1976 GL1 is farting :)
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- ericheath
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
It’s pretty easy to miss some slight contact somewhere in the points housing. The arm of the point set could be touching, or as mentioned previously, the wires can be chafed and making contact.
Another potential spot is the condensers. Some run a separate ground strap to the condenser base. If you could trace which cylinder pair is missing, you could flip the condenser and see if the miss follows to the other cylinder pair.
Another spot to check is the plug-wire resistors. The can get very corroded in the housing of the caps and cause the spark to slow down fighting through the corrosion to change the timing. If you haven’t had them apart, it might be worth a look. Some remove the resistors and replace them with a solid conductor which if not proper length could cause the same.
The wire where it threads into the caps can be corroded as well.
Another potential spot is the condensers. Some run a separate ground strap to the condenser base. If you could trace which cylinder pair is missing, you could flip the condenser and see if the miss follows to the other cylinder pair.
Another spot to check is the plug-wire resistors. The can get very corroded in the housing of the caps and cause the spark to slow down fighting through the corrosion to change the timing. If you haven’t had them apart, it might be worth a look. Some remove the resistors and replace them with a solid conductor which if not proper length could cause the same.
The wire where it threads into the caps can be corroded as well.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I'll make another colortune check.Don R wrote:I'd be willing to bet it's a lean pilot jet. Timing will make it better or worse.
The wires are cracked, you can see the copper underneath but they don't touch the housing.ericheath wrote:It’s pretty easy to miss some slight contact somewhere in the points housing. The arm of the point set could be touching, or as mentioned previously, the wires can be chafed and making contact.
As far as I know only one cylinder was (is) not firing as it should, cylinder #2.ericheath wrote:Another potential spot is the condensers. Some run a separate ground strap to the condenser base. If you could trace which cylinder pair is missing, you could flip the condenser and see if the miss follows to the other cylinder pair.
Wires and plug wires are brand new. I already swapped wires #1 and #2 and the problem did not change side.ericheath wrote:Another spot to check is the plug-wire resistors. The can get very corroded in the housing of the caps and cause the spark to slow down fighting through the corrosion to change the timing. If you haven’t had them apart, it might be worth a look. Some remove the resistors and replace them with a solid conductor which if not proper length could cause the same. The wire where it threads into the caps can be corroded as well.
1976 GL 1000 Jaune sulfure.
- desertrefugee
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I'm kinda late to this party, but doesn't the above statement sort of rule out an ignition problem? If the #2 hole is still the only one misbehaving after the swap, I think you're now looking at carburetion (or valvetrain) issues.Thomas44 wrote: Wires and plug wires are brand new. I already swapped wires #1 and #2 and the problem did not change side.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
- robin1731
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
He stated before the issue did not start until after he did the points/ignition. See post #15.desertrefugee wrote:I'm kinda late to this party, but doesn't the above statement sort of rule out an ignition problem? If the #2 hole is still the only one misbehaving after the swap, I think you're now looking at carburetion (or valvetrain) issues.Thomas44 wrote: Wires and plug wires are brand new. I already swapped wires #1 and #2 and the problem did not change side.
.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
- desertrefugee
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
Ah. Missed that. Still, the plug wire swap with no change in symptom is puzzling if it's an ignition problem. I guess the actual symptom needs to be confirmed - as well as whether it does or does not "change".
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
Any progress?
78 GL 1000, 70 CB750 sandcast, 70 CB836 hot rod, 1124cc 750 dragbike resto project.
You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.
You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.
- dontwantapickle
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
After listening to the videos, a lean pilot circuit is what it sounds like to me too.Don R wrote:I'd be willing to bet it's a lean pilot jet.........
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I've been chasing a similar pop, fart, chug, whatever. I've replaced the fuel pump, filter and hoses. Flushed the gas tank, put on a dyna ignition, 1500 coils and made new wires with new plug caps.
It was warm early in the week and I rode it to the parts store, it ran great but I know it's all an act. When riding season comes it will act up again. I just did the belt tensioners so I'm pulling the carbs again while it's on the lift, I'm really getting quite good at it.
It was warm early in the week and I rode it to the parts store, it ran great but I know it's all an act. When riding season comes it will act up again. I just did the belt tensioners so I'm pulling the carbs again while it's on the lift, I'm really getting quite good at it.
78 GL 1000, 70 CB750 sandcast, 70 CB836 hot rod, 1124cc 750 dragbike resto project.
You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.
You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.
- 77Gowing
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I had a similar problem where the yellow and blue point wires had a bare spot on the grommet where the wires go into my points case. It was intermittent so I ordered a new cable from OEM. Since then I changed to an optical ignition and never looked back.robin1731 wrote:He stated before the issue did not start until after he did the points/ignition. See post #15.desertrefugee wrote:I'm kinda late to this party, but doesn't the above statement sort of rule out an ignition problem? If the #2 hole is still the only one misbehaving after the swap, I think you're now looking at carburetion (or valvetrain) issues.Thomas44 wrote: Wires and plug wires are brand new. I already swapped wires #1 and #2 and the problem did not change side.
.
"Less is More" Anonymous
77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold )
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold )
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I did nothing to fix it and I'll probably won't do anything for the moment.
Sometime "the best is the enemy of the good".
I made a little test ride and it was great (to me).
When I stopped to check the cylinders temperature, they were all the same so no weak cylinder anymore.
I'll ride more and we'll see ...
Sometime "the best is the enemy of the good".
I made a little test ride and it was great (to me).
When I stopped to check the cylinders temperature, they were all the same so no weak cylinder anymore.
I'll ride more and we'll see ...
1976 GL 1000 Jaune sulfure.
- desertrefugee
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
Darn good looking motorcycle. That actually may be the best thing to do. Ride it. They don't like to sit around idle.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
I tried to ride it again and after 5 minutes, I lost both left cylinders.
So the problem was probably not ignition timing related (or I have several problems).
Maybe some kind of intermittent fuel starvation ?
I filled up the tank (it was 1/3 full) and when I started the bike, it ran on 3 cylinders (cylinder #2 was cold).
Don't really know what to do now.
So the problem was probably not ignition timing related (or I have several problems).
Maybe some kind of intermittent fuel starvation ?
I filled up the tank (it was 1/3 full) and when I started the bike, it ran on 3 cylinders (cylinder #2 was cold).
Don't really know what to do now.
1976 GL 1000 Jaune sulfure.
- ericheath
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
When it quit it lost 2-4 which lessens the chance it’s ignition. I believe the fuel path fills carb 3, then 1,2,4.
You could check how much fuel comes out of the bowl on cylinder 2. It could be an intermittent sticky float, but also could be a bad fuel-to-carb oring, or a piece of gunk that has worked its way to the 2-4 side fuel rail.
These bikes will run on the top half of the tank without a working fuel pump. The fact that you picked up cylinder #4 after adding fuel hints towards at least checking the fuel pumps flow, but sounds more like a fuel blockage.
The carb-to-fuel orings can be checked without a full breakdown of the carbs and linkages. Remove the five screws around the plenum, and the two halves will fold open. Then you can access the bolts inside the plenum that hold the carbs. If you replace the carb stays, the piece that connects the carbs and supports the sparkplug wires, the carbs will stay together pretty well with all the linkages intact. Keep an eye on the small piece that connects the choke linkages. It likes to fall out. Once removed you will see the holes from the fuel rail which encircles the plenum. If there’s gunk there, there’s probably some in the carbs too. Since the flow dead ends at cylinder four, I would try air pressure there first to see if it can push it back out the larger opening at the plenum half.
People here have had orings swell up and plug the holes. A deteriorating fuel line from the pump to the carbs can have a piece break off and work its way around also to plug openings.
Perhaps some else here will opine with other checks less invasive first. As I write this, I wonder if just reduced flow from the petcock or the fuel pump couldn’t cause this. It might be worth checking output from the carb side of the pump. A few seconds won’t tell you much. When a fuel line collapses internally, they will slowly fill so that they appear to have plenty of fuel when first removed, but slow to just drips in time. Very much like an old guys prostate- okay that was too much information, but an accurate analogy. If you haven’t done it yet, replacing the fuel lines is a good idea anyways.
You could check how much fuel comes out of the bowl on cylinder 2. It could be an intermittent sticky float, but also could be a bad fuel-to-carb oring, or a piece of gunk that has worked its way to the 2-4 side fuel rail.
These bikes will run on the top half of the tank without a working fuel pump. The fact that you picked up cylinder #4 after adding fuel hints towards at least checking the fuel pumps flow, but sounds more like a fuel blockage.
The carb-to-fuel orings can be checked without a full breakdown of the carbs and linkages. Remove the five screws around the plenum, and the two halves will fold open. Then you can access the bolts inside the plenum that hold the carbs. If you replace the carb stays, the piece that connects the carbs and supports the sparkplug wires, the carbs will stay together pretty well with all the linkages intact. Keep an eye on the small piece that connects the choke linkages. It likes to fall out. Once removed you will see the holes from the fuel rail which encircles the plenum. If there’s gunk there, there’s probably some in the carbs too. Since the flow dead ends at cylinder four, I would try air pressure there first to see if it can push it back out the larger opening at the plenum half.
People here have had orings swell up and plug the holes. A deteriorating fuel line from the pump to the carbs can have a piece break off and work its way around also to plug openings.
Perhaps some else here will opine with other checks less invasive first. As I write this, I wonder if just reduced flow from the petcock or the fuel pump couldn’t cause this. It might be worth checking output from the carb side of the pump. A few seconds won’t tell you much. When a fuel line collapses internally, they will slowly fill so that they appear to have plenty of fuel when first removed, but slow to just drips in time. Very much like an old guys prostate- okay that was too much information, but an accurate analogy. If you haven’t done it yet, replacing the fuel lines is a good idea anyways.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
Thanks for your contribution.
I'll definetly investigate the fuel starvation theory.
I started the bike today and 4 cylinders are there now.
I'll make a road test with my full tank to see if I keep all cylinders.
I'll definetly investigate the fuel starvation theory.
I started the bike today and 4 cylinders are there now.
I'll make a road test with my full tank to see if I keep all cylinders.
1976 GL 1000 Jaune sulfure.
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Re: 1976 GL1 is farting :)
This may sound crazy, but it would not hurt to listen. I had the same symptoms with a CB750 carb farting when cold and popping when warming up. I switched to reserve on the petcock and it cleared right up.
Sometimes it is the very weird stuff that shows up by accident. I was riding in very cold weather and the tank fuel cap was not accessible due to the keyed lock icing up.I was 'certain' that the bike had enough fuel to not need switching to reserve, but the frozen fuel access lock made me less so, so i switched to reserve. I don't know if it was mentioned before, but a plugged tank vent in the gas cap can starve fuel supply as well.
I apologize if this has already been covered, but i do not have time to read the rest of the post.
Sometimes it is the very weird stuff that shows up by accident. I was riding in very cold weather and the tank fuel cap was not accessible due to the keyed lock icing up.I was 'certain' that the bike had enough fuel to not need switching to reserve, but the frozen fuel access lock made me less so, so i switched to reserve. I don't know if it was mentioned before, but a plugged tank vent in the gas cap can starve fuel supply as well.
I apologize if this has already been covered, but i do not have time to read the rest of the post.
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