caliper rebuild
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caliper rebuild
Can someone point me to a thread on front caliper rebuild on 78 1000 also where is this spooge hole located in the front master cylinder? Ive been searching on here and can't seem to find either, Thanks Fred
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Re: caliper rebuild
This is for an earlier model but it very similar and should help you out. https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 620#p19620
The spooge hole is in the casting below the bottom of the reservoir cup. The link above will show it in detail
The spooge hole is in the casting below the bottom of the reservoir cup. The link above will show it in detail
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Re: caliper rebuild
I posted a photo of the hole in this: https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... er#p758654
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Re: caliper rebuild
Thanks for pointing me to this thread I've seen it before on here but cound'nt find it again, booked marked now, gotta do some work to the front brakes they stick and hang some its been sitting in the PO oweners garage all winter, the calipers look fairly new but untill I get inside who knows. The fluid in the Mc is clear but don't know if its been rebuilt. Gonna start pulling it apart and have a good look at everything. Once I get the front brakes straignten out timing belt is next. Overall the bike looks in pretty good shape, not much surface rust, nice paint and not alot of rounded off bolts, starts right up and carbs don't leak at all
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Re: caliper rebuild
Also, check the condition of the hose.bagger13 wrote:Thanks for pointing me to this thread I've seen it before on here but cound'nt find it again, booked marked now, gotta do some work to the front brakes they stick and hang some its been sitting in the PO oweners garage all winter, the calipers look fairly new but untill I get inside who knows. The fluid in the Mc is clear but don't know if its been rebuilt. Gonna start pulling it apart and have a good look at everything. Once I get the front brakes straignten out timing belt is next. Overall the bike looks in pretty good shape, not much surface rust, nice paint and not alot of rounded off bolts, starts right up and carbs don't leak at all
Over time they collapse inside.
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Re: caliper rebuild
If you are having to take the m/c off to fix, go one step further and renew those hoses if they are still original. There's no way on earth I would be trusting my life to 40 year old rubber hoses. The rear brake has a large portion of the line in steel, which rusts, and the connectioning pieces are still in the same 40 year old rubber.
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Re: caliper rebuild
Actually the brake line hoses look fairly new as do the bleeders
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Re: caliper rebuild
Just an FYI, rubber brake lines have the manufactured date printed on them. I'm having this same ongoing discussion with my stepson.bagger13 wrote:Actually the brake line hoses look fairly new as do the bleeders
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Re: caliper rebuild
This is a discussion item. Looks and functionality are two different issues. It's like buying what appears to be a showroom kept bike and you get that "wow that's a bike I want" feeling, then you get it home and start the maintenance and voila, here come the skeletons from the closet.Track T 2411 wrote:Just an FYI, rubber brake lines have the manufactured date printed on them. I'm having this same ongoing discussion with my stepson.bagger13 wrote:Actually the brake line hoses look fairly new as do the bleeders
Brake lines degrade from the inside out mostly. A '78 bike is now 42 years old. You will be able to clean crud out of the calipers when you take these apart, but there will also be crud in the brake lines that you won't be able to remove no matter how many times you flush the line(s). The strength of the original lines degrades with time and pressure needed for brake application is lost in the brake line as the brake line expands. The best remedy for this are SS brake lines because the internal tube is teflon and expansion is negligible, second best are new OEM lines - but probably not available. Cheap insurance for a great ride and your safety.
Good luck.
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Re: caliper rebuild
Thanks for the info I'll look for a date code on the lines and see how much crud is in the calipers. Should I disconect the brake lines and remove the calipers to inspect them?
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Re: caliper rebuild
Don't see how you could do a PROPER inspection any other waybagger13 wrote:Thanks for the info I'll look for a date code on the lines and see how much crud is in the calipers. Should I disconect the brake lines and remove the calipers to inspect them?
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Re: caliper rebuild
Can't inspect caliper internals, have to take caliper apart and you will/should replace the dust and oil seals. Caliper rebuild is removal of the pistons, clean, flush with a cleaning solvent, and install pistons with new dust and oil seals. Brake lines, new or use old original - your decision, my preference is replace. Lots of places to minimize costs, brakes are not one of them - just saying. Good luck
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Re: caliper rebuild
Rubber brake lines should be replaced every 2-3 fluid changes (5-6 years). As the lines age they tend to expand more under pressure (you can feel this if you hole the line with one hand while squeezing the lever with the other) and any of the effort applied to the brake lever that is used up to expand the lines is not available for forcing the pads against the disc.
Stainless braided lines, however, are made of dimensionally stable teflon tube with braided wire to protect the teflon. They should last practically forever unless physically damaged and double the fluid change interval.
Stainless braided lines, however, are made of dimensionally stable teflon tube with braided wire to protect the teflon. They should last practically forever unless physically damaged and double the fluid change interval.
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Re: caliper rebuild
Pulling the calipers apart and new stainless braided lines it is, sounds like good advise!
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Re: caliper rebuild
I recently rebuilt my caliper and master cylinder surgically clean. New seals, New everything. Then when I went to bleed it I kept getting little tiny black flotsam in the fluid. It was the inside of the brake hose deteriorating and putting off tiny bits of rubber. I had to change the hose. The only reason I didn't do it in the first place was that rubber hoses weren't available and I didn't want braided hoses. Eventually I just gave in and installed braided hoses. Problem solved.
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