Backfire caused by bad coils?

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Wtf_0ver
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#16

Post by Wtf_0ver »

gltriker wrote:Done. tumb2
Cliff what would you recommend instead? If you search my history you'll see the only other thread I've posted being my build thread. I have none of the original switches or anything, just a headlight, taillight and a generic AutoZone turn key style ignition. The bike is absolutely stripped. I thought about wiring it up to just a regular kill switch with some form of starter button but that eliminates any sort of security I might have by using a key. Open to recommendations if they are better suited, was just saying I've used that style for years without issue.
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wingrider
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#17

Post by wingrider »

Wtf_0ver wrote:
wingrider wrote:What bike is this problem on? That might help us as well.

Sorry it's an 80 GL1100 but currently has an 83 swapped in.

Appreciate all the responses I've gotten so far, will definitely report back once I've done some further and more extensive testing. If there's one thing I have trying to track down, it's intermittent electrical issues.
Good to know. Then what I said earlier does not totally apply unless you intend to pick up a C5 ignition system.
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ericheath
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#18

Post by ericheath »

A long shot that hadn’t been mentioned yet is if you still have a dogbone fuse. They have been known to have a hairline crack which can allow power through as it feels like.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
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gltriker
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#19

Post by gltriker »

Time will tell. ;)
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#20

Post by Sidecar Bob »

When you rewired did you replace the main fuse? The original "dogbone" type main fuses on these bikes are notorious for becoming intermittent after years of exposure to the atmosphere (I've heard of a few that looked perfect but disintegrated when touched).
A fuse problem wouldn't be heat related but it could be vibration related and coincidentally showing up after the bike is well warmed up...

BTW: Please add your bike's model & year to your signature so that you won't have to remember to tell us every time and we won't have to keep asking when you forget.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
Wtf_0ver
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#21

Post by Wtf_0ver »

Sidecar Bob wrote:When you rewired did you replace the main fuse? The original "dogbone" type main fuses on these bikes are notorious for becoming intermittent after years of exposure to the atmosphere (I've heard of a few that looked perfect but disintegrated when touched).
A fuse problem wouldn't be heat related but it could be vibration related and coincidentally showing up after the bike is well warmed up...

BTW: Please add your bike's model & year to your signature so that you won't have to remember to tell us every time and we won't have to keep asking when you forget.
Everything has been converted to blade type fuses.

I'll update my signature as requested.
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#22

Post by todd54219 »

Since you all mentioned fuses, I had an issue with one on my 76 wing. It would intermittently shut down then just start right up. I did aa lot of parts changing including testing fuses while still in the fuse block. When I still could not find the problem, I started to remove the fuses to check the fuse block itself and one of the fuses came apart as I removed it. $10 worth of new fuses and the problem disappeared.

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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#23

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Yeah. I always recommend replacing glass cartridge type fuses if you don't know that they have been replaced in the last decade or so and the dogbone main fuse as a matter of course, but he has already done that so it is not likely to be a bad fuse.

Just grasping at straws but is it safe to assume that you don't have a huge, heavy ring of keys? We've all heard the story of the woman whose car shut off whenever she turned right and it was because her keyring was swinging hard enough to turn the keyswitch off......

And it wasn't particularly wet out when this happened, was it? Old spark plug wires (or caps with old boots) have been known to leak enough to make all or part of the engine die in the rain...
But that wouldn't make the headlight flicker.... And neither would a bad battery or a plugged fuel cap or (as has already been mentioned) a coil that stops working when hot.

It has to be something interrupting the current flow to both the ignition and the headlight and I can't think of anything heat related that would cause that to happen. I would start looking at every connection that is common to both the ignition and the headlight in both the positive and ground halves of the circuit for something that is loose...

BTW: Your afterfiring (a "backfire" is when it fires back through the carbs) could be caused by the engine pumping unburned fuel into the exhaust when the ignition cuts out and it igniting from the heat from the exhaust gasses when it cuts back in. I've heard of hooligans doing that on purpose by switching the kill switch off and back on while in gear.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
Wtf_0ver
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#24

Post by Wtf_0ver »

Sidecar Bob wrote:Yeah. I always recommend replacing glass cartridge type fuses if you don't know that they have been replaced in the last decade or so and the dogbone main fuse as a matter of course, but he has already done that so it is not likely to be a bad fuse.

Just grasping at straws but is it safe to assume that you don't have a huge, heavy ring of keys? We've all heard the story of the woman whose car shut off whenever she turned right and it was because her keyring was swinging hard enough to turn the keyswitch off......

And it wasn't particularly wet out when this happened, was it? Old spark plug wires (or caps with old boots) have been known to leak enough to make all or part of the engine die in the rain...
But that wouldn't make the headlight flicker.... And neither would a bad battery or a plugged fuel cap or (as has already been mentioned) a coil that stops working when hot.

It has to be something interrupting the current flow to both the ignition and the headlight and I can't think of anything heat related that would cause that to happen. I would start looking at every connection that is common to both the ignition and the headlight in both the positive and ground halves of the circuit for something that is loose...

BTW: Your afterfiring (a "backfire" is when it fires back through the carbs) could be caused by the engine pumping unburned fuel into the exhaust when the ignition cuts out and it igniting from the heat from the exhaust gasses when it cuts back in. I've heard of hooligans doing that on purpose by switching the kill switch off and back on while in gear.
Funny you mention the keys, like I said im using a generic turn style auto ignition from AutoZone. It's mounted to a welded tab on the side of the frame. Previously I had both the key for the ignition, the key to the gas cap lock and a rubber keychain on it and because it would blow in the wind it caused the key cylinder to wear out and the key fell out one day while riding. Of course the bike kept running because it was on but I couldn't turn it off the whole way before I got home.

I haven't ridden it in the rain at all so it's not that. I'm finally home after being away from work for several days so I'm going to take it out now, get it hot (since that's only when the issue started happening) and see what tests I can do.
Wtf_0ver
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#25

Post by Wtf_0ver »

UPDATES!

Think I found my issue....bad connection.

When i rewired the bike I relocated the battery to the saddlebag with a battery box and a blade style fuse holder mounted right to the box for easy access. I put bullet style disconnects on the wires coming off of the plug on the starter solenoid so if I ever needed to remove the battery and saddlebag I could do so without cutting wires.

The connection for the wire from the starter switch to reg/rec must have been it because I lightly wiggled it and the bike immediately died. Redid the connection and it seems to be solid now.

Going to take it for a long ride just to make sure it's not something else. Thanks again for everyone's help in here!
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Backfire caused by bad coils?

#26

Post by Sidecar Bob »

That'll do it. Good to hear it was something that simple ngwsmilie
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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