Caltric Water Pump

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OldRider2
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Caltric Water Pump

#1

Post by OldRider2 »

My 77 GL1000 is finally back running and the slight coolant leak I thought my water pump had is what I would call full blown now, coming out the weep hole. The bike has been sitting for a number of years and now that it is back on the road the pump drips pretty good while the engine is running. I was hoping it might seal itself but that hasn't happened. There is no coolant I can see inside the engine, just the dripping from the weep hole.

Has anybody bought these pumps from Caltric on eBay?

"WATER PUMP Fits HONDA GL1000 GOLDWING 1000 1977 1978 1979"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-Fit ... 0290.m3507
2001 GL1800 Illusion Red
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#2

Post by sunnbobb »

Just put one ina buddies bike. No issues
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OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#3

Post by OldRider2 »

Thanks Sunnbobb. I think I'll try one then.

A wiring harness and a rear wheel from you a few years back helped get the bike back on the road!
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5speed
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#4

Post by 5speed »

I don't see new crush washers included with that..or all the other o-rings you should replace while you are there..along with the trans cover gasket.
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OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#5

Post by OldRider2 »

I guess I better read up on replacing the pump, I thought that the caltric pump and orings were all I would need and I could just pull the pump out through the pump cover. Just a quick read shows that's not the case. This is really a bummer, I've just completely put the bike back together after 9 nears of building it up, insured it, and put it on the road and now I need to tear the front of it all apart again!

I looked and getting the phillips head screws out of the transmission case cover looks like that will be a real pain. There are hex head bolts in the water pump cover. How easy are phillips screws to get out? How long to do the job?

A quick look at a Honda parts fiche looks like I also need, the 3 crush washers, 2 smaller orings, the transmission cover gasket, and the water pump cover gasket or is there a kit you can buy? O yeah I need to replace the phillips screws as well with hex bolts. I am not looking forward to this. I don't have the time right now or the inclination to jump into this. :IDTS:
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#6

Post by raiddrten »

I did the 'Phillips" screw removal --they are not really Phillips, but JIS Japanese pattern screws. These screws are really long in some cases, and penetrating oil takes about a week or more of daily applications to help them come out.

I had a long impact driver bit, but I prefer not to use a hand impact driver, but rather an electric impact gun. The gun can be held tighter to the screwhead so it does not cam out. My impact gun is weak by today's standards, but it will not break a 6mm screw off if i do my part. I use Deep Creep penetrant and some of the screws will come out in a day or two, but the really long ones take much longer for the oil to wind its way into the threads. I also hit the end of the screw with a soft #2 bolt each day to shock the thing and keep the oil moving into the threads. Don't keep hammering just because you have an impact gun. I go one second burst, apply oil and shock.Try once more and that is it until tomorrow

Honda put the frame members in the way of getting a completely straight shot at the screw head,adding to the adventure. My 1976 also has screw heads on the oil screen. I had to pull the engine to get to those--of course that happened after wrestling the transmission cover screws loose with the engine still on the bike.

Sorry about the long winded post, but this method works well even on bikes that are very neglected with gnarly screw heads if given time and patience
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#7

Post by 5speed »

Here is a list of the part numbers you will need.
I included the thermostat and o ring as it is an easy swap and inexpensive.
The oil filter housing o ring and bolt o ring typically come with the oil filter but I included them anyway.

19300-611-005 Thermostat
91307-MB0-003 O-ring thermostat housing
11391-371-306 Transmission cover gasket
91333-KE5-003 x 2. O-rings for collets
91361-706-000 O-ring for locating dowel, coolant by pass
91312-371-013 x 2 O rings for coolant passages
91207-580-003 Oil seal for water pump drive
91345-580-000 O ring, water pump to oil pump housing
90441-028-010 x 3 Crush washers for water pump mounting bolts
11396-371-306 Gasket water pump
91305-KT7-003 Small water pump O-ring
91356-706-000 Large water pump O-ring
19200-MG9-681 Water pump
91305-426-003 O-ring water pump cap
94109-14000 Coolant drain plug washer
91316-425-003 O-ring for oil filter housing
91302-377-000 O-ring for oil filter housing bolt
94109-14000 Oil drain plug washer
Last edited by 5speed on Fri May 25, 2018 12:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#8

Post by OldRider2 »

Thanks 5speed. I already replaced the thermostat and o-ring when I did the timing belts when the motor was out. I know, it would have been the time to do the pump but I don't remember it leaking when I got the bike. That gives me a good list.

Raiddrten. Putting the Deep Creep on the head of the screws will work its way all the way into the screw threads? I never would have thought it would work its way in that far, especially on long screws. I thought about using a small impact gun, I've got a Ryobi small one, but I was wondering if it would twist the heads off the screws.
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#9

Post by robin1731 »

OldRider2 wrote:Thanks 5speed. I already replaced the thermostat and o-ring when I did the timing belts when the motor was out. I know, it would have been the time to do the pump but I don't remember it leaking when I got the bike. That gives me a good list.

Raiddrten. Putting the Deep Creep on the head of the screws will work its way all the way into the screw threads? I never would have thought it would work its way in that far, especially on long screws. I thought about using a small impact gun, I've got a Ryobi small one, but I was wondering if it would twist the heads off the screws.

I always use a hand impact to remove the screws on the trans cover. That way you get the hit to jot the screw and it pushes the bit in to the head of the screw at the same time. Use an extension to get to a couple of them and you will get a "fairly" straight shot at them. Using the above method works very well for me. I've never had to use any penetrant to remove any of the screws. Broke I think one screw in all the covers I removed. Once the cover is off that screw turned out by hand.

Once you get those out you could replace them with these. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63837

.
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OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#10

Post by OldRider2 »

Thanks Robin for that link. I remember reading that somebody was selling bolts for the water pump replacments and I looked at my pump cover and saw I already had the hex heads on them. I didn't realize the transmission cover had to come off as well and these were replacements for the Phillips.
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OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#11

Post by OldRider2 »

I Googled up Water Pump kits (o-rings, gaskets, etc) and found one from K & L. I have an older K & L book and found the PN and it looks like this kit on ebay should have everything needed for the GL1000. The crush washers look a little sick in the picture though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-L-Supply-15- ... 0#viTabs_0
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#12

Post by Track T 2411 »

The k&l kit does have all the o-rings and gaskets you'll need. Lots of people have used it with success. As far as how long it will take, it depends on how easy it comes apart. If you're a 'wham- bam' kinda guy, half a day. Slow and methodical, with maybe some liquid refreshment (of your choice), one day. I'm always combining a coolant flush, an engine flush, etc., so it takes me longer.
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#13

Post by Wangthang »

I just did a water pump. I used the K and L kit but a Honda transmission cover gasket.it looks a lot different than the aftermarket gasket. The have some coolant specific form a gasket that helped me.
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#14

Post by OldRider2 »

After draining the oil and coolant yesterday, I started taking parts off today. It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be and I think in about an hour and a half I had it apart. I picked up some #3 JIS bits made by Motion Pro only to realize they were to small a shank for my Impact tool. At that point I just used my 1/4" drive set to hold the tip, used an extension for a little stand off room and tapped the bit into the screw heads to get them seated good. I used a 3/8" ratchet to then back them out and every one of them came out fairly easy. Probably hitting the bit into the screw head helped a little to loosen them.
There were about 4-5 of the 9 screw-bolts that almost looked new compared to the heads on the screws. I then probably spent an hour and a half to two hours cleaning the oring grooves and the gasket surfaces.

I'll have to finish the job tomorrow or sometime this week. One question I have is how tight the pump seemed to be going into the transmission cover. I greased up the orings and the holes where the pump slides into but it still seemed awful tight. I realize the oring on the pump tightens up the hole but are they supposed to be that tight going into the casing? I used some longer bolts to draw the pump in and just slowly turned each bolt about a quarter of a turn to pull it in. I then took the longer bolts out and put the crush washer and regular bolts in the pump and torqued it.
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OldRider2
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Re: Caltric Water Pump

#15

Post by OldRider2 »

So I finished up replacing the water pump. I didn't think it was that bad once I got to it but I think the worst part seemed to be trying to get the radiator back in, lined up, and top hose connected.

I cranked it up and it ran great for about 15-20 minutes, no runs, no drips, at all. :-D Then it started to drip some fairly thick drops of almost grease that I suspect must be some of the vaseline I used on the orings and Moly on the one around the pump seal. After another 5 minutes or so it then started to drip some fresh oil. I ran it another 10 to 15 minutes monitoring the oil through the sight glass and the coolant. I finally shut it down a bit discouraged. I've read some of the posts talking about running it for a while to and it may seal up but I'm thinking I it may need to come apart again. :cry:

Here is a picture of the thick stuff that came out after running it for 15-20 minutes.
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2001 GL1800 Illusion Red
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