MotoNudo Build

[CYBORG]

I would clean it up, and apply some grease, and use it

[Lads]

Sounds good. Glad it will work.

[Lads]

Also, caliper pistons show a mall amount of pitting in a ring close to the pad end. I have done some fine sanding with crocus paper. Any reason to be concerned? They seemed to be functional when I was driving them out with the master cylinder.

[CYBORG]

If the area doesn't contact the seal, I would use them

[Lads]

Final drive has some gunk in it. I have the hub oil recommended by Randakk's but wondered what would be a good flush agent?

[Lads]

Not a great pic but you can see the gunk.

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Worked on the brakes. Got the calipers apart, serious crap in the cylinder:

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The pads show the 39 years of sitting.

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Ordered rebuild kits and pads for all three. Will be fitting new lines as well.

[sunnbobb]

ohh that is a project!

[Lads]

Sunnbobb, I had a couple,of questions for you. I am looking to lower the stance of the bike slightly. Any feel for the easiest way to do that? Lower the tree on the forks? Shave the rear shock?

I am sticking with the stock "tank" instead of the custom idea I had, maybe a later project. I am looking at clip-on bars to lower the riders stance as well. Do you think progressive shocks are in order? I am 185, probably will have a passenger every so often. I have heard various opinions, figured you may have looked into this.

[Lads]

Working on the front forks. I knew this was going to be a bear based on all the other threads. The oil was nasty and there was mucho gunk around the seals. The oil would not drain from the drain plug due to crud.

I fashioned the tool,suggested in Randakk's blog, to remove the seal.

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But no luck, the seal flange gave way before it would come out.

I have a few gouges from the removal process. I have sanded them with crocus paper but they are still noticeable. Any concerns or ideas before I install the new seals?

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The springs are close to original tolerances, which is much like the rest of the bike measurements. 22.25" and 22.19" versus the original spec of 22.4 and a min tolerance of 19.5"

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I know the wiper seal on the 75 model is no longer used but what takes up the extra room between the seal and retainer clip? Are the new seals thicker? I don't have my new ones yet.

[Norbert R]

I had the same issue with the Randakk tool, seems it only works if the seals aren't too gunked up in the fork tube.
I also had the same gouges in the tube, and I found a salvage pair of fork tubes with no marks and used them.
I suppose it depends on how badly you want to avoid doing the job again if you have a leak there - my advice is see if you can get another pair of tubes in a better condition.
(But that's just me, I usually err on the side of caution - others may have had worse gouges and been fine, they may advise you...)

[Gowing]

Those scratches look like my cam end after I got a cam seal out for the fifth time.
I got the new seal to ride on clean metal. But of course mine were on the inside
not the outside.

[wheeliedog]

Would filling in the gouges with something like pratley steel not be a possibility?

Filled and finely sanded so as to just fill in the gouge and not affect the rest of the seal mating surface.

From the picture it looks like the long scratch runs almost all the way through the mating surface and will probably cause you a leak.

[rcmatt007]

myself, I would put in the new seals and go from there. That surface does not move, I would worry more about scratches or imperfections on the slider. If it does leak, while it is a pain to redo things, they come out really easy the second time.

[Lads]

I think I am going to use a small amount of flexible gasket seal and give it a go. Going to drop the front and rear by about an inch using the shoptalk idea for the rear and this one from Robin.
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 33&start=0

[rcmatt007]

personally, I wouldn't use a gasket seal, as it would make it REALLY hard to get it out next time