No starter after coil install

[tlbranth]

I'm going to try and help you out here. I'm going by a '75 wiring diagram which I believe is the same as yours.
Power to the coils is via white/black wires - not black. Check that. One w/b has a double bullet connector with 2 w/b wires coming out of it that go to the coils.
With the right handlebar switch set to 'run' and the ignition switch turned on, read the voltage between the b/w connector and ground. Tell me what you get for a reading.
I believe you have something connected incorrectly to your kill switch. The connectors are brown/black to brown/black and the aforementioned white/black connected as described above.
Let me know what you find.

[cmyoch]

Sorry, Memorial Day weekend took over and I just now got back to the internet. I will run your test and report back.

[cmyoch]

At home now taking a look and I forgot that I blew a main fuse the other day when I was messing around. It was my own fault but now I need to hunt down a blade fuse around here somewhere so I can test.

[cmyoch]

I'm going to try and help you out here. I'm going by a '75 wiring diagram which I believe is the same as yours.
Power to the coils is via white/black wires - not black. Check that. One w/b has a double bullet connector with 2 w/b wires coming out of it that go to the coils.
With the right handlebar switch set to 'run' and the ignition switch turned on, read the voltage between the b/w connector and ground. Tell me what you get for a reading.
I believe you have something connected incorrectly to your kill switch. The connectors are brown/black to brown/black and the aforementioned white/black connected as described above.
Let me know what you find.

Replaced the fuse and tested. There is 11V from the powered switch in the “run” position to the first connector in the harness. I show zero power to the double female connector. There must be a break or disconnect in the white/back wire in between. I will pull the false tank and air box again to find the issue.

[gltriker]

Please. Take a few detailed snaps of your Dyna coils' installation(, as it presently exists,) after you get the area exposed again, cmyoch.

Confucius? say*...A picture is worth a thousand words.

Respectfully, we're getting close enough to a thousand words. Maybe two thousand.
Now, We need a photo or two to examine your work.

*not worth debating the source

[gltriker]

If you had utilized the linked topic found at the bottom of this page in Similar Topics to install your Dyna coils, although it shows the GL1000 factory schematic correct primary wires colors, there is a glaring wiring terminal identification error in post#5.
.
The double female terminal on the black/white wire, which the author identified as G, is NOT a ground connector.
That double female terminal wire comes from the Engine Stop Switch and powers the 2 individual black/white wires to both coils.

See here:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36013

[Shadowjack]

Honda's convention is black for general ignition-switched power, which feeds one side of the ballast resistor; black with brown stripe for power from the ballast to the kill switch; black with white stripe for power from the kill switch to the coils; and green for ground. If it's connected any other way, there's been some molestation and you need to figure out what.
The Dyna (or points) goes in the circuit on the other side of the coils to complete the circuit to ground: the blue and yellow wires. Even if the Dyna was disconnected, there would be 12v power at the black/white wire if it's all connected right otherwise, and the kill switch is on.

[cmyoch]

Okay, I dug in and scoped it out. Powered black/white wire to the double female connector with both black wires from each coil connected to it. Yellow to yellow and blue to blue from each coil to the harness. Black/brown and black from the resistor to the same connections in the harness.

I will buy a test light tomorrow and check continuity from the powered "run" wire through the double connector.

[gltriker]

It's encouraging to see your original wiring colors aren't dirty and faded.

Fully charge the bike's battery, too.
12 volts is a very weak state of charge. Very. Weak.

[cmyoch]

It's encouraging to see your original wiring colors aren't dirty and faded.

Fully charge the bike's battery, too.
12 volts is a very weak state of charge. Very. Weak.

The battery is about 4 months old but needs to be on a trickle charger.

[cmyoch]

Does the ballast resistor bracket need to be grounded? At the moment, I have it zip tied to the frame because I could not get it mounted to the new coils.

[gltriker]

No. Stop guessing. No ground connection is required on the positive side of the ignition primary circuit wiring.

Was this engine actually starting and running correctly before changing the ignition coils?

Were any wiring connectors in that bundle of 5 wires you are presenting in your fingers, disconnected and reconnected while you were working?

Did you replace the right handlebar switch?

I inquire because the new OEM Honda right side handlebar switch I installed on my trike 2 years ago, had two individual wire colors that didn't match up with the original 1975 OEM factory wire harness colors.

Utilizing the factory wiring schematic found in ShopTalk (thanks Sidecar Bob!) and a multi-meter, I sorted which which was which. Or, more fittingly, which switch was which.

No, I didn't guess.

[cmyoch]

Yes, everything was in working order before disassembly. That is what has me totally perplexed! I pulled the shelter off, pulled the air box, disconnected the primary and secondary coil wiring, replaced with new coils and hooked everything back up the way it disconnected.

I'm going to have to chase connections with a meter I guess. I hate electrical!!

[gltriker]

"I'm going to have to chase connections with a meter I guess."

No guessing!

Go back and read tlbranth's post #16.
It's a good bet at least 2 right side handlebar switch wires are mismatched. Another thought. ...

Although, we haven't asked the question, you haven't stated whether the headlight is operating correctly, when the key switch, itself, is turned on.

The right handlebar switch harness are all positive wires.

Before you go any further, for safety sake while you work, lift the rear tire completely off the floor, and be sure the transmission in neutral.

Done.

[cmyoch]

"I'm going to have to chase connections with a meter I guess."

No guessing!

True, no guessing. I was really hoping I was missing something obvious to avoid having to chase wiring.