replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

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HandsomeSteve
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#31

Post by HandsomeSteve »

Well done, I like that it's all tucked away.
Current: 1977 Goldwing, 1982 CB450, 1964 Yamaha YJ1
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jake2012
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#32

Post by jake2012 »

Badorderbob,
Good numbers. I guess I'll see how mine works most riding is'nt in the upper rpm range and I don't plan on hot rodin the old wing that much. As I stated earlier worse case I buy another alt and smaller pulley and I'm still ahead. I think it will be fine. I got friends with Hot Rods that turn 6500 with stock crank and alternator pulleys with no problems anim-cheers1 .
Jake's past rides
1973 Suzuki TC 100
1976 Suzuki GT 550
1983 Honda ATC250R
1975 Elsinore 250
1977 custom hawg chopper
1952 Pan Shovel
2x 76 gl1000s
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#33

Post by SARR »

That is slick. Great mod.
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duke182
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#34

Post by duke182 »

i have been planning to do an alternator conversion and i think yu just showed me how im going todo it.
or at least something very similar.
thanks for the write up.
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bert96
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#35

Post by bert96 »

Do you have a part # on your alternator? it would be easier to have something when i will try to buy the right one!


Thanks


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Roady
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#36

Post by Roady »

Jake: this made it to the ShopTalk page.

An excellent 'alternate'-ive writeup. :-)
gmalt.jpg
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#37

Post by Fred Camper »

Good spot for it Road and Jake. Just not sure why it was not a bolt on part on the first GL, but that does drive an accessory drive that was not otherwise required. Jake and others fixed that.
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#38

Post by Mike-C »

Gents;
Now if that big Delco looks so happy in there imagine how slick a mini Denso would look. Having just done a stator job on my son's 1200 STD I wish I had thought if that BEFORE I started and we had upped the big bucks for genuine Honda parts. Jake had sent me a picture of his job but by then we had spent the money on the OE parts and already had the engine out. I will mock it up on my parts Wing to see what clearances we have on a 1200. Our STD is all back together and working well, but it will be a good thing to know just in case. I already have the mini Denso (grabbed it for free at the local scrap yard. The yard's owner said it did not work and was core value only, a disassembly and cleaning was all it needed). If I get a minute tomorrow I will see what my camera and I can discover.
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jake2012
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#39

Post by jake2012 »

Roady wrote:Jake: this made it to the ShopTalk page.

An excellent 'alternate'-ive writeup. :-)
gmalt.jpg
Thanks for the honor to live forever in cyber space. I'm glad it has inspired more inovation in this area. I hear the sound of a denso project coming soon from someone. anim-cheers1
Jake's past rides
1973 Suzuki TC 100
1976 Suzuki GT 550
1983 Honda ATC250R
1975 Elsinore 250
1977 custom hawg chopper
1952 Pan Shovel
2x 76 gl1000s
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#40

Post by CharlieP »

action1 This will help with being able to run better lighting for "road warrior" bikes ! !
I'm toying with the idea of building a "purpose built" endurance riding machine and as
we (some of us) all know I'm a "gadget" guy. Gadgets however need juice to run on and
our earlier bikes where a tad light on surplus electrical power.
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#41

Post by littlebeaver »

I've gotta say, a job well done sir..It took some good ole thinking to come up with that one..My hat goes off to you...Good job..
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ericheath
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#42

Post by ericheath »

jake2012 wrote:
ericheath wrote:How'd you pin the pulley? Any photos of that? Nice clean mod.
Hey crossy.gif I drilled a hole through the pulley right where the key is on the crank shaft . Made the pin so it engages the side of the key and the bolt washer holds it in. Make sure you measure good and square the side of the pin to mate with key;also make sure you install it on the side of the key ahead of rotation. I first tried it without this pin and it kept unbolted. Make sure you use a concrete nail for a pin also; it is very strong. anim-cheers1

PS the best way to find the spot to drill is to first mount the pulley with some tacky paint on the face of the flange; this will leave the impression of the open area of the crank pulley. You'll then have the spot to drill the hole just inside the impression mark. The pin is about 3/16" if you mess up you can just try another hole on the pulley; but not to many. Oh and make the pin long enough to touch the face of the carank shaft and flush with the outer face of pulley.
Only a few months later, and I am revisiting this. So you are using the portion of the key that extends above the outer diameter of the crank shaft to engage the pin?
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jake2012
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#43

Post by jake2012 »

Yes . This is enough to keep the bolt from unscrewwing due to the load of the alternator. Had Honda used a reverse thread bolt there would be no need for making a pin. anim-cheers1
Jake's past rides
1973 Suzuki TC 100
1976 Suzuki GT 550
1983 Honda ATC250R
1975 Elsinore 250
1977 custom hawg chopper
1952 Pan Shovel
2x 76 gl1000s
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wilf
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#44

Post by wilf »

Great job . was thinking of trying something similar on my 11oo but did not think there was enough room. I think I may give it try. Could you share a little info about the pulley you used. was it sleeved pulley, just curios what you used for a spacer.
wilf
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jake2012
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Re: replacing stator with $40 GM alternator

#45

Post by jake2012 »

wilf wrote:Great job . was thinking of trying something similar on my 11oo but did not think there was enough room. I think I may give it try. Could you share a little info about the pulley you used. was it sleeved pulley, just curios what you used for a spacer.
wilf
The pulley was bought at Tractor Supply and I sleaved it with a steel sleave from Lowes so the metric bolt fit snug. I used an aluminum spoked pulley so I could install the belt cover bolt. No spacer was needed however I did have to grind the fins down on belt covers and leave out the cover gaskets so the pulley would not scrape. I suppose you could shim it instead of grinding fins;but then the Radiator would have to kick out more. anim-cheers1

PS: the more you kick the radiator out the lower the front fender has to be if you install a front mouinted fan or the fender will hit the fan after hitting bumps. or you could run no fender. or come up with a small fan to mount inside the radiator. I like the 10" fan on front so I lowered the fender bracket hole to get the fender closer to the tire and it is fine. In fact the solid mount fender bracket now acts like a fork brace.
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Jake's past rides
1973 Suzuki TC 100
1976 Suzuki GT 550
1983 Honda ATC250R
1975 Elsinore 250
1977 custom hawg chopper
1952 Pan Shovel
2x 76 gl1000s
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