New to bikes need opinions

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zxWIZxz
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New to bikes need opinions

#1

Post by zxWIZxz »

So I just decided to ride. I did. Bought an 82 gold wing for my learner. Got my permit And a few days after found a combination I believe of oil and Coolant leaking from my weep hole. After a lot of research my opinion is that I needed to replace my water pump. Found an excellent tutorial on how to do so. Being that the leak was not very strong at all and we are so close to the off season and I only had 45 days for my permit I decided to watch the fluid levels and get my license before approaching it.
Bike runs great and everything was going well. Got my license :). Taking a last ride or 2 before winter. Came out the other morning and have a new leak from the radiator. Decided to do a few things. Got a used but good radiator, new oem water pump, hoses, gasket kit, oil change kit, and timing belts. I was all set to try these myself. Here is what I need for opinions.
The jobs do not look difficult but I am no mechanic. I have limited tools and knowledge. I would still give it a go but a mechanic recently told me it wasn't worth it. Said with a bike this old the chances of breaking or stripping a screw or bold without proper tools and knowledge are good. And it would cost alot more in the long run. Being that alot of mechanics won't even touch a bike this old I'm now very intimidated. Funds are limited and the last thing I need is for it to cost more than necessary.
What do you all think? And thanks
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Wiz
1982 honda goldwing gl1100
Southern/mid NH USA
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5speed
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#2

Post by 5speed »

You need to stop listening to that mechanic. All you need to do this job is basic hand tools.
Having the rad out makes the job much easier.
Also..when you do the water pump, replace the 3 aluminum crush washers on the bolts that hold the water pump in to the case or you will have oil leaking in to your coolant. Ask me how I know.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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gltriker
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#3

Post by gltriker »

5speed wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 10:05 pm You need to stop listening to that mechanic. All you need to do this job is basic hand tools.
Having the rad out makes the job much easier.
Also..when you do the water pump, replace the 3 aluminum crush washers on the bolts that hold the water pump in to the case or you will have oil leaking in to your coolant. Ask me how I know.
And JIS tip screwdrivers, too. tumb2 Although they look like Phillips head screws, they aren't.

JIS = Japanese Industry Standard

reading material-
https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anyth ... llips.html
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

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"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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Sagebrush
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#4

Post by Sagebrush »

You are lucky you have an 1100 instead of a 1000 for the water pump job. Bolt heads instead of JIS screw heads makes it a lot easier to remove the fasteners. One thing your mechanic is right about you have to be careful with removing steel bolts from aluminum, they corrode over time and it makes them easy to break the bolt. The method I use it to back the bolt out about a quarter turn or less then re-tighten, back it out a bit further then the last time and then re-tighten. Rock the bolt back and forth backing the bolt out a little more each time. Do not apply excessive force when first loosening the bolt if it refuses to move with a reasonable amount of force then go the PB blaster route and if that doesn't succeed then use heat. Most of the bolts that you need to remove to change the water pump should be OK. I've run into more problems when trying to remove the rear cover from the engine. Patience is KING when working on old bikes.

I use a 1/4" socket set and ratchet to work on those bolts. It helps to keep from inadvertently applying excessive force.

PS I always use anti seize when replacing bolts on these old bikes.
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Raleigh, NC

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Lucien Harpress
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#5

Post by Lucien Harpress »

Water pumps are one of those jobs I would consider generally mid-range in difficulty. Each individual step isn't that difficult, but there is a LOT of them. I did my GL1000 with the engine out (I cheated), but I remember the hardest part was fitting about 10 o-rings into various places and hoping they all stay while refitting the front cover.

Take your time, follow the instructions step by step, make sure you're completely done with each step before moving on to the next one, follow the advice here, and you should be fine.
1997 Valkyrie- Light Cutomization, but Too Busy Riding
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
1969 CT90- The Most Fun You Can Have on 90ccs.
1965 CA77 Dream- Needs a Full Teardown, but Complete

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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#6

Post by Fred Camper »

Timing belts are more of a technical risk than a tool risk. Do lots of reading on replacing them before loosening a bolt. Read it not once, but three times then you will not have to look back at the steps so often.
Proud member of the NGW Cartel (Rochester MI)
1977 GL1000 BADDOG (April 2012 BOTM)
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5speed
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#7

Post by 5speed »

Sagebrush wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 9:58 am You are lucky you have an 1100 instead of a 1000 for the water pump job. Bolt heads instead of JIS screw heads makes it a lot easier to remove the fasteners. One thing your mechanic is right about you have to be careful with removing steel bolts from aluminum, they corrode over time and it makes them easy to break the bolt. The method I use it to back the bolt out about a quarter turn or less then re-tighten, back it out a bit further then the last time and then re-tighten. Rock the bolt back and forth backing the bolt out a little more each time. Do not apply excessive force when first loosening the bolt if it refuses to move with a reasonable amount of force then go the PB blaster route and if that doesn't succeed then use heat. Most of the bolts that you need to remove to change the water pump should be OK. I've run into more problems when trying to remove the rear cover from the engine. Patience is KING when working on old bikes.

I use a 1/4" socket set and ratchet to work on those bolts. It helps to keep from inadvertently applying excessive force.

PS I always use anti seize when replacing bolts on these old bikes.
lol..I had my reply all typed out with a "how to" for JIS screws then I remembered..1100's have bolt heads. :oops:
I recently changed the oil pan on my sons jetta...I had nightmares of the bolts pulling the threads out of the holes in the aluminum block. I too used a 1/4 drive ratchet for the same reason.
Every bolt came out with zero issues.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
MikeNTexas
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#8

Post by MikeNTexas »

You can do it! And after your done you will be a mechanic.
1975 GL1000 Restored (sold)
1983 GL1100 Custom (sold)
1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
Another1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#9

Post by Don R »

Read up, go slow and take pictures as it comes apart. Set everything aside where it won't be disturbed. Put a general location in your bio. You never know when one of us might be close enough to lend a hand.
78 GL 1000, 70 CB750 sandcast, 70 CB836 hot rod, 1124cc 750 dragbike resto project.
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#10

Post by pjlogue »

If you are new to wrenching on an old bike, the best suggestion I can offer is be patient when encountering a stuck/frozen bolt. There are many tricks to getting frozen bolts and screws out and most involve caution and lots of patience. It is worth spending a few hours teasing a bolt out rather than brute forcing it and having it snap off. Heat (with a blowtorch), manual impact driver, small ball peen hammer for tapping screw/bolt heads, can of PB-blaster, good vice grip pliers. These are all handy to have. As mentioned above, use JIS screwdrivers and get yourself a geed set of hex head metric sockets. 12 point sockets have their uses but you don't want to use them on frozen bolts as they tent to round the head of bolts.

-P.
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#11

Post by Shadowjack »

As everyone here will tell you, do NOT moose on any screws or bolts. Japanese fasteners are made to be sacrificial in aluminum threads, and WILL twist right off.
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#12

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year to your signature so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

Unless you are very lucky you are not likely to find a shop that can work on your bike. The sad fact is that a many shops are not interested in having their mechanics spend the necessary time learning enough about older models to do a proper job so they simply do not service machines over 10 years old, let alone 4 decades old. The cost of having a mechanic learn how to properly service a model that they are not likely to see more than a couple of per year would be more than they would make having him do the work.

If you want to keep an antique motorcycle on the road you will either need very deep pockets or need to learn how to work on it yourself. Coming to this forum is a good first step. Most of us remember when we were new at this and are willing to help you learn. The next step is to download the Factory Service Manual for your model (hopefully someone will post a link) and study it. Haynes and Clymer manuals are good as secondary references but the FSM should always be your primary reference.

It is a good idea to get a torque wrench and learn how to use it. Torque wrenches are more accurate near the middle of the range so it is actually best if you eventually get 3 of them if you are going to be doing a lot of work, a 1/4" drive for all of the M6 bolts, a 3/8" drive for the M8 to M12 and a 1/2" drive for a couple of things that require a lot of torque like the bolt that holds the pulley onto the crankshaft. If you are in the US Harbor Freight often has a coupon to buy them for as little as $10 each.
And don't forget that the size of a bolt or screw is determined by the diameter of its shank, not the size of the head so don't even think about using the torque spec for 10mm bolts on a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head.

Your bike looks pretty nice but 4 decades is a long time and the Previous Owners may or may not have done all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to go through the Factory Shop Manual for and perform all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
zxWIZxz
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#13

Post by zxWIZxz »

Thanks alot guys. I will add location. I'm not sure how to get the exact model. Reg/a/I. I've been told and have found the parts I'm replacing are the same on all 3. I'm going to give it a shot. I'm very detail orientated and organized. I've read and watched multiple tutorials. Just fearful of breaking something. Not an everyday bolt turner so I'm not sure how much pressure is too much. But I suppose there's only one way to get that knowledge. I appreciate the encouragement. And I have read that a torque wrench is necessary for the crush washers as well as some other areas so I will pick those up. Slow and easy. I'll let yall know how it goes. :)
Wiz
1982 honda goldwing gl1100
Southern/mid NH USA
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#14

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The model number should be on the VIN plate on the steering head, as well as the model year and date of manufacture (they are usually made in the last quarter of the year before the model year).

If your paint and shelter (the thing between your knees that covers the air cleaner and electrical stuff) are original yours started as a "standard" model. The ones that came with fairings had the pinstripe pattern shortened so that it wasn't hidden by the fairing.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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NotSoLilCrippseys
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Re: New to bikes need opinions

#15

Post by NotSoLilCrippseys »

Great advice all around.

Take your time. Don't worry about not having a mechanic to do the work for you. You'll appreciate it more if you do the work.

Put $1000 in an envelope. You may need all of it over the next year to get your NGW fully road worthy. If there are no major issues with the motor, $1000 is probably at/near the top end of what it might cost in parts to replace what needs replacing. If the PO did reasonably regular service, you probably won't need to spend nearly that much. (If cosmetics align with the mechanicals, I'd guess you'll spend a lot less!)

Get a couple manuals. The Honda one can often be found on eBay and perhaps in the For Sale forum on NGW. Maybe it's $40 - and worth nearly every page. It really helps to have some instructions and pics.

Shop Talk is a great spot for tutorials: https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST

Be really skeptical about the brakes and tires - give 'em a good assessment.
  • Sidecar Bob noted the date code issue - here's a guide: https://www.chapmoto.com/blog/2013/01/1 ... ate-codes/. If they're older, it's probably a couple hours of work to pull both wheels for the first time. A shop can mount for you, and you save some $ by removing/installing the wheels.
  • If there's any issue with the brakes, spend some $ and time to rebuild calipers and master cylinders. Go with stainless lines pretty soon. It's really fun to go, but you need to be able to stop when you need to.
The water pump isn't that bad to take up (I did one on an 1100 last winter, my first real bike project), but there are lot of bolts to remove to get at it. If it's a small leak, do it over winter. Prioritize assessment of tires/brakes if you want a little of the riding season.

If kept on the side stand, these bikes CAN smoke a bit on start up, esp. out of the left pipe. With the flat 4 motor, oil seeps past the rings when the bike sits on an angle and gets burned on start. Don't panic if you see some smoke on occasion when you start up. The recommended remedy is to use the center stand. No biggie.

Sidecar Bob is right about the shelter being from a Standard - or "naked" - GoldWing. Though it's easy enough to swap those parts across the models, I'd guess that's what you have as the front and rear blinkers are stock - and the rear fender looks to be from a Standard.

That's all good news in terms of having a naked Wing. A Standard tank, headlight, ears, and blinkers can be expensive - and challenging - to acquire on the aftermarket. You've got a nice set up going already. The only key bit obviously missing is the original grab bar, another tough-to-find (or spendy) bit. You don't need it. Engine guards look a bit different from usual, but I'm no expert and it doesn't matter for the ride. Aside from the tears in the seat, it appears you've bought a bike that's been kept out of the elements and cared for - at least cosmetically. The exhaust is really clean looking, as is the paint and other chrome. It looks like a good 'un.

And welcome. You'll find a great group of folks ready to help you through just about any issue with your bike. Consider starting a build thread in the Restoration forum to share your progress.
Avatar is a summer '21 photo of the Blue Phoenix, our 1983 GL1100I rescue gone naked.

In the Stable and Ridable
1992 ST1100 - my longer haul tourer
1992 XJ600S - son's streetfighter
1987 VFR700 - son's latest, in blue/silver
1983 - GL1100I - naked Blue Phoenix (son's, really)
1982 GL1100I - naked bagger Cabernet
1979 GL1000 - Ginger Lynn, but not that Ginger Lynn (Wing and a Prayer)
1978 CB550K - son's cafe (carb issues still vex)

Active Project(s)
1979 GL1000 - Confirmed one owner, with original paperwork. Vetter fairing and bags, off the road in dry, heated storage for 35 years.

Sold
Not lookin' back to avoid regrets
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