The NGW Project Bike. Timing belts. Removal/installation
Moderator: Whiskerfish
- dp-money
- Brass Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:53 am
- Location: Red Oak, Texas
Octane's write up is like the blueprint to doing this job and worked fine for me in checking and re-doing my timing. Since I was down there checking everything and I could not verify if the guy I got the bike from had done the timing already (told me it was done about a year ago and the bike sat up for a year) I just changed them out to be on the safe side. Now I know when it was done for myself (I did it). Hope it starts up and all is fine on your timing job when the rain stops.
Life is what YOU make of it, RIDE it good, don't let it ride you!
79 GL 1000
79 GL 1000
- dp-money
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- Location: Red Oak, Texas
Just another note, "Octane-The Master" has several EXCELLENT write-ups with diagrams and is "Da Man" 8) !! I must say this and I don't want to step on anyone's feet . I am not knocking anybody else's knownledge, because everybody here has some type of good input here for MANY other do it yourself projects with details !! Just wanted to say that so no one would think they were obsolete.
Life is what YOU make of it, RIDE it good, don't let it ride you!
79 GL 1000
79 GL 1000
- Roady
- Member Relations &_Graphics
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Octane,
This is a spot-on tutorial.
Easy to understand and follow along, anyone could do this.
The only real problem I had was that Bubba "Muscles" McTorque was the last guy to open the timing mark and alternator bolt covers. Those had been clamped down with 200 lb.ft. or so. What a pain! Come on Bubba, they have little O-rings in 'em, don't'cha think they require just slightly over finger tight?
The only time consuming part of this process is polishing those covers .
Thanks, man! You're awesome.
I made this thread into an 8 page PDF that you can download, print out and bring with you to our workshop.
Download PDF of "Octane's Timing Belts Procedure"
More to come ...
This is a spot-on tutorial.
Easy to understand and follow along, anyone could do this.
The only real problem I had was that Bubba "Muscles" McTorque was the last guy to open the timing mark and alternator bolt covers. Those had been clamped down with 200 lb.ft. or so. What a pain! Come on Bubba, they have little O-rings in 'em, don't'cha think they require just slightly over finger tight?
The only time consuming part of this process is polishing those covers .
Thanks, man! You're awesome.
I made this thread into an 8 page PDF that you can download, print out and bring with you to our workshop.
Download PDF of "Octane's Timing Belts Procedure"
More to come ...
- doncoyote11
- Chrome Member
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- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 3:10 pm
- Location: Allegan, Michigan
- Zacsdaddy
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:26 pm
- Location: North Central Texas
I think my belt tensioners started howling on me this morning. It's from the front of the engine. It's engine speed related and it comes and goes.
So where can I get new tensioners? Bike Bandit lists them at $80.00+ each. Is that the best price?
Frenchy, please tell me you've got them cheaper.
Zacsdaddy
So where can I get new tensioners? Bike Bandit lists them at $80.00+ each. Is that the best price?
Frenchy, please tell me you've got them cheaper.
Zacsdaddy
1981 GL1100 That Mama found and bought for me.
1975 KZ400D That I found for Her and brought back to life.
"If the Women don't find you handsome, they ought to at least find you handy" - Red Green
1975 KZ400D That I found for Her and brought back to life.
"If the Women don't find you handsome, they ought to at least find you handy" - Red Green
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
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Thanks y'all for your kind words
and thanks Roady for the Pdf.
Great!
Glad you could use it!
Mine was a set of very 'dry' (as in 'dead' lubrication) tensioners.
New ones fixed the problem.
and thanks Roady for the Pdf.
Great!
You're welcome Dan.doncoyote11 wrote:Octane, You're tha Man!!
Followed the tutorial, minus the part about removing the radiator, and had the bike done in an hour and ten minutes. Then spent twenty minutes cleaning the bike after starting it with the timing plug off. Doh!!!
Great step by step, thanks.
Glad you could use it!
Yep. I had the same thing.Zacsdaddy wrote:I think my belt tensioners started howling on me this morning. It's from the front of the engine. It's engine speed related and it comes and goes.
Mine was a set of very 'dry' (as in 'dead' lubrication) tensioners.
New ones fixed the problem.
- dexter
- Zinc Member
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:07 pm
- Location: Adirondacks
Tensioners
Just did mine and found that unless the tension assembly was cleaned up well the spring would not pull to its full extent. Mine had some rust and some belt dust dampening the operation. As the engine expands does it matter if this is done cold or hot? Signed Rookie
DEXTER....
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- Rusty Probie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: Mentor, Ohio
Timing Belts.
Hi All,
This weekend is it. Time to do the belts.23,00 miles and 29 years is long enough. Octane's .pdf is the best and also Randakk's has some tips that will help. He's spot on with the tension check after the bike is warmed up. Thanks to all for the helpful hints here. BTW belts were $60 with tax from NAPA and are made by Gates for NAPA.
Lee AKA Hawkeye1
This weekend is it. Time to do the belts.23,00 miles and 29 years is long enough. Octane's .pdf is the best and also Randakk's has some tips that will help. He's spot on with the tension check after the bike is warmed up. Thanks to all for the helpful hints here. BTW belts were $60 with tax from NAPA and are made by Gates for NAPA.
Lee AKA Hawkeye1
Cave Canum,Pax Vobiscum
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missed a step
Hey, I am changing a head gasket and I followed the Clymer manual to remove the radiator, etc.
In the part about removing the timing belts, it didn't tell me to line up T1 and mark the pulleys, etc. so I just loosened the tensioners and removed the belts.
Now I have the right side disassembled and I'm ready to replace the head gasket, but I noticed one cylinder is out (almost flush with the end of the cylinder cavity) and the other is recessed.
What is the purpose of marking the pulleys and setting T1 before doing what I've done? Is it just to make it easier to get to the cylinders?
Can I just put the belts back on and then do that 1st process?
Any advice on the next step?
Thanks!
In the part about removing the timing belts, it didn't tell me to line up T1 and mark the pulleys, etc. so I just loosened the tensioners and removed the belts.
Now I have the right side disassembled and I'm ready to replace the head gasket, but I noticed one cylinder is out (almost flush with the end of the cylinder cavity) and the other is recessed.
What is the purpose of marking the pulleys and setting T1 before doing what I've done? Is it just to make it easier to get to the cylinders?
Can I just put the belts back on and then do that 1st process?
Any advice on the next step?
Thanks!
75 GL1000, love/hate relationship!
- Jester
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- dudley
- Zinc Member
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- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:28 pm
- Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Awesome detail and explanation! Extremely clear however, I have a couple of questions.
1. Why do you turn the engine over via the generator instead of the bolt on the crank at the front?
2. I understand clearly how to adjust the left belt tension but am a bit fuzzy on the right. You say to turn it over 360 degrees - no problem - but do I still turn the left cam sprocket with the spanner or the right? If the left, how does that introduce any slack to the belt on the right?
Many thanks.
1. Why do you turn the engine over via the generator instead of the bolt on the crank at the front?
2. I understand clearly how to adjust the left belt tension but am a bit fuzzy on the right. You say to turn it over 360 degrees - no problem - but do I still turn the left cam sprocket with the spanner or the right? If the left, how does that introduce any slack to the belt on the right?
Many thanks.
Regards,
Scott Dudley
Scott Dudley
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
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Hi Scott
.-)
I'm afraid I can't explain that,
just speculate:
...the generator is slightly 'over-driven'
so going 'backwards', turning the generator to turn the crank,
in effect, it's slightly under-driven (geared down)
so less bolt-stress turning the engine
than would have been if you used the crank bolt
...the generator bolt is sightly bigger. Longer and bigger size.
...the crank bolt is (donno the right term in English) "reverse"-threaded?
No I don't think so.
I should know: I had it off when I installed the
blower-pulley....naaaaa.
turn the right pulley (anticlockwise seen from the front, like on the pics)
when taking off slack while adjusting right side tensioner.
PS:
I've edited that section now
to clearify.
Because the manual says sodudley wrote: 1. Why do you turn the engine over via the generator instead of the bolt on the crank at the front?
.-)
I'm afraid I can't explain that,
just speculate:
...the generator is slightly 'over-driven'
so going 'backwards', turning the generator to turn the crank,
in effect, it's slightly under-driven (geared down)
so less bolt-stress turning the engine
than would have been if you used the crank bolt
...the generator bolt is sightly bigger. Longer and bigger size.
...the crank bolt is (donno the right term in English) "reverse"-threaded?
No I don't think so.
I should know: I had it off when I installed the
blower-pulley....naaaaa.
Right; you 'reverse' he whole procedure:2. I understand clearly how to adjust the left belt tension but am a bit fuzzy on the right. You say to turn it over 360 degrees - no problem - but do I still turn the left cam sprocket with the spanner or the right? If the left, how does that introduce any slack to the belt on the right?
turn the right pulley (anticlockwise seen from the front, like on the pics)
when taking off slack while adjusting right side tensioner.
You're welcome !Many thanks.
PS:
I've edited that section now
to clearify.
Da' Supercharged Bulldog
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
- Old Fogey
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Re: Interference engine?
Very much an interference motor! If a belt goes, so does your motor! Especially if you've got some revs onUniCacher wrote:I am picking up my '77 GL1000 next Saturday, engine history unknown. I'm getting a steal on it and it's from a friend that has kept good care of it, so I'm not too worried.
It does have 46,000 miles on it... probably time for new timing belts. Having blown one on my... um... car, I know it's an important thing to do! Question is, is the GL1000 an interference engine or not? In other words, how screwed am I if a belt breaks before I get to it?
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- dudley
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- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:28 pm
- Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Thanks Octane.
Replaced the belts last night and following your directions, this was a snap. Got everything lined up and tension adjustment instructions were spot on.
I didn't measure belt deflection (slack) but they're much tighter than before. The old ones were sloppy loose. I turned her over several more times with the wrench and everything is free and marks align perfectly.
Buttoned it up and hit the starter and man - this thing is tight. Brand new battery can hardly turn it over. I'm going to go back tonight and check belt deflection. I read somewhere that it should be 1/3 - 3/16"?
I'm surprised that unintentionally overtightened belts could do this. When I turned cam pulleys to tighten tensioners, I didn't crank on them - just took the slack out and let the tensioner springs do the rest.
Anyone else ever seen this? Again, timing marks align perfectly and with plugs out, turns over easily. Plugs in, and she sounds like an old car on a cold, sub-zero morning.
Replaced the belts last night and following your directions, this was a snap. Got everything lined up and tension adjustment instructions were spot on.
I didn't measure belt deflection (slack) but they're much tighter than before. The old ones were sloppy loose. I turned her over several more times with the wrench and everything is free and marks align perfectly.
Buttoned it up and hit the starter and man - this thing is tight. Brand new battery can hardly turn it over. I'm going to go back tonight and check belt deflection. I read somewhere that it should be 1/3 - 3/16"?
I'm surprised that unintentionally overtightened belts could do this. When I turned cam pulleys to tighten tensioners, I didn't crank on them - just took the slack out and let the tensioner springs do the rest.
Anyone else ever seen this? Again, timing marks align perfectly and with plugs out, turns over easily. Plugs in, and she sounds like an old car on a cold, sub-zero morning.
Regards,
Scott Dudley
Scott Dudley
- Whiskerfish
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Seems like I have heard a value for belt flex but I do not know as I have ever seen reference for it in a manual?? If you set the tension with the springs only and did not "help" them then I think you should be fine.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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