Where to draw power
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Where to draw power
I am still working on my 77 barn find and I need a location to draw 12 volt power for the GL1100 electric fuel pump I am running. When I put one on my 79 I had the accessory terminal to use but the 77 has no such terminal. Of course I want this to be running when the key is on but I will likely include a small toggle switch in the left side shelter half to turn it off for things like setting the timing etc. when I don't want it to run.
Thanks. Dave
Thanks. Dave
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Re: Where to draw power
I would run it off of the battery direct, controlled by a relay. Many will also suggest a tip over switch in case of a tip over
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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Re: Where to draw power
Where did you find a GL1100 with an electric fuel pump ?
Gord
Gord
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‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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Re: Where to draw power
I might be wrong, the pumps might have been for a 1200. I have a relay for the pump but I need a keyed 12 volt source for the coil in the relay
Last edited by leggman on Tue Oct 09, 2018 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Where to draw power
I found a black and white wire I thought went to the coils but for some reason it only shows 6 volts??It is the coil hot wire but only showing 6 volts something has got to be wrong. ?
Back to the drawing board
Back to the drawing board
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Re: Where to draw power
Coils often start on 12v, but actually run on 6v, to prolong the life of the coils. A lot of other sources for 12v when the key is on
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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Re: Where to draw power
The ballast resistor is causing that. It's bypassed when you hit the start button, because battery voltage drops when the starter is turning, usually to about 9 volts is the battery is charged properly. Ballasts are in there to keep the points from burning up when the voltage comes back up after the starter stops. Nothing to do with the coils.
Find the black wire from the killswitch that FEEDS the ballast and tie your relay coil to that.
Find the black wire from the killswitch that FEEDS the ballast and tie your relay coil to that.
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Re: Where to draw power
Shadowjack wrote:The ballast resistor is causing that. It's bypassed when you hit the start button, because battery voltage drops when the starter is turning, usually to about 9 volts is the battery is charged properly. Ballasts are in there to keep the points from burning up when the voltage comes back up after the starter stops. Nothing to do with the coils.
Find the black wire from the killswitch that FEEDS the ballast and tie your relay coil to that.
I don't agree with your logic as to the reason for the ballast resistor, but I could be wrong. Would not be the first time. But I thought the capacitors had more to do with controlling the voltage at the points. Actually I don't think much about it anymore, as all of my bikes have electronic ignition. Still say the best place to draw power is from the battery via a relay
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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Re: Where to draw power
I think it's a bit ugly to hook things up directly to the battery. A cleaner way would be to run a wire from the hot side of the starter solenoid to a new fuse box, fuse that supply close to the solenoid. Run all your new stuff from the fuse box.
As for the coil/resistor thing, the standard coils are low resistance and cannot be run for any length of time on 12 volts. But for starting purposes they do indeed run on whatever the battery will deliver. Once the start button is released, the coils are fed through the ballast resistor which drops the voltage for running. The condensors are like buffers for the points. Surges which would cause sparking (and wear) on the points shunt to the condensor. This protects the points.
I don't think I made up most of this. But maybe.
As for the coil/resistor thing, the standard coils are low resistance and cannot be run for any length of time on 12 volts. But for starting purposes they do indeed run on whatever the battery will deliver. Once the start button is released, the coils are fed through the ballast resistor which drops the voltage for running. The condensors are like buffers for the points. Surges which would cause sparking (and wear) on the points shunt to the condensor. This protects the points.
I don't think I made up most of this. But maybe.
Terry
Don't own a Vanagon
Don't work at Boeing
Life is good
1999 GL1500 SE
2002 Honda VT750 "ACE"
1975 GL1000
1970 CB750
Don't own a Vanagon
Don't work at Boeing
Life is good
1999 GL1500 SE
2002 Honda VT750 "ACE"
1975 GL1000
1970 CB750
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Re: Where to draw power
That's the way I remember it as well. And when I said direct to the battery I meant not thru the harness. Your idea is greattlbranth wrote:I think it's a bit ugly to hook things up directly to the battery. A cleaner way would be to run a wire from the hot side of the starter solenoid to a new fuse box, fuse that supply close to the solenoid. Run all your new stuff from the fuse box.
As for the coil/resistor thing, the standard coils are low resistance and cannot be run for any length of time on 12 volts. But for starting purposes they do indeed run on whatever the battery will deliver. Once the start button is released, the coils are fed through the ballast resistor which drops the voltage for running. The condensors are like buffers for the points. Surges which would cause sparking (and wear) on the points shunt to the condensor. This protects the points.
I don't think I made up most of this. But maybe.
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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Re: Where to draw power
I will look at it tomorrow, I might just tap into the 12 volt wire that runs from the ignition switch to the starter button on the handlebars. I would like to eliminate the glass fuse panel and replace with a more modern fuse panel but its very crowded in the left shelter half. It is hard to find a aftermarket fuse panel that is small enough to fit.
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Re: Where to draw power
Search for 'Automotive fuse block' on the web. There's a million of them. Opt for one with a 12v bus going to each fuse and Bob's your uncle.
Terry
Don't own a Vanagon
Don't work at Boeing
Life is good
1999 GL1500 SE
2002 Honda VT750 "ACE"
1975 GL1000
1970 CB750
Don't own a Vanagon
Don't work at Boeing
Life is good
1999 GL1500 SE
2002 Honda VT750 "ACE"
1975 GL1000
1970 CB750
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Re: Where to draw power
Not my logic about whether the ballast protects the points or the coils. Every pre-electronic ignition 12-volt system (not 6V) has one, whether a separate resistor or a special resistance wire. This is the same. The theory is in plenty of old service manuals, or you can just Google it. If you want to see it in action, just bypass it and see what happens to your points...
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Re: Where to draw power
Any of the black wires are +12 switched to the ignition switch. Green is ground.
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'85 GL1200I
'81 GL1100 STD
'72 CB450
'85 GL1200I
'81 GL1100 STD
'72 CB450
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Re: Where to draw power
Does anyone know what the auxilliary power unit is or does
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