1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

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Bubblehead
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1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#1

Post by Bubblehead »

Rebuilt the driveshaft U-Joint today. I purchased the U-Joint from the U-Joint Store http://www.theujointstore.com (1-800-511-6264). The cost of the U-Joint was $20. U-Joint size is 19MM X 44MM. Part Number TUS-2. Hardest part of the job is removing the old U-Joint. I used a Dremel tool to grind back the retaining stakes. Use a press or vice and a 12MM or 13MM socket to push on the U-Joint cap. The U-Joint will bind up in the yoke when the cap is just about flush when pushing it through. I would recommend pushing in both directions before to break them free of what remains of the stakes.
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When the cap is flush to the yoke drive the cap out from the inside. I used a combination of a punch and a couple of different size screwdrivers.
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When cap is out flip it over place a socket over the U-Joint shaft and push it out until the other cap is flush. Then repeat the procedure to drive out the cap. Total time to disassemble was about an hour.

To install new U-Joint I used Loctite 638 which was recommended by a local high end industrial machine shop to secure the caps in place. Very easy to use just make sure everything is clean and free of oil. Be sure to orient the U-Joint so that the grease zirc is facing the yoke on the shaft that way its accessible when fully assembled. Remove the two caps from the U-Joint you are going to install, wipe the grease from the U-Joint stems so you don't get grease on the parts you are assembling. Put a coat of Loctite 638 on both the caps and the yokes. Place the U-Joint in the yoke and push the caps in from the outside. Make sure to center to U-Joint in the caps as you press them in and don't disturb the needle bearings. I pushed both caps flush with the yokes and then used a socket to push them in until they were both centered. You can still see where the previous stakes were so it makes a quick visual reference for assembly. Check the depth of the caps and adjust the position until centered. Once I had them centered I waited a couple hours to do the other set just to make sure that I didn't disturb the loctite until it had a chance to set up. I am going to wait at least 24 Hours before install to allow for cure time.
Loctite 638.pdf
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CYBORG
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#2

Post by CYBORG »

good info.
let us know how it holds up after some riding
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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gltriker
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#3

Post by gltriker »

Good photos and write up. :-D tumb2
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#4

Post by Whiskerfish »

Very nice!!
Someone please remind me in a week or so and i will move this to the how too forum so it does not get lost.
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#5

Post by Shadowjack »

When I swapped an 1100 swingarm and driveshaft onto a 1000 chassis, I had to swap the joint, and ran into the problem you describe about punching the cups out because you can't press them far enough. On the 1000, you can press them out, but not the 1100, so, since I wasn't going to use the 1100 short yoke, I just sawed it. Punching is so much more elegant, though. 😁
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#6

Post by rcmatt007 »

sadly when the u-joint failed on my LTD I was going 60 MPH. Sort of like humpty dumpty, all the kings horses and all the kings men would not put that ujoint back together again
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#7

Post by Fred Camper »

Nice detailed explanation. Well done.
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#8

Post by Old Fogey »

Not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but be carefull which joint you buy. Most GU1944 joints are intended for the steering column of autos and can't take the torque of the engine for long. There are some used in the drive joints of ATVs and the backhoes of some diggers. Also the older BMW s used this size. These are quite expensive but at least you know they are intended for this use.
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

#9

Post by cfairweather »

Do you have a BMW part number for U-Joint that fits a GL1000?
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Re: 1976 GL1000 Driveshaft

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Post by Old Fogey »

I will have info somewhere, not necessarily the BMW number but the equivalent. But it's probably 10 years since I looked into this so the info may take some finding.
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