Single solex conversion and oil leaks

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leggman
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#16

Post by leggman »

ericheath wrote:Compression test with WOT? If not you’re probably fine.
The throttle was closed when I did the compression check. I might try it again tomorrow
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#17

Post by ericheath »

95 is about what mine are if I forget to open the throttle.
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leggman
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#18

Post by leggman »

I cleaned the solex again and adjusted the butterfly valve and it did somewhat better but I am still not convinced that the solex is the right way to go. A lot will determine on how it acts when I put the stock carbs back on.
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#19

Post by gltriker »

If you don't mind a little experimentation, readjust your engine's cold, intake and exhaust valves' clearance gap at 0.006inch.

My '75 has stock '76 carburetors, and that valve clearance gap increase of only 0.002 inch was recommended by an extremely knowledgeable technician (Mike Nixon) and that, alone, made some remarkable changes in the overall mannerisms of my trike's GL1000 engine.

a tiny example of Mike Nixon's wisdom:
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=63468
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RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
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leggman
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#20

Post by leggman »

I don't know what I am going to do now. I just looked at the numbers on the "stock" carbs that came with the 79 and the left carbs have the 769A number and the right carbs have the 771A numbers.
This really sucks as It stand right now I have a 79 GL and a 75GL and no good carbs for either one of them.
When I bought the 75 last year the carbs (two sets) were all tore apart and in a box. Upon inspection the float pin towers are all busted and a lot of parts are missing.
I hope tomorrow is a better day
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#21

Post by desertrefugee »

A lot of folks have had great success with the Solex. Keep after it. There are other resources to draw from if you really get stuck.

Also, your modified pump housing looks a lot like mine! (Cyborg's idea). The 1200 pump on mine has worked flawlessly.
IMG_5364.JPG
IMG_5364.JPG (80.47 KiB) Viewed 302 times
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#22

Post by Sugs »

desertrefugee wrote:A lot of folks have had great success with the Solex. Keep after it. There are other resources to draw from if you really get stuck.
Pop over to classicgoldwings.com. They have a ton of info on single carb conversions.
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desertrefugee
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#23

Post by desertrefugee »

That's exactly what I was thinking, but didn't know if an explicit reference was appropriate.
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#24

Post by Whiskerfish »

We are not petty that way. If someone else has info that will help I do not mind it being shared.
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#25

Post by Sugs »

Normally, I wouldn't recommend any other site at all for anything but reference. But there is just too much good single carb information over there to not suggest it. Those guys are fanatical.
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leggman
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#26

Post by leggman »

I put some permatex grey rtv around where the metal pipes on my manifold go into the rubber for the elbos and it helped somewhat. I think my biggest problem is the adjustments on the carb and my timing. I need to try a new set of points and I think that will be a big help.
The bike starts right up when the choke is on but when it warms up and it tries to idle it just dies?
How important is a air filter on a solex. Right now it has none and I wonder if that might be a part of my problem?
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#27

Post by leggman »

Had it running today after putting in a new fan switch and now at least that works. The bike really runs like crap. I completely went through the solex with a new rebuild kit but for some reason it just wont go anywhere near idle. Anything below 2500 rpm and it just dies. I am really beginning to wonder if it might be my ignition system. I think I will get a new set of points and try that and if that doesn't do it I might put a dyna kit in.
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#28

Post by leggman »

I plumbed the electric fuel pump today and was very pleased when it took fuel and got a LOT quieter. You could just about hear it next door when it was dry.
About all I have left is mounting the exhaust and getting the solex problems sorted out. It starts up and runs great while the choke is on but once the idle cam relaxes it just wants to die.
I will know a lot more when I get my dyna kit installed next week and get the ignition demons put to rest.
Any advice on the jetting for the 34 pict3 would be greatly appreciated. The bike is a 79 GL1000.
Thanks Dave
leggman
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#29

Post by leggman »

I got a lot closer to idle with the solex. I installed the dyna ignition I ordered and that helped a lot. Then I checked the intake manifolds and found the right side was loose. After tightening it did better but still not there yet.
How should the butterfly valve be adjusted? When I get close to idle it just wants to die. 34 pict 3.
Thanks. Dave
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Re: Single solex conversion and oil leaks

#30

Post by Sidecar Bob »

1) Your modified fuel pump mount looks good. When I experimented with a vacuum operated pump I made a bracket out of aluminum angle to mount the vacuum pump where the mechanical one was and block off the opening.
BTW: The vacuum pump was not capable of drawing fuel very high so I ran out of fuel with almost half a tank left so I went back to the mechanical pump.

2) The original fuel pump can be rebuilt. Peteybug provided the method
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12530
and I found a diaphragm that is easily modified to fit and only costs $6 US
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12530&start=60#p269684
This is a permanent repair - 8 years later I am moving the rebuilt pump to the "new" engine I am preparing to install in my bike.

3) The piston rings have to have gaps when cold so that they have room to expand so some of the pressure from the cylinder will leak past them and there will always be some pressure in the crankcase. If the breather system becomes blocked the pressure will escape through the weakest oil seal, usually the one where the tach cable attaches.
I found this out the hard way many years ago when my '77/Dnepr winter sidecar outfit's breather iced up, the pressure escaped and the oil it pushed out sprayed all over my right leg & boot. I consulted a friendly Honda mechanic and he told me to cut a couple of inches off of the end of the hose (the '77 did not have the catch can that yours has) so it didn't drag in deep snow and it never happened again.
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