lol. I had to shorten the sidestand on my '78 as well. Lower the bike a couple of inches (~4 cm) and you find out pretty quickly that a strong wind will then be able to blow it over - unless it's shorter.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
DonGold wrote:Does anyone know if you can modify the air box without running problems so it fit under the shape of the frame?
I think if the original flow characteristics are not affected, you should be OK. It seems that folks run into problems when they abandon the original box for other ideas with completely different airflow volume. If your modification could retain the original (or similar filter) and not open the box any more than the current intake ports provide, it won't lean out and I think you'd be fine.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
Of course. I've never done it, but I've heard that it is a royal pain of trial and error. It'd be a lot less of a hassle if the jet changes were a bit easier to accomplish. I guess you could get lucky and hit the right combo on the first try...or not.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
Good Morning Don;
That is exactly what I did to my '84 1200. It was a porky 800 LBS when I started, now it is 600 LBS. Save yourself some work, start out with an 1100 shelter (false tank) and rework it from there. What you have mocked up looks good too, but you will have to relocate all the electronics and the overflow bottle.
You will spend hours and hours cutting and shortening the wiring, lots of solder and heat shrink tubing will be required. New master cylinders are also required to get the fluid reservoirs level.
It all depends on how radical you want to be, and how much ridability / comfort you are willing to give up. I wanted to retain my fuel capacity and build what the Brits call a 'gentleman's express', but that is why we are here, we can do what we want.
Mike Coleman
'84 Wing-Lite (ex-Aspencade)
'84 un-Terstate
'84 Standard (as yet un-named)
I would like to remove the overflow bottle and drive without. Should work in my opinion. The power of the radiator is designed with reserve and with 100 pounds less and better airflow, it should not be a problem. And its only 15 fl oz less. I could also make a switch for the fan so he can be turned on by hand.
dontwantapickle wrote:It looks like putting that cut kickstand down would be a P.I.T.A.
With the bike lowered significantly, there's definitely not enough lean to be safe - especially if there's a slight upslope to the left. Stand has to be modified. I've not seen a lot of discussion on this here, probably because it's a relatively obvious change, but...
Of course the sidestand needs a foot. My '78 is lowered about 2" in the back and an inch in front and I only needed to take about 3/4" off the stand. Welded the foot back on.
...this after buying a couple of different GL stands off ebay only to find them all too long. At least I had a couple of spares in case I screwed this one up. Actually got it right on the first try! (OK, maybe the angle is a little off)
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- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
There's a reason everything made for the last 40-odd years has an overflow tank. If you remove it the relief tube will puke water until there's enough air in the radiator for expansion space. Which cuts back on cooling a little bit, and is messy.
It isn't just an over flow bottle. It is part of the recovery system. When the bike gets warm it pushes some coolant in to the reservoir. As it cools back down the coolant is drawn back in the radiator.
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1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder