Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

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Fox
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Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#1

Post by Fox »

I know this topic has been discussed many times on this forum but Im still looking for the best most efficient way.
I have the tank out of the bike and with all my other restorations I've used the three step process from KBS Coatings and it has always worked well. However on the Wing I don't see how I can coat the tank with the screen in the bottom. Can someone help me with a link or best way to clean this bad boy and keep it from rusting again.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#2

Post by Whiskerfish »

I took mine to a radiator shop. First thing he did was reach in there with a crow bar and rip out the screens.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#3

Post by Oldewing »

Yep, I am with WF on this, rip them out and never look back.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#4

Post by Track T 2411 »

When I coated mine, I simply blew compressed air through the lines to clear the screens. It worked OK, but didn't totally open them near the bottom. As WF says, the screens are not essential and could be removed.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#5

Post by tomk1960 »

I've used the electrolysis method to clean 4 fuel tanks and am very happy with the results. Effort is minimal - you just need water, washing soda, a 12V source, sacrificial anode, and patience.

I stopped coating tanks. Unless you use a digital boroscope to confirm that every square mm is coated, you could have a void that might cause issues later on down the line. Keep the tank full of fresh gas, use StaBil or whatever fuel stabilizer you prefer, and ride it like you stole it.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#6

Post by RB »

Uhmm best..most efficient..muractic acid/water , the stuff you put in pools, 50/50(wear gloves) with works in minutes..but you have to watch it if you leave it too long it will eat the tank. Also the stronger the mix the faster it works. I put it in give 5 or 10 minutes and dump it out into a big tub..look around and repeat as needed. when you are happy, rinse with lots of water and then blow dry with a hair drier or heat gun..the tank gets hot so wear gloves.

If you coat and use POR15 you can put some in with the tank titled up away from the screens; rotate the tank slowly avoiding the screens..you can do this to all the sides and bottom. To do the top you can put some in with the tank tilted away from the screens then seal the top port and then rotate upside down to get the top of the tank or just roate slowly avoiding spilling any out the port...The key is to add a little at a time so it doesn't pool. Sounds harder than it is to do..takes me about 10 minutes to get one sealed. I have done 5 or 6 tanks this way..all still good. Once done you need to let it dry for at least 2 or 3 days some let them sit for a week..just to be safe. One of their motorcycle kits will do two tanks..less is better when pouring in the sealer you can can always add more but can't take it out..so pour in a little rotate it around and see how much it covers before adding more.

An old write up of mine..

I just did my tank with por15, (http://www.por15.com) seems to be working great. I cleaned the tank out with muriatic acid 80/20 solution very strong. It cleaned out the tank within a few minutes. You have to plug the lines at the fuel cock port. Then release the plugs and let some acid run out to get the inside of the lines. Then put in some baking soda mixed with water and rise it out to stop the acid. Then IMMEDIATELY put in POR's prep solution. It will prepare the metal for the sealer and allow you to take your time in getting in. It has phosphoric acid in it which stabilizes the metal for a day or two..no rust. Then you pour in their sealer, slowly and careful into a part of the tank where it won't hit the screen intakes. If you do it slowly and careful you won't get any on them. Then SLOWLY rotate the tank until you've got it all covered. Again if you do carefully you can avoid any/most contact with the screens. I got the smallest can of both products the stabilizer is reusable. The sealer is not but I only put about 1/3 of the can in and it was still too much. I had to pour some out at the end. The less you can use the better as a deep coat or pooling is not good. I did seal up the fuel sensor hole using the locking ring and 4 layers of rubber. I painted some sealer on the sensor box later.

I would do this first! run your bike off a gas can for tuning etc. while you prepare the tank. You have to let this stuff dry for several days. Again be careful with how much you use, less is more.

The less you have to dump out the better as it's hard to get out because of the lip on the inside of the gas tank. Keep turning the tank until there is none of the sealer running around. If you put the tank down and let it sit for 30 seconds and look in with a flashlight you'll see the pooling if there is any..if there is start turn again or try to dump out the extra.

If you do get some on a screen you can try some compressed air through the fuel lines it may blow off the sealer.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#7

Post by chewy999 »

Electrolysis didn't work for me, long story short, I found the best way was to fill the tank with white vinegar, then soaking the fuel cap in vinegar, as well as the fuel sender. Here is the link for cleaning the fuel sender, although the pictures have been lost!

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=53217&p=572642&hili ... er#p572642

To clean the fuel tubes, I put a thin multi strand cable in a drill and firstly ran it anti clockwise to clear a blockage, and when clear, ran it through clockwise so the cable started to unravel. This was to clean the interior surface of the tube, making sure I didn't hit the screens at the end. Flush it through with vinegar, rinse, and then added a bit of ATF to slosh around to prevent flash rush until the tank is back on the bike and full of fuel.

Worked for me!

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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#8

Post by RB »

I use an old tach or speedo cable to ream the fuel tubes
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#9

Post by scootsx2 »

Whiskerfish wrote:I took mine to a radiator shop. First thing he did was reach in there with a crow bar and rip out the screens.
+1. Took the tank from my CX500 police trike to an industrial radiator shop that also does fuel tanks. Well worth the expense to get it properly cleaned and sealed.

http://www.afftonradiator.com/fuel-tank-repair.php

There is probably a similar outfit in your area.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#10

Post by ericheath »

You asked the best, which elicits opinions. Best with plentiful funds must be a radiator shop. Cheap me used citric acid crystals. Takes time like vinegar but probably is condensed vinegar.

An option that works well for tanks (not for marriages) is to put about a pound of metal objects in the tank, washers, nuts, bolts, bbs, coins , things that aren't sharp. Seal the openings well with plastic and tape. Send the wife away for a couple hours. Roll the tank up in old blankets until it fits in the dryer. Pack the blankets so the tank won't contact the dryer walks. Turn it on cool cycle and let it rip. Ten minutes should knock loose all the flaky loose rust.

Rinse it well and add the cleaning solution or electrode, whatever you decide. Sounds radical, but works really well.
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#11

Post by Fox »

Thanks for all the great feedback. I have a radiator guy in town and I'll see if he can clean it for me. If I try the Muratic acid way, what did you use to " plug up" the sending unit opening while cleaning?
Also, I see one screen in the bottom of the tank. As I read this it sounds like there are a couple of screens? Is that correct?
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#12

Post by RB »

Yes there are two screens one near the front of the tank where the petcock attachment point is right side, the other towards the back of the tank left side. Any rubber/plastic plug will work to plug the holes for the petcock..I used caps from printer ink refill bottles, just right, tapered and the right diameter( I put a small screw in them so they were easy to pull out when I was done.. I think 1/4" drip line hose works to..just fold the end that sticks out and secure it.
98 1500 SE..
99 1500 SE SOLD
97 SE 1500 SOLD
83 SOLD
82 REBUILT sold!!!
81 DAILY RIDER sold her :(((!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!!
81 REBUILT SOLD!!
80 REBUILT SOLD
79 IN BASKET PARTS FOR SALE
79 CLEANED UP AND SOLD
78 REBUILT SOLD
77 REBUILT SOLD
76 SOLD/PARTIAL REBUILD
76 REBUILT AND SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILT SOLD
75 REBUILD SOLD


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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#13

Post by Fox »

Muratic acid was the ticket...thanks!
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Re: Best way to clean a rusty fuel tank out of the frame?

#14

Post by Gc33 »

Whiskerfish wrote:I took mine to a radiator shop. First thing he did was reach in there with a crow bar and rip out the screens.
Sooo...those screens arent required hey...excellent. We dont have Muriatic acid here in Austrakia..so I guess its gonna be Hydrochloric...apparently muriatic is the same but has more impurities in it...
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