Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

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tedfeast
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Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#1

Post by tedfeast »

Hello all!
I'm in the process of replacing cylinder head gaskets on my 81-82-81 gl1100.
Got the new gaskets on, heads torqued down..
But, and here's where my question comes in:
I didn't get to finish reassembly so had to stop there for now and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and crack the bolts loose again and retorque them again before I finish or go ahead and wait and do it after completing reassembly and a warm up..
I plan to do that no matter what but just wondered if I should go ahead and do another torque on them while they're cold and been sitting.
Gonna be another minute before i can get back out to the shop to finish so just thought I'd ask..
Hope this makes sense..
Thsnks for all the input!
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Track T 2411
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#2

Post by Track T 2411 »

Can't hurt anything. Just checking, did you lube the bolts and use the revised torque specs?
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flyin900
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#3

Post by flyin900 »

As Track noted did you lube the bolt threads and the bottom of the heads of the bolts before torquing? I have never retorqued the head bolts after the bike has been run and heat cycled. I do 3 separate pulls on the bolts and let the bolts sit for a number of hours before the next pull. Just my quirky way of doing it.

(ie) 30 ft pounds is the spec for torque. First pull 10 ft lbs. Second pull 20 ft lbs etc.
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tedfeast
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#4

Post by tedfeast »

I absolutely lubed the bolts.
And I did use the revised torque specs.
42-45 ft lbs
The bikes gonna be sitting for a little while with her bare heads before I can get back in there and finish it.
So I figured maybe I should crack them loose one time and retorque before getting it running.
I know its recommended to retorque once after a period of time once its been run as well.
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#5

Post by redglbx »

I always retorque head bolts after a heat cycle and have had a lot less problems.My .02
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#6

Post by Whiskerfish »

Have done probably 20 sets of head gaskets over the years and have never done a retorque. Never had a failure that I know of.
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#7

Post by CYBORG »

Whiskerfish wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 10:21 am Have done probably 20 sets of head gaskets over the years and have never done a retorque. Never had a failure that I know of.
Same here.
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#8

Post by Oldewing »

Yer suppost toos torker something.....dang it..
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#9

Post by CYBORG »

Oldewing wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 12:50 pm Yer suppost toos torker something.....dang it..
Remember when we changed the head gaskets on Winstons bike? And one of them was used. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: And the old head bolts. Good enough for a record the next day..... just saying
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#10

Post by Whiskerfish »

I have always reused the old bolts. It s not a high compression engine so never saw the need. I do chase the threads in the block and make sure they are clean and use the lube.
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#11

Post by CYBORG »

Whiskerfish wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 6:02 pm I have always reused the old bolts. It s not a high compression engine so never saw the need. I do chase the threads in the block and make sure they are clean and use the lube.
same thing I do action1 action1
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Re-torquing cylinder head bolts

#12

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Several years ago Honda ran out of original gaskets for the CX/GL650 engine and the best of the aftermarket replacement (made available by members of the online CX community) require copper gasket spray and if they are to seal running the engine to operating temperature, allowing it to cool and re-torquing the bolts as many times as it takes (usually at least 5 or 6 but sometimes more) until the bolts reach spec torque at the same place they were before loosening for them (the explanation given is that the new ones don't contain asbestos like the originals did).

When both of the aftermarket head gaskets in my engine failed last spring I asked about the re-torquing the new ones and nobody here answered but I found the following on Randakk's page on head gaskets:
"Section 5, page 19 of the official GL1000 workshop manual recommends the use of “liquid sealer” but does not get any more specific. Plus, that information is 40+ years old. My practice: I install OEM Honda head gaskets “dry.” They are impregnated with heat and pressure activated agents to ensure a proper seal for the oil and coolant passages. Adding any “gasket sealer” to the equation might compromise Honda’s engineering and invite disaster. Decide for yourself, but if you ever want to test this and waste $40.00, torque down a new Honda head gasket. Then come back the next day (without firing the engine) and remove the head. You will be amazed at how well bonded the head gasket is without the benefit of a heat cycle! Note: this “experiment” will destroy the new head gasket!"
and
"I recommend that all new head gaskets be put through a heat cycle and then re-torqued. I use 100% distilled water for this step. The heat cycle should be done with no pressure in the cooling system (radiator cap off). Let the engine cool completely and then re-torque. For this final re-torquing, I recommend that each head bolt be cracked slightly loose and then re-tightened to specification following the recommended torque sequence pattern."
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