Red Belly 2.0
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- wingrider
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3724
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 12:15 pm
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Re: Red Belly (!)
This is just a thought, but you will probably find the 1200 carbs a bit wide for the 1100.
Guys that want to put EFI on their 1000’s and 1100’s take the 1200 efi setup, but have to cut a bit out of the plenum to make it fit.
Guys that want to put EFI on their 1000’s and 1100’s take the 1200 efi setup, but have to cut a bit out of the plenum to make it fit.
2002 1800 Wing
2001 Valkyrie Interstate
1978 1200 EFI Wing with Motorvation Coupe Royale sidecar
1977 1200 Wing cafe/bobber project
1974 Suzuki GT550
2001 Valkyrie Interstate
1978 1200 EFI Wing with Motorvation Coupe Royale sidecar
1977 1200 Wing cafe/bobber project
1974 Suzuki GT550
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- True Blue Steel Biker
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- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
In the absence of any significant benefit and in consideration of the complications, it seems wise to just save the 1200 rack for one of the 1200 blocks I have accumulated. 1200 carbs are easy to work on but if they can't be easily made to fit then I will go with 1100 carbs.
Work on the tail section continues but I think I see the end in sight! (no pun intended!)
Work on the tail section continues but I think I see the end in sight! (no pun intended!)
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
I have completed, at least for now, the tail section and moved on to stripping the rest of the components from the frame. I will leave the front end on for a bit as it seems easier to work on with the front end mounted.
Spent quite a bit of time removing and disassembling the rear wheel and brake. Apparently the bike was ridden for some time with the rear brake dragging to the point that the pads were worn almost to the metal and the disk had a significant ridge around the outside edge caused by wear from the pads. Those familiar with the GL1100 dual piston calipers will recall the two pins used to hold the brake pads in place. These slide through the caliper and are held in place with a metal clip and can ordinarily be removed by simply removing the clip and pushing the pins through the caliper with a drift or small screwdriver. Occasionally they have enough gunk on them to make pushing them through more difficult but never really hard (in my previous experience with quite a number of these). In this case they were practically welded in place. I spent probably an hour or more hammering them out.
Then came the bleeder valve, after struggling with it for some time it eventually broke off flush with the caliper housing. This was serious! Drilling is possible and in fact the only option since my "easy outs" just twisted in the soft metal, but since this valve seats in the bottom, drilling was a double challenge. Short version: I think I got it drilled and tapped properly but wont know for sure till I try to bleed it after installation.
Considering how worn the disk is and and how difficult these components were to remove, my assumption is that the caliper became very hot, probably several times, and bonded with the bleeder valve and brake pad pins. So, will that mean the pistons are also bonded? Well, fortunately not. They were not easy to remove, but then they never are. Air is always the first choice but almost never works so my fall back is the grease gun. Very effective but very messy.
Spent quite a bit of time removing and disassembling the rear wheel and brake. Apparently the bike was ridden for some time with the rear brake dragging to the point that the pads were worn almost to the metal and the disk had a significant ridge around the outside edge caused by wear from the pads. Those familiar with the GL1100 dual piston calipers will recall the two pins used to hold the brake pads in place. These slide through the caliper and are held in place with a metal clip and can ordinarily be removed by simply removing the clip and pushing the pins through the caliper with a drift or small screwdriver. Occasionally they have enough gunk on them to make pushing them through more difficult but never really hard (in my previous experience with quite a number of these). In this case they were practically welded in place. I spent probably an hour or more hammering them out.
Then came the bleeder valve, after struggling with it for some time it eventually broke off flush with the caliper housing. This was serious! Drilling is possible and in fact the only option since my "easy outs" just twisted in the soft metal, but since this valve seats in the bottom, drilling was a double challenge. Short version: I think I got it drilled and tapped properly but wont know for sure till I try to bleed it after installation.
Considering how worn the disk is and and how difficult these components were to remove, my assumption is that the caliper became very hot, probably several times, and bonded with the bleeder valve and brake pad pins. So, will that mean the pistons are also bonded? Well, fortunately not. They were not easy to remove, but then they never are. Air is always the first choice but almost never works so my fall back is the grease gun. Very effective but very messy.
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- Be sure both pistons come out together or you will have a real problem!
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- Messy, messy, messy.
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Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Rat
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- Location: Toronto .... Canada
Re: Red Belly (!)
You would have had to clean 'em anyway ....
Gord
Gord
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
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- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
I had a front end from an '87 GL1200 setting around waiting for a good use and decided this was it. So off with the front end and on with the complete '87. It has good rotors and calipers (subject to cleaning and new seals) and will give me a 16 inch front tire to match the back and 41mm fork tubes instead of the 39mm of the '83. I also tracked down a replacement rotor for the rear wheel which had the worn rotor. Lots and lots of cleaning and sanding ahead of me now.
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
After a careful look at the rear caliper shown above, I concluded it was not going to be possible for me to seal the bleeder hole. Since I had a spare and also needed to service the two calipers from the GL1200 front end, I decided to set up with a spare master cylinder and short section of handlebar mounted in the vice in order to remove (hopefully) the pistons from four different calipers. Using water instead of brake fluid and using a clean (new) bleeder valve I was able to remove all of the pistons with very little drama. And yes RAT, they still have to be cleaned but the water doesn't make near the mess the grease does!
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- 006.jpg (101.11 KiB) Viewed 228 times
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
My new-to-me carbs arrived yesterday so this morning I opened the box and began the process of examination and cleaning. At first they looked good, screws were not rusted or chewed up and everything was still attached and in place. Caps came off first with no real issues, two of the slides are stuck due to dried gas but don't appear to be damaged. They should loosen in the ultrasonic cleaner. Next came the bowls, still OK just some dried gas and a bit of grit ---BUT then I noticed the air adjustment screws---two were broken off, one requiring a slot to be cut for a screwdriver to remove. Unfortunately that was not the real problem. The real problem is that three of the four have the tips broken off! I have seen this in a set of CB750 carbs but these are the first Goldwing carbs I have encountered that have been damaged in this way.
So, I need a little help here, any suggestions for removing this tip from the carb body? Can it be pushed through?
So, I need a little help here, any suggestions for removing this tip from the carb body? Can it be pushed through?
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Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
While the "new" carbs are in the ultrasonic cleaner, I removed the rotors from the front wheel and began the process of removing the tire. It felt like it still had air in it but when I removed the valve stem (literally the whole stem popped off).
I think it would qualify as a "run flat" tire. Anyway, using a couple of large C-clamps, I was able to break the beads and eventually got one side off the rim. Unfortunately I was not going anywhere with the back side. So, using a couple of oak scraps I had laying around, I wedged the tire out enough to cut it off with the reciprocating saw.
I was impressed with the construction of this tire. It would take a lot to ruin one of these Dunlop 404 tires.
I think it would qualify as a "run flat" tire. Anyway, using a couple of large C-clamps, I was able to break the beads and eventually got one side off the rim. Unfortunately I was not going anywhere with the back side. So, using a couple of oak scraps I had laying around, I wedged the tire out enough to cut it off with the reciprocating saw.
I was impressed with the construction of this tire. It would take a lot to ruin one of these Dunlop 404 tires.
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- 013.jpg (85.31 KiB) Viewed 224 times
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
Carbs are all cleaned up and reassembled. Just need Pilot screws and O rings. I forgot to take a picture, but they look good. Caps will either be polished or powder coated. I was very fortunate in that a close exam revealed that only one of the broken pilot screw tips was still in the carb body and that was easily pushed out by screwing my one "good" pilot screw in and pushing the tip through into the throat.
Still have the rear tire to dismount and I guess I can't put off starting on the gas tank.
Still have the rear tire to dismount and I guess I can't put off starting on the gas tank.
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- sparkyrasmus
- Titanium Member
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- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:52 am
- Location: Marshall, MN, USA
Re: Red Belly (!)
I'm curious about the carb switch as well. I found the 1100 carbs easy to clean but dislike the feed tubes between them. But after having a plenum gasket swell up and clog the feeds on the 78 from one side to the other I understand Ma Honda's decisions to go to the tubes.
Goldwings don't accelerate, they gain inertia.
1978 GL1000 - almost stock - needs a head replaced, parts are ready to install!
1979 GL1000 - Winter project/parts bike - custom "Busted"
1983 GL1100 Standard- raised from the dead and back to organ donor status
And the newest acquisition, 1979 XS 650F to be a sidecar tug.
1978 GL1000 - almost stock - needs a head replaced, parts are ready to install!
1979 GL1000 - Winter project/parts bike - custom "Busted"
1983 GL1100 Standard- raised from the dead and back to organ donor status
And the newest acquisition, 1979 XS 650F to be a sidecar tug.
- Easter
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
After their bath and reassembly the carbs look a lot better. I have replacement screws and the caps will be gussied up but the big question is: Will they run?" It will be a while before I can try them out. And I am off for a few days so nothing more of any kind will happen till next week.
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Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- sparkyrasmus
- Titanium Member
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:52 am
- Location: Marshall, MN, USA
Re: Red Belly (!)
Lookin good. After I finish the major remodel on my daughter's house and garage (siding now) I hope to be able to do the same! These bikes do keep us out of mischief.
Goldwings don't accelerate, they gain inertia.
1978 GL1000 - almost stock - needs a head replaced, parts are ready to install!
1979 GL1000 - Winter project/parts bike - custom "Busted"
1983 GL1100 Standard- raised from the dead and back to organ donor status
And the newest acquisition, 1979 XS 650F to be a sidecar tug.
1978 GL1000 - almost stock - needs a head replaced, parts are ready to install!
1979 GL1000 - Winter project/parts bike - custom "Busted"
1983 GL1100 Standard- raised from the dead and back to organ donor status
And the newest acquisition, 1979 XS 650F to be a sidecar tug.
- BikeMaine
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- Easter
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- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:33 am
- Location: South of Houston 100 miles
Re: Red Belly (!)
I have reassembled and painted the calipers and spent a good deal of time cleaning the frame in prep for painting. It has been way to wet here the last few weeks to paint so I am busy with odds and ends. I hooked up the gas tank for electrolysis and let it work for several days but as the rust dissolved I discovered several leaks in the back of the tank. So, out to the shed in search of a GL 1100 tank in better condition. I only had one but it turns out to be quite good on the inside and only a few non OEM dents on the outside. I poured a gallon of Evaporust in the tank and sloshed it around for a couple of days, then after rinsing with water per the instructions, I sprayed the inside with WD40 to hopefully prevent flash rust.
Then on to the outside. It will need a couple of dents filled since I am not using side covers and it will be visible. A previous owner inscribed his name and address into the tank so that will have to be filled as well. Stripping all the paint seemed the best way to start.
I bought this gallon of stripper at O'Rileys a year or so ago and used about 1/3. Apparently I did not clean off the top before storing. The stripper was a bit lumpy on the top but seemed to work as good as always. Brush it on, scrape it off and rinse. I hope to get a coat of etching primer on this evening before it starts to rust.
Then on to the outside. It will need a couple of dents filled since I am not using side covers and it will be visible. A previous owner inscribed his name and address into the tank so that will have to be filled as well. Stripping all the paint seemed the best way to start.
I bought this gallon of stripper at O'Rileys a year or so ago and used about 1/3. Apparently I did not clean off the top before storing. The stripper was a bit lumpy on the top but seemed to work as good as always. Brush it on, scrape it off and rinse. I hope to get a coat of etching primer on this evening before it starts to rust.
- Attachments
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- 005 (4).jpg (92.42 KiB) Viewed 124 times
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- 006 (2).jpg (71.54 KiB) Viewed 124 times
Bikes at present:
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process
- BikeMaine
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1105
- Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:57 pm
- Location: Maine, U.S.A.
Re: Red Belly (!)
Wow, the metal for the top of that can must be different than the rest??
Kevin
1982 GL1100A
1982 GL1100A