Out of the Dumpster

[Easter]

OK, since no one seemed to like the potential for the King/Queen (aka dual tractor seat) I kind of like the way this Sportster (I think) seat looks on here. With a front mount it will pull down tighter and just might work.

My new light came today and I am happy with it. Seems to be made well and was really cheap. (Ebay) Ad said it was aluminum but I think steel. Very nice chrome finish. I also got all the kits for rebuilding the calipers and they are now ready to mount. Still need brake lines and master cylinders. The back one is cleaned up and ready for the kit, haven't decided what to do about the front. Looking for something sporty but all the ones currently listed are 14mm which is too small for dual calipers.

Headed to Oklahoma in the morning so will be mostly off line for a while. I can respond from my phone but obviously I won't be making any progress in the shop.

[Easter]

Back in the garage this week. Got the front calipers mounted and the kit for the rear master cylinder came this morning so I installed that and mounted it to the bike. I ordered a special stainless brake line for the back brakes and that was in also. I am kind of proud of it because it was a perfect fit and very easy to install with banjo connectors at both ends. The only thing to remember if you choose to use banjo connectors is the master cylinder has an insert in the outlet hole to mate with the brass flare fitting. This must be removed (I used an extractor for broken screws) to allow the special banjo bolt to seat in far enough to prevent leaks. Progress is likely to slow a bit as I wait to order several major components. I have decided to use the Motogadget system for rewiring and I will use the Dyna S electronic ignition and coils. Progressive shocks are also the most likely candidate for the rear suspension. Then there is the exhaust system, probably something besides Sportster mufflers this time. Obviously this will not end up being a $2000 flip project even if it did start out in the dumpster.

By the way, I am not sure if that part number shown in the photo will get you the special brake line I ordered or the standard one meant to be assembled in combination with the brass tubing. I was told they didn't have a part number for what I ordered but they built it to my specifications so I am a little surprised my package has the same part number.

[wannabridin]

Looks great so far!!!

Where is that headlight guard from? That it SO much cleaner than the ones I've used in the past

[Easter]

I was pleased with the quality of the headlight, the screen is an integral part of the assembly. I bought it from an ebay dealer called 2wheelproject for $40.

[wannabridin]

thank you!

Here is it in case anyone else is interested: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Chrome-Univ ... 2466057813

I wonder if the optics can be swapped... I have a nice e-code housing that I like to use

[Easter]

Yesterday brought a bit of diversion. A guy that owed me some money traded this BMW R1100RT instead. I spent most of the day stripping the plastic off to see if there was any serious damage to the bike. I am not sure what to do with it but I have observed a few things. One, this model is really ugly when naked. Two, the wiring is much more complicated than our early wings. Three, Goldwing owners are not the only ones who insist on adding gizmos and bad wiring to already complex systems. This one has air horns and audio equipment that didn't come stock. It doesn't appear anything besides the plastic was damaged in the accident but I have not tried to start it. These are or were highly regarded bikes but replacing all the plastic would be expensive. If it runs and drives good (brakes are not working but it appears to shift ok) it might be worth it. More likely I will just part it out.

[Easter]

Today was my lucky day! Mail carrier delivered my Motogadget kit and my Dyna S kit with coils. So now I have something useful to do on these hot humid Texas summer days. (101 today--the worm has turned!) I spent a good deal of yesterday trying to decide how to fill the gap underneath the Sportster seat between the tank and the rear fender. Finally settled on a cover panel made from the tail end of a GL1100 rear fender. After a couple of hours of cutting, grinding and fitting it almost looks like it belongs. Once it is painted along with the rear fender I think (hope) it will look fine. You have to squat down to see it anyway.
So on with the Dyna kit, no issues there (yet) as I can only go so far with it until the rest of the wiring is in place. Then started with the M unit from Motogadget. I bought the complete kit with the little button that goes inside the front handle bars to "simplify" wiring. Drilling the correct holes in my handlebar may be another story entirely. As photo one shows I found the perfect location for mounting the M unit ---that is until I read the instruction sheet which says it must be located at least 30 cm from the coils and high tension wires. If I am not mistaken that equals one foot more or less. Obviously my first choice was out.

I really want to eliminate the stock side panels if possible so I have been trying to avoid using the battery holder and associated electronic components. So where can I go with the M unit and its wires? Well why not under the filler panel I so carefully hacked out and mounted under the seat? I think it will work!

And that's all for now folks.

[Easter]

This wiring business is going really slow as (1) I don't know what I am doing and (2) it is a hundred degrees in the shade. I have worked through a few issues and spent some time studying and redrawing the wiring diagrams (Factory GL1100, Motogadget and Sunbobb's). Although Sunbobb and I are both installing the M unit on GL1100 engines he is using the stock CDI while I am using the Dyna S unit with GL1000 heads. So the wiring diagram is significantly different.

I have a question--why do the GL1100 and other bikes of the era have "ignitors" while the GL1000 does not--and what do they do?

I opted to use the combination Regulator/Rectifier from the GL1100, just removed the connector and soldered longer wires and connectors. My starter solenoid is on order as well as my battery so I can't cut and terminate a lot of these wires yet. My plan is to place the battery in the tool tray under the shelter cover so that means a small battery. Haven't settled on one at this point but am trying to stay away from the lithium in favor of something that is not so charging current sensitive (and susceptible to fire).

[robin1731]

snip.................
I have a question--why do the GL1100 and other bikes of the era have "ignitors" while the GL1000 does not--and what do they do?

Many models had the ignitors back then. Not just Honda. It's just part of their electronic ignition. The early Dyna, the Dyna III had a separate box too. Serves the same purpose as those ignitors.

.

[Easter]

Pulled the fenders to have sand blasted along with handlebars and a few other small parts for powder coating. Meanwhile the solenoid and battery arrived so I can work out placement and wire lengths. It is a slow process for me, lots of meditating and measuring. Installing the M unit is pretty straightforward but it is locating and wiring all the other electronic hardware that seems to be taking me the most time--fan and sensors and gauges and idiot lights etc. Photos show some progress but the trick for me is "one problem at a time" or "one component at a time".

[ericheath]

I have the eight cell Ballistic and now that it gets adequate recharging, it cranks great and when warm for a long time. The twelve cell should crank it over with ease.

With the regulator sense wire direct to the battery on mine, it would not charge it the way it should for LiFePo4 batteries. It would slowly discharge and leave me dead on the side of the road. Now it is set up like stock through the switches etc and it loses enough voltage through each connection to think the battery needs more charge and gets it. Something to consider. I'm running just the stock headlight, front marker lights and red taillight.

I think they need a LIFEPO4 dedicated regulator to run properly. Maybe they'll comeback with adjustable regulators as in the old days.

You can mount it sideways or upside down.

[Easter]

I used one of these batteries in a CB400 project a couple of years ago with no problems during the time I owned it, which granted was not very long. I think it was an 8 cell, maybe a 6. In this picture it looks like the battery is too tall for the tray but the cover fits down with no problem and the supplied foam makes a secure nest. I will put a rubber insulator over the top to insure no contact between the positive lead and the metal shelter cover. The ground wire goes down to the front motor mount and slots in the front of the tray will make it possible to access the air filter with a minimum of hassle. Because a lot of the wiring actually goes inside the handle bar and mine is out for powder coating, I can't go too far with the wiring yet. A lot of the metering and instrumentation are yet to be sorted out. And of course there is no testing possible until at least most of the system is in place. So at this point I am working by theory and that is a little shaky.

[Easter]

The fenders are still out for sandblasting but a lot of other stuff has come in so I was able to make some progress this week. Wiring has been a challenge but most of it is now sorted though I have some tidying up to do yet. Handlebars are back from the powder coater so I was able to install the M-button and switch (one three button control switch) as well as the new master cylinder and freshly powder coated clutch lever assembly. Carbs came back from Mike Nixon this week and I got them installed today. Air box is in so I am ready to fire it up as soon as I get the courage!! I ordered a set of stainless brake lines for the front that were promoted as specific to the GL. As you can see from the picture they are a bit long for my application. Hoping the manufacturer will either cut them down for me or substitute some shorter ones.

If I feel lucky, I will prime the carbs and see if it will start tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[Easter]

It has been a frustrating couple of days. I have been trying to start the bike (and it actually did fire up briefly a couple of times) but my problem(s) have centered around slow starter action, or none at all. The new solenoid gives a good solid click but most of the time the starter doesn't do anything. I have spent a lot of time checking grounds and substituting cables even tried three different starters (on and off probably six times). I found an old solenoid on one of the parts bikes and wired it in with essentially the same results. The battery acts like it has plenty of juice (though I have charged it a couple of times) and the horn is really loud (not very scientific I know but my experience has been that these old stock horns won't squawk very loud unless the engine is running or the battery is at full charge). The starters are getting very hot when they do work. One of the first things I checked was excessive compression or mechanical resistance in the engine but it turns over with the alternator bolt at what seems to me to be normal resistance.

I have just about come to the conclusion that the 12 cell battery I installed is not going to do the job. I may have some time tomorrow to switch in a conventional battery from another bike and see if that makes the difference. Otherwise I am at wits end.

[ericheath]

What's the resting voltage of the Ballistic? I have the same eight cell in my 1200 with 1000 heads and cams advanced a little. It spins it over easily. At first it didn't have a lot of crank time, but since keeping it charged up in the 14's while riding it works great and cranks a long time for compression tests or priming carbs. I think it's four years old. Resting voltage in the morning is usually 13.8 on mine.