Valk Redo

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polkadot
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Valk Redo

Post #1 by polkadot » Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:34 pm

I have owned my 98 Valk standard for two years. It has been trouble free and ran GREAT! I laid her down in September. Most of the damage was to the right crash bar, handle bar, timing cover, timing sprocket, belt and throttle cables. I have replaced these items. I replaced both timing belts and set the timing. I also replaced the fuel petcock with a pingle valve and added an inline fuel filter. I got her started this morning. She runs very weak and is ticking like mad. My fist thought is to check the valve clearances. My question is, why would they have changed so drastically? Maybe my timing is off a tooth? Would that explain how it is running? Any thoughts? Not sure where to put this thread, so mods feel free to move away if necessary. ern

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1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie (sold): Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (sold): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90 (sold): Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898 (Sold): Team 898 - raised from the ashes
70ish Benelli Dynamo Scrambler (sold): Erector Set/Treasure Hunt aka Benelli Dynamo
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #2 by sunnbobb » Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:40 pm

If you timed it, then the belt is not likely off. I would for sure check the valve clearances. Also, given the pictures, I would be suspect of the cam possibly having been bent. If it were my wing, I would take the valve cover off, remove the cam and check it for true. This damage could also have damaged the cam bearing, so those should be examined. Ticking is not good, so I would not run it until there has been a complete inspection of that valve system.
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polkadot
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #3 by polkadot » Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:55 pm

sunnbobb wrote:If you timed it, then the belt is not likely off. I would for sure check the valve clearances. Also, given the pictures, I would be suspect of the cam possibly having been bent. If it were my wing, I would take the valve cover off, remove the cam and check it for true. This damage could also have damaged the cam bearing, so those should be examined. Ticking is not good, so I would not run it until there has been a complete inspection of that valve system.


Thanks Sonny. I have posted this on a Valk board, but this group is heads and shoulders above! I will keep you posted.
Hope for the best, expect the worst and take what comes!

1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie (sold): Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (sold): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90 (sold): Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898 (Sold): Team 898 - raised from the ashes
70ish Benelli Dynamo Scrambler (sold): Erector Set/Treasure Hunt aka Benelli Dynamo
1/6 of 1976 LTD #993 (Sold): LTD 993 . . . and so it begins

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Re: Valk Redo

Post #4 by sgwilly » Fri Nov 23, 2012 3:26 pm

I'd check to make sure your belts are definitely in the correct position. Timing doesn't come into play here UNLESS the cam sprockets are correctly aligned with the crankshaft (where timing is actually measured). You can have them off by a notch (or even 180 degrees off) and the timing can still be spot one. I had a belt jump a notch once and while it still ran ok it ticked loudly. Remember Sunnbobb, the later ignition systems don't run off the camshaft like the earlier points versions.

I'm going to go totally out on a limb here and predict one side is a notch off, the other 180 degrees.

Ok, off 180 is pretty kooky. It probably wouldn't even turn over then.
Steve
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #5 by polkadot » Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:34 pm

I checked the timing marks and they are on. Is it possible that when I put the right cam pulley on that I got it off by 180? I thought there was only one way to put it on. Would it run? Only ticking coming from that head.
Hope for the best, expect the worst and take what comes!

1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie (sold): Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (sold): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90 (sold): Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898 (Sold): Team 898 - raised from the ashes
70ish Benelli Dynamo Scrambler (sold): Erector Set/Treasure Hunt aka Benelli Dynamo
1/6 of 1976 LTD #993 (Sold): LTD 993 . . . and so it begins

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Re: Valk Redo

Post #6 by sgwilly » Fri Nov 23, 2012 10:02 pm

You should check compression on that side. Real low compression and you've got it off.

Now keep in mind these are interference engines which means the valves go where the piston goes - just not at the same time when it's correctly set. If they do, they touch and make tapping noises - they may bend or break things. That's bad as you can well imagine.

The correct way to make sure you have it on the right cycle (crank shaft goes around twice every time a cam shaft goes around once) is to make sure your valves are in the correct position when the marks line up on the cam shaft. That means taking off your valve cover and checking the rocker arms on a specific cylinder (probably the forward one) - you want to read a manual while doing this. I don't have a 1500 so I'm only going on the process on an 1100.

You may have already bent a valve. Mine (which is a 4 cylinder 1100) only jumped a notch. It tapped but did not really effect power too much. It also didn't bend anything too bad. I did a leak down test afterwards and it held as well as all the other cylinders.

Good luck!
Steve
'75 GL1000 (in the queue)
'83 GL1100 MonkeyWing (on IR)
'70 Suzuki T500 Titan (in the queue)
'99 Valkyrie Tourer
'08 Yamaha FJR1300
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #7 by sunnbobb » Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:48 am

Good point SG, I was thinking Gl1100. You are right about that belt possibly being off, I think I would have that valve cover off though and do a visual on things. I had a ticking in an 1100 a couple months ago, gave it a slight rev, and she made a big tick and froze. Still haven't opened that case up to see what happened..
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1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)

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Re: Valk Redo

Post #8 by robin1731 » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:04 am

Is the crash bar pushed back against the spark plug? If it is it could possibly be sending the spark to ground there. I know it's a shot in the dark but is possible. That would cause a "ticking" sounds and it would be weak too.

Not seeing it in person I can't tell how hard the bar may have hit the plug wire either. (if it did) If it hit hard enough it may have broken/cracked that spark plug.
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #9 by CYBORG » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:11 am

i'm not sure, but i think the valk has a hydrolic valve set up. no adjustment. but sitting a long time the lifters may have bled down.
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #10 by robin1731 » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:21 am

CYBORG wrote:i'm not sure, but i think the valk has a hydrolic valve set up. no adjustment. but sitting a long time the lifters may have bled down.



I thought about that too. I think the 1500 is hydraulic. Then they went to shims on the 1800. :roll:
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #11 by CYBORG » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:24 am

i don't have any experience with 1500's or 1800's, but advances in design would almost dictate hydrolic or shims in my mind
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #12 by robin1731 » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:51 am

Shims are nice but are a pain to change. Luckily the 1800 seems pretty stable. I've not had to do any adjustments on one.
1975 GL1000 parts bike (parts for sale)
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1976 KZ900 Dragbike
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and a rotation of various purchases
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #13 by Red2trike » Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:22 pm

I'd check those belts as for installed correctly. Making sure the crank is in "positions" as per marks on crank...1st. I'd also check those "igniters" as for position and tightness.

I'd check that plug wire/s that appears to have been in contact with "crash bar"...inside and outside. Might have crushed something in the boot and could be shorting it out or cracked the plug.

The Valks have adjustable valves (solid lifters), might be a great idea to really check out that valve train for adjustment and possible bent valves. These valves don't like being bounced off of pistons. :IDTS:

You might also need to do a little carb re-set (sync) since you replaced the throttle cables.

RT2

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Re: Valk Redo

Post #14 by robin1731 » Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:11 pm

Red2trike wrote:snip......
The Valks have adjustable valves (solid lifters), might be a great idea to really check out that valve train for adjustment and possible bent valves. These valves don't like being bounced off of pistons. :IDTS:


Well, the fische I just looked at shows rocker arms. So while they are adjustable there is no lifter. Just rocker arm on cam and valve. Exactly like the 1000 and 1100.
1975 GL1000 parts bike (parts for sale)
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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Re: Valk Redo

Post #15 by sunnbobb » Sun Nov 25, 2012 3:17 am

Might be useful to do the wooden dowel to the ear trick to try and find that ticking.
I found the end of the internet

---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!

1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)


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