Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

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odyssey
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Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#1

Post by odyssey »

I am planning to replace the camshaft oil seals on my '76 GL1000. I saw a post that described removing the old seals without removing the camshaft carrier. Someone else suggested loosening it just enough to remove the seals. What would be the best? Do I need to loosen the tappet adjustment screws?
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#2

Post by gltriker »

With no second thoughts about it, I would loosen the capscrews to remove and replace the camshaft oil seals. Especially, to replace a rubber coated seal.

My opinion is....Loosening the tappet adjusting screws is a waste of time.
Unless you need to adjust them, again, or to practice re-adjusting the clearances.

ALWAYS Properly torque an adjuster screw locking nut, or you may be searching the crankcase through the oil strainer screen opening for the backed out components.
Been there....done that. :oops:
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#3

Post by Whiskerfish »

Most of mine I have replaced while doing head refurbs so that was not an issue. The few I have done while everything was assembled I did with the carriers at full torque.
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#4

Post by ericheath »

I've done them both ways. I will say, after checking the lash on mine after loosening the carriers, my valve lash changed quite a bit. However this was likely because I put a torque wrench on them to tighten them and that was the first time I torqued them. My built-in wrist-torque has gotten weak.
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#5

Post by Track T 2411 »

gltriker wrote:
ALWAYS Properly torque an adjuster screw locking nut, or you may be searching the crankcase through the oil strainer screen opening for the backed out components.
Been there....done that. :oops:
May I ask how one goes about torquing the adjuster lock nuts? I have a hard enough time keeping the clearances right while tightening with a wrench and screwdriver...
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#6

Post by gltriker »

Track T 2411 wrote:
gltriker wrote:
ALWAYS Properly torque an adjuster screw locking nut, or you may be searching the crankcase through the oil strainer screen opening for the backed out components.
Been there....done that. :oops:
May I ask how one goes about torquing the adjuster lock nuts? I have a hard enough time keeping the clearances right while tightening with a wrench and screwdriver...
Respectfully, I don't know quite how to answer that query, Track T. :-?
I know on my trike's engine, those adjuster screws, and nuts, will rotate with my fingertips. Barely any perceptible prevailing torque in their respective threads.
Simple answer?
With an inch/lb torque wrench and a good dose of unwavering patience. tumb2
If my aged memory serves me correctly, ~100 inch/lb is the Honda factory service information torque spec.
I discovered, if the specified torque value is exceeded by very much, the threads in the nuts, themselves, yielded first.
Replacement adjuster screws and locking nuts are still available through the OEM Honda parts department.

Done. tumb2
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#7

Post by Gowing »

Am I missing something, cam seals are behind the cam belt sprocket right. Just remove cam belt cover, loosen belt and pull belt off sprocket then remove cam sprocket and pull out cam seal. You don't even remove the valve cover. You don't go near the tappents. Just be real careful pulling the old seal out. I used a drywall screw to get ahold of the seal and scrapped the soft metal around seal, making it harder to seal. Then stuff a new seal in there and reverse procedure.b sure to lube the seal on the cam side to make it last.
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Re: Replacing camshaft oil seals first time...GL1000

#8

Post by odyssey »

Well, I tried the screw method but it didn't work great. It worked nicely in the past with the gear shifter seal.

So I loosened the camshaft carrier bolts and then it was easy to release the seals. I put new ones in and applied Permatex sealant. I made a new gasket to put behind the head shield. I've also made a new gasket to put between the valve assembly and the ignition compartment. It was also a good time to take care of chipped paint on the head shield.

Torqued the camshaft carrier bolts, reinstalled the head shield and the ignition ring. Reinstalled camshaft pulley, applied Loctite and torqued the retaining bolt while holding the pulley with a pipe inserted in one of the holes in the pulley. Made sure that pulley position is the same as before disassembly (TDC1 + 90 deg). Reinstalled belt and torqued tensioner at TDC.

Turned the flywheel to make sure that there are no interference issues. I'll have to check valves before starting the engine, probably in the spring. Overall much easier than I thought. Now I need to replace the seal on the right. Someone applied a bunch of sealant between the head shield and the valve assembly...Can't believe previous owners used a sealant to prevent the oil leak in the ignition compartment instead of replacing the seals...

Thank you for your help!
Past rides:
'72 Vespa Rally 180, Honda Elite 125, Suzuki TU 250, Yamaha XT 600, Suzuki DR 650, Nighthawk 750
Current: '76 GL1000
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