Brake pads

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tlbranth
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Brake pads

#1

Post by tlbranth »

Hydraulics work great but I can dang near stop the thing better with me feet. Pads are plenty thick and I've cleaned them a time or two with BrakeClean. My CB750 brakes beat the '75GL hollow on braking with a drum rear and single disc front. So any recommendations for good pads? Not 'designer' pads though.
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BlueThunder
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Re: Brake pads

#2

Post by BlueThunder »

Use EBC semi-sintered (aka semi-metallic) V series pads. They stop quite a bit better than organic or ceramic pads. These pads are safe to use on stock discs and won't gall them.

You can improve the brakes further by using stainless steel braided brake lines and going to a 5/8" master cylinder. Bike will stop on a dime! Do the back this way as well and you won't be disappointed.
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tlbranth
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Re: Brake pads

#3

Post by tlbranth »

Front has new stainless lines and a new 5/8" master. Feel improved but braking didn't. Lines on back are new OEM
Terry
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BlueThunder
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Re: Brake pads

#4

Post by BlueThunder »

tlbranth wrote:Front has new stainless lines and a new 5/8" master. Feel improved but braking didn't. Lines on back are new OEM
Terry, are the pads new? Are you using the stock T-joint? I ran brake lines from caliper directly to the master cylinder using a double banjo. I'm assuming that you have fresh DOT3/4 brake fluid and properly bleed?
...Brian
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tlbranth
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Re: Brake pads

#5

Post by tlbranth »

Stock t-joint. New ss pistons, seals. New dot4 fluid. Pads are what was on the bike when purchased a few years ago. The pads seem to be the weak link here.
Terry
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Oldewing
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Re: Brake pads

#6

Post by Oldewing »

With everything that you have listed about your system, yep, new pads are in order me thinks.

With a new master and SS lines, mine stop in a "useful" distance now, not up to newer bikes, but way better than when it was new.
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Steve81GL1100
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Re: Brake pads

#7

Post by Steve81GL1100 »

+1 on the EBC pads. Replaced my old (3 seasons, 10k miles plenty of meat left) kevlar-organic pads over winter with the EBCs and it made a significant difference. Running new OEM lines, btw. Upgrade to ss is a future project
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tlbranth
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Re: Brake pads

#8

Post by tlbranth »

OK I ordered some semi-sintered EBC pads for the rear to see how they do. I've had good luck with EBC stuff (mostly rotors) so I'm sure this'll do the job. Thanks ev. for your help.
Terry
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Re: Brake pads

#9

Post by jdvorchak »

Personally I stay away from the new designer pads. Kevlar, ceramic etc I leave that to to the race bikes. I find that HH sintered or semi sintered seem to work the best on all of the old bikes and my newer Harley's. Yes they dust but they don't tear up the rotors and they have great initial grab and hold.
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Re: Brake pads

#10

Post by Sidecar Bob »

FWIW, I've been using KMG carbon kevlar pads on both of my bikes for a few years and I like them. They don't seem to have worn the discs noticeably. The same ones fit all calipers on my 'Wing and my 650's front and at $23CAD/18US for 2 pairs they are cheap enough that I keep a few on hand.
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Re: Brake pads

#11

Post by chewy999 »

+1 on using EBC pads, use them on my CB1300 as well. I think as as long as you buy a reputable brand things will be ok, but with brakes (and tyres (tires)), I always try to buy the best I can afford.

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Previous Rides,
1980 CB250N Good to learn on
1981 CX500 good mid range tourer, went to Austria on it!
1983 GL1100C Pride and joy, sold when I bought my 1st house, big mistake
1985 GL650 Silverwing another mistake, horrible bike
1986 CBX550 Good commuter
1989 Suzuki GS750 (1976) cheap and cheerful until a dog ran out in front of me on Xmas Eve, 1991
Current bikes
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Re: Brake pads

#12

Post by gdonlo04 »

Q. In the Clymer's book, it reads to notch the pad if your rotor is solid and does not have holes. This recommendation is for wet stopping and water transfer. What are your thoughts/ experience with notching pads?
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Re: Brake pads

#13

Post by chewy999 »

Wouldn't do it. Just accept that braking takes longer in the wet and rode accordingly. If you start messing around with them, daresay you compromise any warranty you may have. Just my humble opinion.

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Last edited by chewy999 on Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Previous Rides,
1980 CB250N Good to learn on
1981 CX500 good mid range tourer, went to Austria on it!
1983 GL1100C Pride and joy, sold when I bought my 1st house, big mistake
1985 GL650 Silverwing another mistake, horrible bike
1986 CBX550 Good commuter
1989 Suzuki GS750 (1976) cheap and cheerful until a dog ran out in front of me on Xmas Eve, 1991
Current bikes
2010 CB1300 back on a bike after 19 years, two divorces, children grown up etc
1980 GL1100 NOW ON THE ROAD, still use CB1300.
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ericheath
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Re: Brake pads

#14

Post by ericheath »

An older Wingrider told me very early, that to stop these bikes quickly, you had to pull the clutch in. I was complaining that I just didn’t think it would stop fast enough for an emergency stop. I tried it. It makes a huge difference in the stock setup. Huge. I was new to riding at the time and was about to give up on it.

Sintered brakes chew mine to pieces fast.
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Re: Brake pads

#15

Post by Sidecar Bob »

That should be the case for anything with a manual transmission. People that have only ever driven cars and only ones with automatic transmissions get used to the automatic transmission shifting into neutral automatically so they don't think about having to disengage the drive themselves.

When I took the bike license course in '85 we were taught the "push-pull" method: Push down with both feet while pulling in with both hands. For a beginner it removes having to remember which control does what from the equation.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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