installed new ignition (thanks Frenchie!)
- Installed and wired up headlight and left control.
- All new gas lines and filter.
- New choke cable.
- New thermostat and purchased the Geo fan temperature switch. Fed Ex delivered it to my neighbors rather than me and it took 4-days to figure it out (neighbors on vacation). Just need to rewire it and the radiator is ready to go back on. I'm a bit concerned as the old radiator fluid, while nice and clean, is obviously the wrong type... it's bright green. I hope I don't start it up to a bad, leaky system due to the PO's improper fluid.
- Installed new frame section WITH kickstand (thanks peteybug!) Went on without a hitch and didn't have to remove the header or exhaust... just loosened it all up and the new piece slid right into place.
When installing the new frame section, I took a closer look at the old piece. The PO attempted to weld a new kickstand on while the old section was still on the bike, and proceeded to burn the insulation off the starter wire. The starter itself is a little discolored from the heat... hopefully not damaged.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- Roady
- Member Relations &_Graphics
- Posts: 11957
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Location: Port St. John, FL
While you've got the radiator out, I suggest that you carefully inspect the water pump impeller. You should already have the hose manifold off (2 bolts) and will be able to feel it through the large hole. Try to move it around, it should be solid in position.
Check for any sign of leakage or gunk in the weep hole on the bottom.
When I was in there last year I neglected this sage advice and now I'm back in there. My pump is shot and needs replacement. Frenchy has a $23 kit for the seals and new pumps for $125.
Also, my Geo fan switch tested okay on the bench but was not 100% efficient on the bike. Sometimes it switched on okay, others not. May have been due to the bad pump ... I dunno. I've ordered a replacement, $59, from Service Honda.
Looks like you're being thorough so I thought I'd mention the pump issue.
Check for any sign of leakage or gunk in the weep hole on the bottom.
When I was in there last year I neglected this sage advice and now I'm back in there. My pump is shot and needs replacement. Frenchy has a $23 kit for the seals and new pumps for $125.
Also, my Geo fan switch tested okay on the bench but was not 100% efficient on the bike. Sometimes it switched on okay, others not. May have been due to the bad pump ... I dunno. I've ordered a replacement, $59, from Service Honda.
Looks like you're being thorough so I thought I'd mention the pump issue.
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Roady (and others) ... I took a look at the water pump last night and it seemed pretty solid. I could turn the entire blade assembly back and forth ever so slightly... a fraction of an inch. But it did move. But other than that, it seemed solid.
Something to concern myself over? I'm not sure what is considered "normal" or not.
Something to concern myself over? I'm not sure what is considered "normal" or not.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- Whiskerfish
- President
- Posts: 36850
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
- My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
- Location: Norfolk Va
A little "rotational" play is ok. But you do not want any wiggle of the shaft side to side or up and down at all.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
I installed the Geo temperature switch this evening, with a little creative wiring. I didn't want to remove the original plug, in case I wanted to go back to an original style switch in the future. Some of you guys probably already figured this out, but I thought I'd at least post my process for advice, suggestions, etc.
First off, I noticed that the original switch connectors were about the same size as some bullet connectors I had, so I worked backwards from that. You can see the bullet connector on the left, original switch, and the new Geo switch.
The area inside the Geo switch is very tight. So tight that even the smallest blade connector I had was too wide. Well, I could fit two in there, but they were touching. So I took the blade connectors and trimmed back a lot of the plastic sheath, but left enough to protect the crimp part.
I then soldered a 3-4" length of wire onto the BLADE part of the connector, and then protected using some shrink tubing.
On the opposite side, I soldered two of the large bullet connectors.
The crimped part of teh small blade connectors slid over the Geo switch just perfectly! You may have to trim a bit of the protective sheath because there is a ridge running around the inside of the socket.
So I have this:
Electric taped it really well:
The bullet connectors fit into the original plug really well. They seem nice and tight and don't move around so I assume they're good. Not sure how I'm going to protect them from the elements. And I may have to zip-tie the wire away from the fan blades.
So there you go!
First off, I noticed that the original switch connectors were about the same size as some bullet connectors I had, so I worked backwards from that. You can see the bullet connector on the left, original switch, and the new Geo switch.
The area inside the Geo switch is very tight. So tight that even the smallest blade connector I had was too wide. Well, I could fit two in there, but they were touching. So I took the blade connectors and trimmed back a lot of the plastic sheath, but left enough to protect the crimp part.
I then soldered a 3-4" length of wire onto the BLADE part of the connector, and then protected using some shrink tubing.
On the opposite side, I soldered two of the large bullet connectors.
The crimped part of teh small blade connectors slid over the Geo switch just perfectly! You may have to trim a bit of the protective sheath because there is a ridge running around the inside of the socket.
So I have this:
Electric taped it really well:
The bullet connectors fit into the original plug really well. They seem nice and tight and don't move around so I assume they're good. Not sure how I'm going to protect them from the elements. And I may have to zip-tie the wire away from the fan blades.
So there you go!
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- Roady
- Member Relations &_Graphics
- Posts: 11957
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Location: Port St. John, FL
Great set of instructions there.
I think you should post that in a new thread in the How-To section.
My instrux weren't near that good and they kind of got buried inside the thread about my fan switch.
But I still think mine is prettier.
BTW ... mine's coming out this weekend while I've got the frontend torn apart. It didn't seem to cycle correctly so I ponied up $59 to Service Honda for an OEM one. The trashed water pump may have been the cause, tho'.
I think you should post that in a new thread in the How-To section.
My instrux weren't near that good and they kind of got buried inside the thread about my fan switch.
But I still think mine is prettier.
BTW ... mine's coming out this weekend while I've got the frontend torn apart. It didn't seem to cycle correctly so I ponied up $59 to Service Honda for an OEM one. The trashed water pump may have been the cause, tho'.
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
- Whiskerfish
- President
- Posts: 36850
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
- My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
- Location: Norfolk Va
Looks pretty dang good to me!!!
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
- Roady
- Member Relations &_Graphics
- Posts: 11957
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Location: Port St. John, FL
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Thanks fellas... will post a new How-To with a link to the original switch thread here in a bit.Roady wrote:AzCycle, again ... your instrux are great.
Please copy that post into a new thread in the How-To forum.
Others can benefit from this.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Not much new this weekend. A water pump housing O-ring on order kept me from installing the cooling system. Though I did get the new battery topped up with acid and charged. Installed the battery, and:
- Replaced all fuses except my new main blade fuse.
- Headlight worked only on high beam for about 5 minutes then stopped working altogether. Headlight fuse is good so I've got a bad connection or the old, original Vetter headlight is just bad.
- Taillight works, as does the brake, though the brake control "sticks" and I had to jiggle the pedal to get the light off.
- Rear turn signals are wired into the brake light somehow. They come on with the brake light, and turn OFF when the brake is depressed.
- Was VERY curious if I had power, but pressing the starter button revealed dead silence. I suspect it's the starter button and will disassemble and clean soon.
- PO used some sort of car battery cable for the positive terminal to solenoid which is way too long. In messing with it, I accidentally jumped the two solenoid terminals and I think I heard the starter kick over.
- Starter cable is burned through to the wire by the PO's attempt at welding on a new sidestand (as previously mentioned.) Won't try to start it again without new battery cables.
So I'm still tracking down electrical gremlins, it seems.
- Replaced all fuses except my new main blade fuse.
- Headlight worked only on high beam for about 5 minutes then stopped working altogether. Headlight fuse is good so I've got a bad connection or the old, original Vetter headlight is just bad.
- Taillight works, as does the brake, though the brake control "sticks" and I had to jiggle the pedal to get the light off.
- Rear turn signals are wired into the brake light somehow. They come on with the brake light, and turn OFF when the brake is depressed.
- Was VERY curious if I had power, but pressing the starter button revealed dead silence. I suspect it's the starter button and will disassemble and clean soon.
- PO used some sort of car battery cable for the positive terminal to solenoid which is way too long. In messing with it, I accidentally jumped the two solenoid terminals and I think I heard the starter kick over.
- Starter cable is burned through to the wire by the PO's attempt at welding on a new sidestand (as previously mentioned.) Won't try to start it again without new battery cables.
So I'm still tracking down electrical gremlins, it seems.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- AZCycle73
- Billet Alum. Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:08 pm
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Jumped the solenoid last night and the starter kicked over, so that's a plus! Also removed the right-hand control, disassembled and found a burned wire as well as the starter button plastic housing broken.
I think I saw someone else here with this problem... that the plastic housing holding the button assembly spring gets fatigued and breaks. One-half of the plastic broke on mine so I strengthened the remaining piece by wrapping a VERY thin piece of plastic around it, slipping it into place in the housing, and filling the empty area behind the switch with Gorilla glue.
It seems to be holding but only time will tell... hopefully hold long enough for me to find a replacement right control.
I think I saw someone else here with this problem... that the plastic housing holding the button assembly spring gets fatigued and breaks. One-half of the plastic broke on mine so I strengthened the remaining piece by wrapping a VERY thin piece of plastic around it, slipping it into place in the housing, and filling the empty area behind the switch with Gorilla glue.
It seems to be holding but only time will tell... hopefully hold long enough for me to find a replacement right control.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
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