The NGW Project Bike. Clutch renewal. Engine in frame.

This Is Strictly For The "How To" Sticky's

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driftinmark
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#16

Post by driftinmark »

outstanding octane, what a great article!!!!!!!!!!!

hows the new clutch and the blower gettin along?
havin fun till im done
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OIL FILTER AND CLUTCH HUB SPANNER

#17

Post by clockcycle »

OIL FILTER AND CLUTCH HUB SPANNER

http://www.detwincam.com/shop/productde ... cts=gl1000

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Use with a 3/8â€ÂÂ
Clockcycle
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how does the clutch work?

#18

Post by hoganJr »

the clutch is a mysterious thing to me and reading this NGW forum leads me to believe the classic Goldwing clutch is unique. Could you possibly take the time to explain in a paragraph or two how the clutch in a GL1000 works.
My clutch works fine, but I want to understand as much as possible about the bike and some basic knowledge about the clutch may help in the future in troubleshooting problems that may arise. Thanks for all the incredible "how-to"s you provide.
Don Rodgers
1991 GL1500
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Common clutch

#19

Post by Rat »

"classic Goldwing clutch is unique"

Actually the clutch is the same as many early '80s Hondas, including The CBF series of in line 4s.

Most manuals have explanitory illustrations, the main difference is the location in the stack of the 'antichatter' plate.

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#20

Post by 1CrazyMoFo »

Would be very interested with more info on the "anti-chatter plate", can they be retro-fitted to wives and mother in laws?
Peace,
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#21

Post by hmratbam »

Don: This will be grossly oversimplified,but maybe it'll help. The clutch is a stack of plates,every other one is a drive plate connected to the engine and every other one is a driven plate connected to the transmission. Often the drive end is connected thru the primary chain,turnimg the slotted basket within which the drive plates with ears in the slots turn with the engine. The driven plates are stacked on a spline that is usually the transmission mainshaft. The "Pressure plate" is spring loaded to exert pressure on all the plates. The release ,or throwout, bearing can push on the pressure plate and move it just far enough to relieve the pressure so the driven plates can stop while the drive plates continue to rotate with the engine. The slots in the basket and splines on the shaft allow the plates to move enough to allow this to happen. Half the plates have friction material,and are sometimes called "discs", the other half don't have friction material and are often called "steels".The pressure plate springs usually bear on the closed end of the basket. When you pull the clutch lever,the cable moves an arm that thru a worm moves the pressure plate to release the clutch, this motion is very little,maybe less than a millimeter. So now that makes it obvious that if any of the discs are warped,pressure plate springs broken,throwout bearing worn and maybe two or three hundred thousand other things will make the clutch drag making the bike difficult to get into gear,also shifts hard. Hope this all helps with the info bank on clutches. ttn
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Clutch Replacement Question

#22

Post by Needle »

Aloha Octane,
Thanks for a great how to on the clutch, it helped me immensely! I noticed that you bought the same kit from Barnett that I bought; HPK-18. Did you have an extra friction plate in your kit? I had nine in my kit and only eight came out of the bike. I also noticed only eight on the exploded drawing of the GL1000 Clutch. I also noticed the Damper Plate was in the middle of the friction plates, four on each side. Mine was one friction plate away from the pressure plate. I am only guessing that Barnett put one too many in the package and a previous owner put the Damper Plate in the wrong place. What do you think?
Mahalo,
Michael
Aloha,
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83 GL1100 (Donor Bike)
00 XL883
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Re: Clutch Replacement Question

#23

Post by octane »

Needle wrote:Aloha Octane
Aloha Michael
CONGRATULATIONS on having
your brilliant bike on the FRONTPAGE !!!!
Thanks for a great how to on the clutch, it helped me immensely!
'A'ole pilikia !
Glad to be of assistance !

I noticed that you bought the same kit from Barnett that I bought; HPK-18. Did you have an extra friction plate in your kit?
Yep
I had nine in my kit and only eight came out of the bike. I also noticed only eight on the exploded drawing of the GL1000 Clutch. I also noticed the Damper Plate was in the middle of the friction plates, four on each side. Mine was one friction plate away from the pressure plate. I am only guessing that Barnett put one too many in the package and a previous owner put the Damper Plate in the wrong place......
not quite;
the damper plate was in fact
"one friction plate away from the pressure plate"
, on the very early models
and it was later 'moved' to the middle.

Image


..now about the ninth plate in the set ;
I've forgot, but
wasn't there some kind of explanation
on the note that came with the friction plate set?
I'll have to find it, but I think it had to do with the fact
that this set also suits some other Honda model(s)
that requires 9 plates.


A hui hou!
Lars
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Another Question

#24

Post by Needle »

Mahalo Octane,
My bike would be in the junkyard now, rather than being featured on the front page, if it wasn’t for the very knowledgeable and generous folks at Naked Goldwings! Your explanation does bring another question to mind; if they (Mother Honda) moved the Damper Plate to the middle on later models there must have been a reason, shouldn’t I put mine back together in the middle? Once again you are the man, you not only answer the question, but you show photos! :-D :-D :-D
Aloha,
Needle

75 GL1000
78 XS750SE
83 GL1100 (Donor Bike)
00 XL883
Put something exciting between your legs.....ride a motorcycle!
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Re: Another Question

#25

Post by octane »

Needle wrote:...
My bike would be in the junkyard now, rather than being featured on the front page, if it wasn’t for the very knowledgeable and generous folks at Naked Goldwings!
THAT is very kind of you to say.
Judging from your ALBUM
I'd say you could do pretty well on your own !

.. if they (Mother Honda) moved the Damper Plate to the middle on later models there must have been a reason, shouldn’t I put mine back together in the middle?
Yes I think you should !
According to one of my Clymer Manuals
having the damper plate in the position
shown on the upper photo above
"..will cause the clutch to grab.."

and Honda recommended the change in
clutch plate sequence waaaay back in 1976 (!)


.
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Clutch renewal. Engine in frame.

#26

Post by Try »

octane wrote:With the blower instaled the clutch just couldn't cope
so decided to install a new one.

Here goes:
What a great school you've made here Octane, feeling like
my first day on the school respekt2

Thanks for your time brother

--
Try
--
Try
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Oh S__t!

#27

Post by Needle »

Aloha Octane,
Sorry to be a bother, but now I'm looking at using an 83' GL1100 clutch in my '75 GL1000. The reason is that I broke the plate that compresses the clutch springs. :( I had a junk torque wrench and I was trying to do them evenly and it was defective or I was defective, either way it is toast now. :oops: I was just going to use the plate from my ’83 GL1100 that I’m parting out, but it is a completely different set up. So I searched the site and saw that some folks recommend using the more adjustable and easier to change clutch cable setup on the GL1100. It looks like I could take everything out and put it into the GL1000; do you know if it would work? I am also having problems getting the center nut off the GL1100 (this one will not budge with the screwdriver method) any suggestions? If this is a doomed experiment, do you know if anyone still sells this plate? Mahalo for any help you can offer and if you every get to the Islands, I owe ya dinner!
Aloha,
Needle

75 GL1000
78 XS750SE
83 GL1100 (Donor Bike)
00 XL883
Put something exciting between your legs.....ride a motorcycle!
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Re: Oh S__t!

#28

Post by octane »

Needle wrote:Aloha Octane,
Sorry to be a bother
You're not
.-)
The reason is that I broke the plate that compresses the clutch springs. :( I had a junk torque wrench and I was trying to do them evenly and it was defective or I was defective, either way it is toast now.
mmmm
Don't really need a torque wrench to compress them evenly.
Just do as the manual says:

"......install lifter plate bolts in
small increments, alternating bolts
in a criss-cross pattern to avoid breaking the plate..."

But you're not the first
and probably not the last.
Have a look here:
Clutch lifter plate

As for the 1100 clutch thing:
I'm afraid I can't help you as I don't know much
about them big overweight modern newfangled 1100 thingies
ha ha ha

Try asking Frenchy; he knows a lot about the 1100 / 1000
parts interchangeability, and he can probably help you with
a new/used 1000 lifter plate if you need one.

Mahalo for any help you can offer and if you every get to the Islands, I owe ya dinner!
Thanks Michael !!!
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Clutch renewal. Engine in frame.

#29

Post by octane »

Try wrote: Thanks for your time brother
Well; THANKS for YOURS !

..and all you've done to keep this brilliant place alive.
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#30

Post by wvboy »

I don't think I will ever get rid of my new fangled overweight 1100 as long as I can find parts and have access to Octane's vast Honda knowledge.

Just imagine what is in that brain he hasn't shared with us yet. I have seen him typing in more than a couple languages and I'd be willing to bet he has another passion or two other than Honda's in which he is just as brilliant.

THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE AND TEACH OCTANE, my hat is off to you.
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