so there I was..

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pidjones
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Re: so there I was..

#16

Post by pidjones »

Wish our local NAPA had that capability. They don't even have the Spraymax clear.
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Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
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1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
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Ex 1979 GL1000
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#17

Post by 5speed »

flyin900 wrote:If you do decide to clear don't use 2000 grit it's too fine. Use 1000 and a light wet sanding to knock down the orange peel and then use the premade SprayMax 1K clear coat spray can from Napa. Then wet sand from 1000 up to 2000 grit and have your buddy buff it out and it will look amazing.
I do all my own painting now and just like you didn't have a good idea how to do it initially, with time and jobs done it gets easier. The new paints and the variety of custom made spray cans available can turn anyone into a decent hobby painter.

Talk to Napa on recoat times, as you may need to leave it for up to 7 days if a lacquer based finish before a recoat after 1 hour from the initial spray time.
thanks for the info. Here is where I'm "lost". Do you wet sand the base and clean it off and spray the clear? Or do you buff the base to remove the sanding scratches?
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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flyin900
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Re: so there I was..

#18

Post by flyin900 »

So I just wet sand the base coat with 1000 grit and clean it off well, a tack rag works great from CTC in the paint section. It will leave fine scratches in the base coat that will disappear when you shoot the clear coat over it as it fills in the fine scratches.
Leave the clear for a few days to offgas and then wet sand with 1000 then to 2000 grit and I have even used a 3000 grit which comes in a oval pad style cloth material from CTC too. Then have your buddy buff with a fine buffing compound and it will look amazing.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#19

Post by 5speed »

flyin900 wrote:So I just wet sand the base coat with 1000 grit and clean it off well, a tack rag works great from CTC in the paint section. It will leave fine scratches in the base coat that will disappear when you shoot the clear coat over it as it fills in the fine scratches.
Leave the clear for a few days to offgas and then wet sand with 1000 then to 2000 grit and I have even used a 3000 grit which comes in a oval pad style cloth material from CTC too. Then have your buddy buff with a fine buffing compound and it will look amazing.
thanks for the info.
I was curious as I sanded the paint with 1000 grit to prepare it for primer to fix the scratch I put in it trying to put it on the bike.. fly into a rage
and it scuffed it up pretty good.
I can't get my head around how clear coat will make it disappear. lol
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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flyin900
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Re: so there I was..

#20

Post by flyin900 »

The problem if you sand with really fine paper or buffed the paint finish first the finish would be too smooth for the clear to adhere to the finish properly and could start to peel in the future.
I have also used 800 grit and then clear coated without any problems yet I think the 1000 should give you a good base to work from when you clear coat. If you haven't gone through the paint finish with your scratch you should be able to feather sand the scratch out all around the area and just clear coat over as normal.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#21

Post by 5speed »

flyin900 wrote:The problem if you sand with really fine paper or buffed the paint finish first the finish would be too smooth for the clear to adhere to the finish properly and could start to peel in the future.
I have also used 800 grit and then clear coated without any problems yet I think the 1000 should give you a good base to work from when you clear coat. If you haven't gone through the paint finish with your scratch you should be able to feather sand the scratch out all around the area and just clear coat over as normal.
oh..it went through the paint. I don't half A anything. :cry:
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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BikeMaine
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Re: so there I was..

#22

Post by BikeMaine »

5speed wrote:
flyin900 wrote:The problem if you sand with really fine paper or buffed the paint finish first the finish would be too smooth for the clear to adhere to the finish properly and could start to peel in the future.
I have also used 800 grit and then clear coated without any problems yet I think the 1000 should give you a good base to work from when you clear coat. If you haven't gone through the paint finish with your scratch you should be able to feather sand the scratch out all around the area and just clear coat over as normal.
oh..it went through the paint. I don't half A anything. :cry:
Hahahaaa, that's funny right there! lolol
Kevin
1982 GL1100A
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flyin900
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Re: so there I was..

#23

Post by flyin900 »

Probably just as easy to repaint with a little more paint around the scratch area by doing a few extra passes while it is drying yet still wet.
If you don't have enough paint to redo the entire fender then hit the area of the scratch and build it a little more there with a couple of regular spray coats over the scratched area.Your spray passes beyond the scratched area need to blend or fade out and not be full spray coats like the scratched area. The spray pattern to the sides and above and below the scratch by 4 to 6 inches or so need to fade away in the density of the spray . You want to just spray lightly to blend the area into the rest of the fender. Since you just painted it there shouldn't be an issue if you don't get the fade out totally correct. You will have rough overspray at the edges of the fade out as you are not covering the outer areas with a full coat like the scratched area.
Don't worry about that since once you wet sand the entire area again you will remove the overspray roughness and end up with a smooth finish all across the fender.
Your ready for clearcoat at this stage after giving the paint a few days to cure and off gas.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#24

Post by 5speed »

flyin900 wrote:Probably just as easy to repaint with a little more paint around the scratch area by doing a few extra passes while it is drying yet still wet.
If you don't have enough paint to redo the entire fender then hit the area of the scratch and build it a little more there with a couple of regular spray coats over the scratched area.Your spray passes beyond the scratched area need to blend or fade out and not be full spray coats like the scratched area. The spray pattern to the sides and above and below the scratch by 4 to 6 inches or so need to fade away in the density of the spray . You want to just spray lightly to blend the area into the rest of the fender. Since you just painted it there shouldn't be an issue if you don't get the fade out totally correct. You will have rough overspray at the edges of the fade out as you are not covering the outer areas with a full coat like the scratched area.
Don't worry about that since once you wet sand the entire area again you will remove the overspray roughness and end up with a smooth finish all across the fender.
Your ready for clearcoat at this stage after giving the paint a few days to cure and off gas.
great advice..but it's back in primer. lol :oops:
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#25

Post by 5speed »

well..it's done..again.
I wet sanded the base coat and hit it with 5 coats of clear.
it is far from perfect but no runs, sags or really bad orange peel.
Not sure what all the dots are unless it's dust on my phone camera lens. it isn't on the fender.
Putting it back on tomorrow, changing the oil and the bosses bike is ready for the summer.

Image
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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BikeMaine
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Re: so there I was..

#26

Post by BikeMaine »

That looks great Brother!
Kevin
1982 GL1100A
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5speed
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Re: so there I was..

#27

Post by 5speed »

Tks. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

Before.

Image


After

Image
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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chewy999
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Re: so there I was..

#28

Post by chewy999 »

action1 action1 action1 action1
Previous Rides,
1980 CB250N Good to learn on
1981 CX500 good mid range tourer, went to Austria on it!
1983 GL1100C Pride and joy, sold when I bought my 1st house, big mistake
1985 GL650 Silverwing another mistake, horrible bike
1986 CBX550 Good commuter
1989 Suzuki GS750 (1976) cheap and cheerful until a dog ran out in front of me on Xmas Eve, 1991
Current bikes
2010 CB1300 back on a bike after 19 years, two divorces, children grown up etc
1980 GL1100 NOW ON THE ROAD, still use CB1300.
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mopehead440
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Re: so there I was..

#29

Post by mopehead440 »

I am impressed!! Great job....
1975 GL1000 Red
1975 GL1000 Blue/Green
1976 GL1000 LTD
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow
1997 Valkyrie Custom
1999 Valkyrie Interstate Trike
2001 Valkyrie IS
2012 GL1800
2014 Indian Vintage Chief
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2016 Indian Jack Daniels Limited Springfield
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