Clear Tubes for checking float level

[cfairweather]

Yes, I always use an ultrasonic cleaner to help get them clean. These carbs were so plugged up that the floats would not move when I first started cleaning them. The float bowls were full of gas and eventually turned into a solid substance.

[Sugs]

What's your secret sauce for the ultrasonic bath, those carbs look really clean.

[cfairweather]

Here are some cleaning tips:

This is my favorite cleaner and I use about a cup or two in my 3 gallon tub. You can get this stuff for under $20.00 a gallon if you look around. I also use the generic Krud Kutter cleaner and it works almost as good.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... -degreaser

1. I turn the heat up to 75C which drastically improves the process.
2. I also use acetone to help remove severe gas deposits. Pour acetone into all passages. Soak the jets in acetone.
3. After the carbs are completely "clean", I dip the carbs in RustEx for 30 to 60 seconds and then rinse with clean water. You don't want to leave the carbs in this stuff for long because it will remove zinc from screws, etc. If you do it for 30 seconds to a minute, it will brighten everything, but be careful.
4. I use Tarn-X on the brass and jets to help clean them. I also use Mother's Metal Polish on some of the brass parts, slides and caps. The slides must work perfectly and this stuff helps a lot.
5. A fine wire wheel brush on a Dremel also helps to clean and shine things up.
6. I use WD40 on the carbs too. The dried out aluminum absorbs the WD40 and leaves a nice original sheen on the metal. I also spray the shafts and moving parts with WD40 to help clean them and makes the parts work like new. The lubricant will be completely dry in a day. After using WD40, use a high pressure hose with a rubber tip to blow off the WD40. The high pressure is also very helpful at making sure all passages are open and clean.

Link for RustEx: https://www.Rustoleum.com/product-catal ... converter/

[Sidecar Bob]

WD40 is actually a Water Displacer (40th formula they tried). Being basically a light oil with a solvent carrier, which is OK for loosening old hardened grease (but mineral spirits usually works better). It is one of the poorest lubricants on the market and when the solvent evaporates it leaves a sticky residue that just attracts dirt (this is why it should NEVER be used on electrical contacts or in locks). I don't know of anything people use WD40 for that there isn't something else that does it better.

I soak the jets in methyl hydrate for about 20 minutes to dissolve the varnish.

I believe that every shop should have the 4 basic solvents (there are others that are useful but these are the essential ones):

Water: Cleans off dirt and, when used with detergent, some oil & grease and a few things the other solvents listed her won't touch (like coffee stains).

Methanol: (AKA methyl hydrate) an inexpensive, general purpose alcohol. Used to remove sticker glue, dried fuel deposits (carb varnish), magic marker and a host of other things. Can also be used as gas line anti-freeze, but it costs a lot less in the paint dept.

Mineral spirits: (AKA white spirit, paint thinner, Varsol)(The only difference between the generic stuff and Varsol is the royalty that goes to Exxon for the brand name) Used to remove oil & grease that soap & water won't and to thin & clean brushes when using oil based paint. Good for black heel marks on floors too. With the exception of carb deposits, generally whatever methanol won't remove mineral spirits will & vise versa.

Lacquer thinner: Nasty stuff - if you leave your fingers in it too long it will dry the oil out of the skin and it will become dry & stiff. Removes any oil/grease residue left by mineral spirits so it is an ideal pre-painting final wipe. Removes fibreglass resin from your fingers and can be wiped onto the surface of old fibreglass to briefly soften it when preparing to add filler. Last chance solvent for whatever mineral spirits and methanol won't remove. Caution: will remove most paint so don't spill it on anything.

[gltriker]

Yes, I always use an ultrasonic cleaner to help get them clean. These carbs were so plugged up that the floats would not move when I first started cleaning them. The float bowls were full of gas and eventually turned into a solid substance.

This will be my last question, cfairweather, about ultrasonic cleaning efficiency in your checking float level Topic . Thank you!

20201023_100933.jpg (143.47 KiB) Viewed 794 times

Will ultrasonic cleaning remove soft carbon deposited in the carburetor throat and on the throttle plate ?
( This smudge deposited in my #1 cylinder's carburetor from running my '75 GL1000 with a significantly restricted H-D catalyst muffler. )

edit: I just noticed Krud Kutter removes carbon. I reckon a very small diameter bottle brush and Krud Kutter would work well for this job.
Done.

[cfairweather]

Most of it would come off without any scrubbing but I would probably spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throat and then use a long brush on it to loosen up the crud. It would be very easy to make it look new again. When I clean carbs in my ultrasonic cleaner I typically do it in three steps:
Step 1: I put the entire set into the tub and usually the water is already dirty. I remove the float bowls, but nothing else. The main purpose is to get the carbs hot and wet. This makes it easier to disassemble everything without damaging anything. If you are working on a set that has stuck floats from solid gasoline, you must get the floats to move freely before attempting to remove the pins. On a set like this, I soak each carb pair in a gallon can of Chem-Dip after the plenum is removed. Yes, a pair will fit into a gallon of Chem-Dip. Keep the pair connected with the chrome mount. You typically don't need to remove the chrome mount when cleaning GL1000 carbs. Put them back into the ultrasonic cleaner before attempting to disassemble the floats and jets. A few drops of acetone on the float pin hinge will help loosen up the float.

Step 2: I replace the water and add new cleaning solution and give the parts another 30 minute bath. I then remove the parts and do some manual cleaning with brushes, brake cleaner, aluminum wheel cleaner, Tarn-X, RustEx, etc.

Step 3: Final 30 minute bath in a clean solution. The carbs typically look almost new at this point.

[cfairweather]

Here s the completed set that I cleaned and rebuilt for my 1975 GL1000 project.

DSCN3835.JPG (195.25 KiB) Viewed 766 times

[redglbx]

I’ve been thinking of getting an ultrasonic cleaner, what do you guy’s use or recommend ?

Between carbs and Guns this would probably be a good investment.