I swear I am reaching my tolerance point with this bike now!
So after it doing the following its.......................
STILL running rough as a box of spanners!! STILL not firing properly and stinks of gas!! STILL takes ages for idle to drop after revving!!
Now ALL plugs look sooty not just #2!
For ages pulling the cap off #2 did nothing. Now the idles drops but pulling the cap off #4 does nothing whereas yesterday pulling the cap on #4 made it pretty much stall!
Here's what I have done so far......
Change timing belt (not a tooth out from what I can see)
Carbs off and cleaned at least 5 times including a rebuild kit which itself has been tried on and off the carbs
Balanced carbs all within no more than 1/4 of a mark with #3
Timing checked
Compression checked and all cylinders around 170 psi with little between them
Valve clearances checked (three times)
Spark Units replaced with OKI's
Regulator Replaced
New Fuel Filter
Changed oil and filter
Changed plugs to DPR 8's and tried every Gap you care to mention
I've ran REDEX (UK version of Seafoam) through both the carbs and tank.
Some advice to avoid my next job being a burning rag in the tank would be grateful!
Why did you install resistor plugs? The correct NGK plug is D8EA. There are 5k resistors in the NGK caps. Hopefully you haven't also changed to resistor (noise suppressing) wires. Use only metal wires, not carbon core or spiral core.
Also, if you heavily dosed the fuel treatment, get it out and use only to manufacture recomended concentration.
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
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1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
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Sounds like you probably have more serious issues than this, but mine ran and idled better after my rebuild after performing the 'idle drop down' procedure detailed here: http://www.randakksblog.com/not-so-gree ... nt-method/
1975 Honda GL1000 - Naked
Motor from 1979 Model
1975 Cams and Carbs
Dyna S Ignition
If your plugs are sooty and it stinks of gas, you still have carb problems. PM on it's way
Standard non-resistor caps with resistor plugs are fine. Resistor caps with non-resistor plugs are fine. If you have resistors in both, you may run into some problems if the igniton system is not up to scratch.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..." If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff) I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
Are you seeing the pilot screws at the setting for 80-81 carbs, or 82? Your carbs (with press in jets) are 80-81's, and the pilot screw settings are quite different... The float setting is the same for all 1100's carbs.
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"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow
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In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson! New2U Bike? Read Me.
One thing you might check is float tang dimples. Not usually part of a carb tuneup but I've found this problem on my cb750. The dimples can cause the float to not close the needle valve sometimes causing a leak or very rich mixture. Here's a procedure I devised to fix this problem. The good part is you can effect this repair ad infinitum. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic ... msg1925867
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Terry
Don't own a Vanagon
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Track T 2411 wrote:Are you seeing the pilot screws at the setting for 80-81 carbs, or 82? Your carbs (with press in jets) are 80-81's, and the pilot screw settings are quite different... The float setting is the same for all 1100's carbs.
Bike registered as 1982 in UK but might have been an import so possibly 1981. I never really got to the bottom of this. But yes Push In idle jets nonetheless.
We've been through this: In the UK your paperwork will show only the year the vehicle was first registered, which could be several years after the year it was made for (especially in the early '80s when the recession almost killed off the motorcycle industry) but for service information you need to know the actual model year.
If you type your bike's VIN into this website it will tell you what the parts of the VIN mean, including the actual model year https://en.vindecoder.pl/
The VIN is stamped into the steering head of every motorcycle. It should also be on the bike's paperwork and it is highly recommended to make sure that the number on the frame matches the number on the papers before taking delivery of any vehicle.