I would thread a longer bolt in until it either bottoms out (don't snap it!) or threads right on through, which is what I expect you will find (more thread available).
If the longer bolt bottoms out, measure how much of it to cut off and compare its length to the original bolt.
If you find the longer bolt binding up, don't gorilla torque it, use a bottoming tap instead to chase the unused threads that are likely grungy, causing the bind. Careful again, not to gorilla torque the tap. They are near impossible for a novice to drill through if that thing snaps off.
There is no way I'd do any epoxy thread repair expecting success, even at that low torque.
Epoxy Thread Repair
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- Earl43P
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Re: Epoxy Thread Repair
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93 GL1500I Double darksided and SOLD 3/29/20.
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- salukispeed
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Re: Epoxy Thread Repair
Epoxy is a great product and JBweld is a good choice too but at the engine temps expected when running the epoxy material will soften some and torque will become questionable at best.
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74 CB750 K4 nice driver
1966 CA77/305 Dream nostalgic driver
84 GL1200I work in progress
1970 CT 70
1982 GL500 Interstate
- Sidecar Bob
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Re: Epoxy Thread Repair
I can't remember whether that hole goes all the way through but there is an easy way to find out: remove the screw and try passing something longer through the hole like the end of a wire.
If the hole goes all the way through forget trying to repair it without removing the head because drilling & tapping will put chips into the crankcase, not to mention the helicoil's tang.
I would start by trying a longer bolt as Earl described except if the hole goes all the way through don't run a tap in (it would probably be tapped through anyway).
BTW: That bolt doesn't just hold the thermostat housing bracket, it also holds part of the head and, as such, it needs the correct torque to keep the head from warping. Because of that I would not recommend changing the size of the bolt or even the pitch of the threads.
If the hole goes all the way through forget trying to repair it without removing the head because drilling & tapping will put chips into the crankcase, not to mention the helicoil's tang.
I would start by trying a longer bolt as Earl described except if the hole goes all the way through don't run a tap in (it would probably be tapped through anyway).
BTW: That bolt doesn't just hold the thermostat housing bracket, it also holds part of the head and, as such, it needs the correct torque to keep the head from warping. Because of that I would not recommend changing the size of the bolt or even the pitch of the threads.
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Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
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