brushes

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handyandy64
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brushes

#1

Post by handyandy64 »

Hey guys, the alternator stator shorted out. I am going to replace the stator, but I need a source for new brushes
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gltriker
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Re: brushes

#2

Post by gltriker »

What bike are you working on?
No brushes utilized in the 4 cylinder GL alternator system.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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robin1731
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Re: brushes

#3

Post by robin1731 »

Yup, always good to add what you are working on. Makes it much easier to help. ;)
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
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77Gowing
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Re: brushes

#4

Post by 77Gowing »

The wing alternator is a permanent magnet machine, thus no commutation is required, hence no brushes. The magnets go round and round and the rotating flux induces the voltage in the windings. Yaddah yaddah & stuff till you get to the rectumfryer, and regulation
Don't forget to check your voltage sense connection, else you may lose another alternator.
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
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robin1731
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Re: brushes

#5

Post by robin1731 »

77Gowing wrote:The wing alternator is a permanent magnet machine, thus no commutation is required, hence no brushes. The magnets go round and round and the rotating flux induces the voltage in the windings. Yaddah yaddah & stuff till you get to the rectumfryer, and regulation
Don't forget to check your voltage sense connection, else you may lose another alternator.
Early wings yes, but later one's do have a car like alternator. That is why it's always good to put the bike you are working in a thread when asking for advice.

.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
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77Gowing
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Re: brushes

#6

Post by 77Gowing »

robin1731 wrote: Early wings yes, but later one's do have a car like alternator. That is why it's always good to put the bike you are working in a thread when asking for advice.

.
Agreed. My bad.
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
handyandy64
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Re: brushes

#7

Post by handyandy64 »

I have a 1977 GL 1000. The reason I asked about brushes was that I read that it was recommended. I now know it my mistake. To Gowing 77 what do you mean by "voltage sense connection."
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77Gowing
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Re: brushes

#8

Post by 77Gowing »

ericheath wrote:Many of these bikes overcharge the battery because the input voltage is too low to the regulator through the black wire (referred to as the sense wire." Since it's low, the regulator assumes the battery needs more charge and cooks them to death. The reason is the sense wire does not get actual battery voltage but the voltage as it passes through several connections. Each connection loses a little voltage due to resistance. Since our bikes are 30-40 years old the resistance is usually higher due to corrosion. Some of mine read as low as volts.

A very simple way to remedy it is to install a relay to switch the power so the sense wire reads actual battery voltage. I have installed three so far. Most relays are Bosch five pins, but four pins are all you need. I cut the sense wire, the black one, just downstream of the connector from the regulator under the left shelter cover. Do it on the non regulator side of the connector so that if the regulator does fail, it's just plug-n-play to swap them.

Get your reading glasses on so you can see the terminal numbers.

I put 87 on the black wire to the regulator. 86 goes to the other side of what you just cut, the old black wire that went to the regulator. This is now the trigger. The 30 is the hot and I run it from the fused side of the solenoid , either wire but I think I use the red w/white stripe. 85 is ground.

When you key on, the old black wire triggers a magnet to connect 30 to 87. So now the regulator gets its signal "sense" from the battery through the 87 and not through any connections or switches. When not energized the magnetic switch returns to 87A . So 87 is hot when the key is off, so be sure it's taped or insulated.

30 is the full power supply. 85-86 can be smaller wires.

image.png
Forgive my crude cut and paste job. I'm using my phone. I hope this answers your question. I'm afraid I forgotten some of the details.
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
heraldhamster
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Re: brushes

#9

Post by heraldhamster »

77Gowing wrote:... the rectumfryer ...
BWAHAHAHA! I've never heard THAT one.
thanks, man!
sorta bulldogged custom 1978 GL1000 - "geekster"
full Vetter dress 1979 GL1000 - "Barge" (currently down)
1986 1200 Aspencade - "Heart of Gold" - daily rider
1990 1500 Aspencade - It's ALIVE! but very, very naked. not in a good way.
1978 for $100 - project in worx
1978 from a previous member here - taking up space
my original '79 bought in '91 - replacing engine (eventually, maybe someday)

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