Very slow to return to idle

[Sidecar Bob]

BTW: I no longer buy bottles of carb cleaner (I still buy the spray cans for blowing through passages). Methyl hydrate will clean dried fuel varnish &c out of carbs just as well but a jug of it costs about the same as 2 little bottles of carb cleaner and I can use it for a lot of other things too.

And speaking of that, I'm a firm believer that every shop should have the 4 basic solvents

Water: Cleans off dirt and, when used with detergent, some oil & grease and a few things the other solvents listed her won't touch (like coffee stains).

Methanol: (AKA methyl hydrate) an inexpensive, general purpose alcohol. Used to remove sticker glue, dried fuel deposits (carb varnish), magic marker and a host of other things. Can also be used as gas line anti-freeze, but it costs a lot less in the paint dept where it is sold for thinning shellac.

Mineral spirits: (AKA white spirit, paint thinner, Varsol)(note that Varsol costs more because of the brand name) Used to remove oil & grease that soap & water won't and to thin oil based paint & clean brushes used for it. Good for black heel marks on floors too. With the exception of some water soluble things, generally whatever methanol won't remove mineral spirits will & vise versa.

Lacquer thinner: Nasty stuff - if you leave your fingers in it too long it will dry the oil out of the skin and it will become dry & stiff. Removes any oil/grease residue left by mineral spirits or methanol so it is an ideal pre-painting final wipe. Removes fibreglass resin from your fingers and can be wiped onto the surface of old fibreglass to briefly soften it when preparing to add filler. Last chance solvent for whatever mineral spirits and methanol won't remove. Caution: will remove most paint so don't spill it on anything.

[BurnsYoFace34]

I'll get some pics sent in here soon

[ericheath]

A little potable ethanol in the shop is good also.

[Sidecar Bob]

Not in the shop. It is too easy to get hurt even when you have your full unclouded faculties, let alone after use of "potable ethanol".
Best to save that for after the job is done.

[BurnsYoFace34]

20220510_211745.jpg (336.93 KiB) Viewed 264 times

[BurnsYoFace34]

Took them apart a couple hrs ago got all the jets an needles out an soaking in carb cleaner. I wasnt able to get 2 of the pucks out though kinda pissed me off an the jet above the pucks couldnt get those out aswell but I sprayed carb cleaner in them an all 4 blew carb cleaner out

[cfairweather]

Burns- Thank you for the picture and I am glad you turned one float upside down because I see a problem. Notice the dimple on the place where the needle contacts the float arm? This is a big dimple and I think you need to order new floats. You can get a set of 4 for about $36.00 - $40.00 on eBay. The dimple may not look serious, but it will cause your floats to stick and this could be part of the reason they were overflowing. You can usually polish out minor dimples but this one looks pretty deep and in this case it is better to replace the floats.

[cfairweather]

Also, be sure to run a carb wire through the three holes under the round pucks. I notice that some of these didn't come out.
Try using compressed air using a rubber tip nozzle in the screw jet hole. Also run a wire through the tiny brass tube that sticks up near the butterfly. You will be able to see the wire through the hole at the tip if it is not clogged. Be sure to spray carb cleaner through all holes and make sure they are all open. Use compressed air to help get them open. Take your time cleaning everything as these carbs have to be very clean to work right. Polish the slides. Check for cracks in the plastic buttons. Watch some videos on how to rebuild these and read as much as you can before putting them back together. I use 4 clear tubes to verify the float levels when done. This procedure will also test the float valves to make sure they don't leak. There is a thread that may help:
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 40#p787840

[BurnsYoFace34]

So does anyone make a carb rebuild kit with all the jets an floats. I see kits for 78 an 79 but not 77

[Whiskerfish]

Really do not want to use aftermarket jets. Best is to clean and reuse the OEM if at all possible. Floats I don't know of any source. Honda used to sell them but I have not seen any new in a while. If you do find new OEM they will be very expensive. Honda does still sell the float valves at like $25 each. Again you want to stay away from aftermarket on these.

[Sidecar Bob]

Do I remember reading about someone filling dimples in float tangs with solder?
Anyway, Randakk's has replacements but I don't know how good they are.

I think I mentioned that Randakk didn't include things like that in his kits because most of the aftermarket ones are substandard so it is best to get them from a Honda dealer. Any kit you find that has jets &c won't have the plenum seal, carb to plenum seals, petcock kit and other parts that you really do need but can't get anywhere else;

BTW, Randakk described a way to remove the pucks that won't come out any other way that destroys them in the process (involves a screw IIRC) and includes new ones in the kit because of that.

Read these pages
https://www.randakksblog.com/more-probl ... at-valves/
https://www.randakksblog.com/problem-wi ... t-needles/
https://www.randakksblog.com/special-tu ... p-service/
https://www.randakksblog.com/top-honda- ... -mistakes/

[cfairweather]

Floats: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323973286230?f ... SwJD5dxQ0L

I am going to give you a few tips and we will see how many people attack me If you buy 4 cheap GL1000 carb sets, some of the parts are useful, but as a rule, don't use the float valves, the needle jet screws or the slow fuel jet (third party slow jets can get stuck in the tower because some are too fat). Use the original parts and be careful not to damage them. You have to file down a screwdriver so it fits the slot exactly or you will damage the jets. I have used third party fuel and air jets successfully, but you have to verify the hole size with a jet gauge. The hole size is the most important part on the jets and even the originals are sometimes not exact. You can use the gauge itself to make them all closer to the same and exact size they need to be.

The only jets you want to use from the kits are the #60 air jets, which we will use for the off-idle modification (for 1975-77 models). Please read Randakk's article. Drill out the four #60 air jets per Randakk's advice and use these in the pilot jet locations which is the brass elbows. You will use a #59 or #62 bit depending on the number on the carbs. The original float valves will be fine unless you damage them when removing them, but you need to polish the seat hole with a q-tip and brass polish. Some people don't like polishing the seat but I have found this to be a great method of making the needle work smoothly and seal perfectly. I put a q-tip in a slow speed drill with some Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish on the end and hold the float valve seat in my other hand to polish the seat. It will be shiny in seconds. The viton seals and rings in the Randakk kits are the best but if you can't afford these, you can get a good job using the seals and rings from other places. Randakk sells the best plenum seals separately, if you want to buy these and use the standard rings from the kit. Be sure to use o-rings that make the fuel jets fit very snuggly. Sometimes the tower holes are slightly different sizes due to aluminum corrosion, wear, etc so the standard ring size does not fit too good. I buy several different sizes of these small rings so I can fit each one correctly. Good luck with your project. If you need 4 clear tubes, I will send you these.

Saber-Cycle sells the plenum seals and new petcocks much cheaper. I have used both and they work fine but the Randakk kit is better. You can get a good job either way if you take your time and do a good job.

[Old Fogey]

I have used those floats many times and had no problems.

[BurnsYoFace34]

So in theory I could get the 78 to 79 kit just keep an clean my jets

[gltriker]

Polish the slides. Check for cracks in the plastic buttons. :

closely study the last 2 photos in Post#2 . there is small passage drilled from the vacuum piston (aka slide) chamber that exits to the underside of the plastic button. If it's obstructed with trash, the vacuum piston (aka slide) will be very sluggish to move . The probing wire utilized in those 2 photos looks like a paper clip.

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