The NGW Project Bike. Timing belts. Removal/installation

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octane
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Re: Interference engine?

#16

Post by octane »

LOL
Thanks Bart

UniCacher wrote:I am picking up my '77 GL1000 next Saturday, engine history unknown. I'm getting a steal on it and it's from a friend that has kept good care of it, so I'm not too worried.

It does have 46,000 miles on it... probably time for new timing belts. Having blown one on my... um... car, I know it's an important thing to do! Question is, is the GL1000 an interference engine or not?
If you mean; will it bend the valves etc. if a belt breaks;
..then:
Yes it is.
In other words, how screwed am I if a belt breaks before I get to it?
As Q said: screwed!


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Thanks

#17

Post by Alabass »

Great post. I've taken this post and created a pdf file to make it more manageable to print out and put in my files at home (hope that's ok). If someone else would like a copy to print out, let me know. It ended up being about 29 pages.
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#18

Post by BLACKGOLD »

Octane, you said that new belts can change the timing. How do you check/adjust timing? This is one of the things I didn't do the last time I did the belts. BTW, thanks for the tip for the right side tensioner. tumb2
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timing belt replacement

#19

Post by goldwing78 »

New ride here...well, 30yrs out of the seat - now bak in.
Bought a '78 GL1000 (34K) in July...had a great summer getting reacquainted with the road...now winter projects have begin.
Timing Belt replacement was one of the first. And thanks to the wonderful post by Octane - no problem. Removed the radiator - a good way to go. Start to finish - in under 2 hrs.....now its onto polishing those timing belt covers (the time consuming part).
Anyway - new to the sight - just wanted to say thanks for the wonderful info/photos......dave
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#20

Post by QUEEENlE »

Welcome to Naked Goldwings ...goldwings78 ...glad to have you here ....as you can see some great folks here with some great advice and lots of knowledge ...and willing to share that knowledge ...again welcome stay safe and ride naked .. i do.

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We'll giver 'er a try...

#21

Post by sandback »

Octane,

Looks like a great how-to. I am going to attempt to replace the timing belts on my 76 this weekend. I am using your pictorial guide based on Randakk's strong endorsement [of it] on his website. I'll let you know how it goes...

One question... Do I need to replace the timing cover gaskets? As these are just an environmental seal, I would think that I could re-use the same gaskets if I don't destroy them when removing the covers.

Wish me luck...
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Re use

#22

Post by Rat »

You should be able to re use the old gaskets if they're half decent.

I did.

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How Do I know The Center Pully Is Correctly Placed?

#23

Post by zowie »

Just wondering how one would know if the center pully was placed correctly the last time the belt was changed? Is there a way to tell if it's in the right place?

Thanks much,
Barry
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#24

Post by dp-money »

Wonderful , just wonderful, now I have a blue print for the timing check and replacement. I think I'm in love!!!
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#25

Post by dp-money »

One question, will this also work for the 79 versions? I noticed it said 77.
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#26

Post by dp-money »

One question, will this also work for the 79 versions? I noticed it said 77.
Life is what YOU make of it, RIDE it good, don't let it ride you!

79 GL 1000
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octane
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Re: How Do I know The Center Pully Is Correctly Placed?

#27

Post by octane »

zowie wrote:Just wondering how one would know if the center pully was placed correctly the last time the belt was changed? Is there a way to tell if it's in the right place?

Thanks much,
Barry
Seattle
Berry I'm not sure if I understand your question (!?)
but
you can line up this mark:
Image

and check if the cam pully marks line up
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octane
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#28

Post by octane »

dp-money wrote:One question, will this also work for the 79 versions? I noticed it said 77.
Hi DP ...WELCOME to the forum!

...the answer to your question is yes.
This part of the engine is exactly the same on the 79.
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#29

Post by dp-money »

"octane"
Thanks for the welcome and info. She looks good just need to get out all the bugs.
Life is what YOU make of it, RIDE it good, don't let it ride you!

79 GL 1000
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a duh..

#30

Post by clockcycle »

Anyone new, that hasn't done this and is reading this reply, do not do as I did, as I was wrong..

Ever read stuff over and over to make sure you're gonna do it right? Welp I have been reading this write up since the day I knew a goldwing was for me. Then I read some other tips online, mostly all the same with different tips here and there.

Welp I decided to take on the task, with the clymer book on the saddle open to help with the instructions. I foolishly didn't print this write up.. sigh..

Refering to Clymer, it says T 1-2. Ok so I take everything apart, tried moving the radiator forward. Tools are a tight fit. So I said what the heck might as well refill the radiator too. Couldn't get the hoses off so I cut them, should replace them anyways (note; wow everything I have removed has been stock and even though the bike has been weathered for 28 years, stock stuff sure holds up and holds on TIGHT!).

Anyways I take off the covers, align T 1 F and mark it on the crank pulley. Loosen the tensioner bolts, took the belt off, made sure L arrow met the mark, checked T 1 F.. All aligned.

Then went for R.. haha I laugh at myself for this mistake. I started really wanting a friend nearby right now, started thinking, wow this is when a girlfriend might come in handy.. Everything would roll or move out of alignment.. BUT here's the worst part; I was trying to get R arrows to mark and align to, get this, T 2 F (doh)..

Ok done, check tention, spun, tightened.. nice Looks like I finished.. Well something seemed wrong, I remember the instructions here, and on the manual mentioned that both cam pulleys should be in the UP position..

What! try and try dissasembling, deatching, rotating, I just can not get both of them in the UP position and keep L - T 1 F and R - T 2 F aligned.

So I say something is weird about that instruction in the Clymer manual T 1-2.. humm, I say forget that and check Octane's write up again and again.. No picture or mention of T 2 F anywhere at all.. Only T 1 F, so I say that must just be it and that simple, align both L & R UP and make sure the arrows meet the mark, with T 1 F meeting the mark. Let the tention springies do thier thing and tighten it all up.

Haven't tested yet, started to rain on me just as I got the covers back on. Gotta get to the auto shop now and get replacement radiator hoses for the ones I mutilated and maybe some new clamps as well, even though the originals held on for dear life..
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