The NGW Project Bike. Timing belts. Removal/installation

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dblum
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#76

Post by dblum »

I finally changed my belts over the weekend. One question I have is about torque spec on the tensioner bolts. I can't find any reference to how much to torque to tensioner bolts. Is there a recommendation?
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hmratbam
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#77

Post by hmratbam »

There'll be a torque chart in the book. Go with the proper torque for that size bolt.
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Timing belts replacement on 81 Goldwing GL1100

#78

Post by neltrah »

I wish I would have seen the article before I changed mine. I lined up the marks like my manuel said, changed the belts, made sure the marks were still all lined up, but somehow it's out of time. It's close and wants to run, but is still out of time. I have worked with it for several days now, all marks line up, but it is still out of time. What am I missing????
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cgbarrett77
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Couple questions

#79

Post by cgbarrett77 »

Hi all, and thank you so much octane for your awesome contribution. I would have never thought I could have done something like this, but now I have no doubt I will do fine. I will be changing my belts this week and I have two questions.

1. I am uncertain about the instructions towards the end where it says "To tension the right hand belt [...snip...] the engine should be turned through 360 degrees and the little arrows on the cam-wheels should then face inwards..." If I only turn the engine through 360 degrees then the arrows would point back to the outside where they started. Does this mean I should turn it 360 and then an extra 180 so they are pointing inwards?

2. When I took my timing belt covers and gaskets off I found a dime size whole smack dab in the middle of where the two covers meet, part of a whole on each side. I was going to fill it with JB Weld for now and get new covers sometime later. This wont hurt anything will it?

Thanks for all of your help.
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#80

Post by Whiskerfish »

cgbarrett

When you rotate the Crankshaft one complete revolution the Cams only rotate 1/2 of a revolution. So a full trun on the crank will result in the cams being upside down and the spring tension of the valves that make it want to spin will be gone. Now you can get an accurate tensioning of the belt just using the tensioner spring as it is intended.

As for your covers they just keep out dirt and rain and such. If you can cover the hole just about anything will be ok so long as it is secure and will not get into the belts. I have a 3 inch hole in mine on my dresser for the alternator pulley to come through. It is not a problem.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
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2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
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Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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Re: Couple questions

#81

Post by Hoosier Daddy »

cgbarrett77 wrote: 1. If I only turn the engine through 360 degrees then the arrows would point back to the outside where they started. Does this mean I should turn it 360 and then an extra 180 so they are pointing inwards?
Nope, cams turn 1/2 of Crankshaft speed, (it's a 4 stroke engine) So 360 of cranksaft revolution is only 180 on the camsafts.
2. When I took my timing belt covers and gaskets off I found a dime size whole smack dab in the middle of where the two covers meet, part of a whole on each side. I was going to fill it with JB Weld for now and get new covers sometime later. This wont hurt anything will it?
Should be OK, other than keeping road grime, water, critters and fingers out of the belts and tensioners, you could probably even run them "open" , (man that just sounds all wrong though), But they really don't keep anything "In".
Do us a favor and put the year of your GL in your sig, it helps us give accurate advise at times. If I remember right it's a 1000, I got a couple of spare covers if your interested, PM me.
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#82

Post by cgbarrett77 »

Ok, I understand now. Thanks a lot for your help guys. Wish me luck on changing the belts this week. I will also be changing my rear rotor, not looking forward to that but my neighbor will be helping. Also, I added year and model like you asked hoosierdaddy, thanks for the tip.
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Hoosier Daddy
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#83

Post by Hoosier Daddy »

tumb2 Since you're going to have the rear wheel off to change the rotor, might wanna read this since you will be in the "neighborhood" anyway.
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Bulldoged '81 GL1100 "BOMBER!" BUILD THREAD
Bratstyle '80 GS750L "OVERKILL"
Cafe'd '81 CB750C "ROCK-IT"
Basket Case '72 CB450 K5 "NO CLASS"
Resto-Mod '67 BSA Spitfire "STAY CLEAN"

rainstromrider say's I'm "addicted to the build"... I think he might onto something :)
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Wow and Thanks! but need '83 belt numbers

#84

Post by DutchPurrpl »

I've got the front and rear wheels off my 83 1100 standard to get new tires put on, and found your magnificent tips. I'm now going to start the timing belt replacement and then SodBuster's drive spline Moly 60 lube job.

Big question: what are the cross numbers for reasonably priced neighborhood auto parts timing belts for an '83 GL 1100? I really don't want to pay $84 apiece. OEM belts just can't be 6 times as good!
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Re: Wow and Thanks! but need '83 belt numbers

#85

Post by Whiskerfish »

DutchPurrpl wrote: Big question: what are the cross numbers for reasonably priced neighborhood auto parts timing belts for an '83 GL 1100? I really don't want to pay $84 apiece. OEM belts just can't be 6 times as good!
1100 belts are the same as the 1000 belts and are listed here: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7416 Second post down.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
DutchPurrpl

#86

Post by DutchPurrpl »

Thanks, WF. I knew any bunch this good would have it...just couldn't find it. I've bookmarked that page now. I hope I don't wear it out! I'll let you all know how it goes.
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#87

Post by cgbarrett77 »

Anyone have any ideas on a tool I can use other than a 12 mm offset wrennch? I have been going everywhere local and I can't find any in metric. I have found them online, but I need it by tommorow or Saturday so I can have my belts changed before a ride on Sunday. Thus, I am looking for a possible alternative.
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#88

Post by Whiskerfish »

Are you asking about the wrench used to hold the RH Cam in place? If so it is not critical. I let it go then use a wrench the turn it back into alignment before placing the belt on it. it will not hurt anything so long as you do not rotate the crank.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#89

Post by Whiskerfish »

One thing worth mentioning is when doing the belt alignment is to get down eyeball level with the engine. Don't look at it from 3 feet above. You need to have you head down there looking straight at it.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#90

Post by kitbutterfield »

If you're talking about the offset wrench for the generator bolt, I don't know that you absolutely need it.
I didn't have one, when I changed my GL1000 belts.
I think I used a 12mm socket/ratchet.
You also won't have the kick starter to contend with.
KB
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