STALLING

[gdonlo04]

BIKE WILL START AND RUN ABOVE 2000 RPM. AS LONG AS THRITTLE IS BEING USED. AS SOON AS IT GETS WARM AND I LET IT FREE THROTTLE. BELOW 1000 RMS IT CHOKES OUT AND STALLS.
ALSO WHEN RIDING, ONCE HOT AND SITTING AT A LIGHT WITH CLUTCH HELD IN IT IDLES ABOUT 2500-3000 RMS. AS SOON AS I ENGAGE GEAR SLIGHTLY IDLE DROPS TO NORMAL.

[Track T 2411]

A little history about what has been done and when might help. Also what year?

[robin1731]

A little history about what has been done and when might help. Also what year?

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^. And please stop shouting. Turn the caps lock off.

.

[RB]

Clogged idle circuits, idle set too high, sticking throttle cable, clutch not fully disengaged, choke not operating properly, air leaks, lots of possibilities..like they said more info. needed

[CYBORG]

Non of the wings, don't know which one you have, are designed to run below 1000RPM. Most idle at 1000- 1200 RPM. Check the shop manual for your setting

[gdonlo04]

SORRY FOR THE DELAY. STILL FIGURING OUT HOW TO NAVGATE THIS SITE. 1975 GL 1000. NEW THROTTLE CABLE AFTER THE OTHER ONE SNAPPED. PRIOR TO THIS ISSUE. TESTED THE FUEL PRESSURE AND IT WAS GOOD. REPLACED PETCOCK GASKET PRIOR OT THIS ISSUE , AND THEN CHECKED FOR CLOG ON THE REG AND RESERVE LINE. ALL GOOD. RAN A FLOW TEST INTO A GLASS JAR AND GOOD FLOW. REPLACED ALL THE FUEL LINES FOR I HAD A CUT IN ONE. CHECKED THE FUEL FILTER CLEAN AND NEW.
COMPRESSION IN 1 IS 100, 1 IS 90, 3 IS 100 AND 4 IS 90.

[gdonlo04]

ONE MORE THING. CHOKE IS NOT FUNCTIONING LIKE NORMAL. IT WING BRING BIKE TO 3000 RPM MAX AND THEN DIES.

[gdonlo04]

cap lock off

[Track T 2411]

The compression numbers you have listed are quite low; they should be in the 150-160 range. Did you have the throttle wide open, cold engine, several revolutions? Anyway, if the bike is running, that most likely isn't the main problem. You've eliminated the fuel delivery question for the most part, so next would be a simple test of the ignition. With the bike running, pull each plug wire and check for spark. You should hear a distinct 'snap' as the spark jumps the gap from boot to plug. The engine RPM should also drop, and run poorly. If you have spark on any cylinder but the engine running doesn't change, you've found the affected cylinder, and the problem is most likely carbs. If you have no spark, it's ignition related...

[OhioBill]

Visit Mike Nixon's website and read the white paper article on Kiehin adjusting the idle circuit. Check page 25. He suggests that a properly adjusted idle screw will be between 2 to 3 turns out. Lots of good reading on the website.

[Chang_G_Wing]

Carbs! it's a fun and great learning experience even if it's not the issue, just saying.

[OhioBill]

I posted Mike Nixon's solution because I was having the same problem that gdonio04 posted. It worked for me.

[gdonlo04]

I ran the bike last night and pulled each plug wire independently. Yes, I head the snapping. Funny thing. As soon as I leaned the bike down left, to place it on the stand, it immediately stalled. fuel tank petcock is on the left. I wonder if it is starving for fuel due to something in the tank blocking the flow when I lean it over to the left. I could not find mike Nixon solution. how do I find that?

[Track T 2411]

I ran the bike last night and pulled each plug wire independently. Yes, I head the snapping. Funny thing. As soon as I leaned the bike down left, to place it on the stand, it immediately stalled. fuel tank petcock is on the left. I wonder if it is starving for fuel due to something in the tank blocking the flow when I lean it over to the left. I could not find mike Nixon solution. how do I find that?

Did you notice any difference in how the engine was running when you pulled each plug? Some change more than others?
Here's the link to Mike Nixon's site. http://www.motorcycleproject.com

[gdonlo04]

I did notice that #1 reved higher when I pulled the plug wire away and then put it back on. not any diff in the other wires. . I will read the link . thanks